Queensland Fruit Fly Prevention and Control for Home Gardeners
Queensland fruit fly (QFF) has become one of the most challenging pests facing Australian gardeners. In a recent Sustainable Gardening Australia masterclass, Bronwyn Cole, Queensland Fruit Fly Prevention and Awareness Project Coordinator with Agribusiness Yarra Valley, shared practical strategies for understanding, managing and reducing fruit fly impacts using an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach.
The key message was simple: prevention is far easier, cheaper and more effective than trying to control an established fruit fly population.
What is Queensland Fruit Fly?
Queensland fruit fly (Bactrocera tryoni) is a native Australian insect 
that attacks more than 100 types of fruits and vegetables. While traditionallyassociated with warmer regions, it has spread further south and is now a significant concern in many parts of Victoria.
Adult fruit flies are approximately 7-8 mm long with distinctive yellow markings and a reddish-brown body. However, most gardeners never see the adult insect. Instead, they discover the creamy white larvae feeding inside fruit, causing it to rot from within.
Understanding the Life Cycle
Successful management starts with understanding the fruit fly life cycle:
- Adult females lay eggs beneath the skin of ripening fruit.
- Eggs hatch into larvae that feed inside the fruit.
- The damaged fruit often ripens prematurely and falls to the ground.
- Larvae exit the fruit and pupate in soil, mulch, compost or sheltered crevices.
- Adult flies emerge, mature, mate and begin the cycle again.
During warm weather, the entire cycle can take as little as four weeks, allowing populations to increase rapidly.
Why Prevention Matters
Bronwyn highlighted the importance of acting before fruit fly populations build up. Once fruit fly establishes itself in an area, complete eradication is extremely difficult.
Warm, humid conditions favour fruit fly activity, while unmanaged fruit trees, fallen fruit, community plantings and neglected gardens can all provide breeding sites. A single infested fruit left on the ground can contribute to the next generation.
The most effective strategy is to prevent fruit fly from completing its life cycle.
Host Plants: It’s Not Just Fruit Trees
Many gardeners are surprised by how many plants Queensland fruit fly can attack.
Common hosts include:
- Apples
- Pears
- Peaches
- Apricots
- Plums
- Cherries
- Citrus
- Tomatoes
- Capsicums
- Chillies
- Passionfruit
- Loquats
- Strawberries
In fact, Bronwyn joked that it is easier to list what fruit fly doesn’t attack than what it does.
The Power of Good Garden Hygiene
According to Bronwyn, hygiene is one of the most effective fruit fly control tools available.
Good hygiene includes:
- Picking fruit before it falls.
- Removing damaged or infested fruit promptly.
- Collecting fallen fruit regularly.
- Never leaving suspect fruit in compost bins.
- Freezing, boiling or otherwise destroying infested fruit before disposal.
- Keeping fruit trees pruned and manageable.
The goal is to break the fruit fly life cycle before larvae can reach the soil and develop into adults.
Using Traps Effectively
Traps are excellent monitoring tools but should not be relied upon as the sole control method.
Different traps target different stages of the fruit fly population:
Male Attractant Traps
These use specialised pheromone attractants and primarily catch young male flies.
- Attract sexually active male Queensland fruit flies.
- Long attraction range (up to about 200 m).
- Very little bycatch (other insects).
Protein Traps
These attract hungry, developing adult flies, particularly females seeking protein before reproduction.
- Attract hungry adult flies, particularly females building up protein before breeding.
- Shorter attraction range (about 20 m).
Fruit-Scented Traps
These attract females searching for suitable fruit in which to lay eggs.
- Attract females looking for places to lay eggs.
- Useful for detecting breeding pressure around fruiting trees.
Bronwyn recommends using a combination of trap types to better understand what is happening in your garden and detect infestations early.
Fruit Fly Baits
Protein baits are designed to attract adult fruit flies before they lay eggs.
For best results:
- Begin applications 6 to 8 weeks before harvest.
- Reapply weekly.
- Reapply after rain if necessary.
- Continue for several weeks after harvest.
Baits work best as part of a broader management strategy rather than as a standalone solution. Download fact sheet for more details.
Chooks: An Unexpected Ally
One of the most popular discussions during the session was the role of chickens.
Chooks can significantly reduce fruit fly numbers by:
- Scratching through soil.
- Eating larvae and pupae.
- Cleaning up fallen fruit.
- Reducing long grass and shelter areas.
While they won’t eliminate every fruit fly, they can become a valuable part of an integrated management approach.
Why Netting is the Gold Standard
If there was one recommendation Bronwyn strongly endorsed, it was netting.
Fine insect exclusion netting:
- Creates a physical barrier.
- Prevents egg-laying.
- Reduces reliance on chemicals.
- Protects fruit from other pests as well.
For effective fruit fly exclusion:
- Use mesh with openings no larger than 2 mm x 2 mm.
- Ensure netting does not touch the fruit.
- Install after pollination and fruit set.
- Seal gaps carefully.
Although there is an upfront cost, netting is reusable, long-lasting and one of the most reliable solutions available to home gardeners.
Area-Wide Management Works Best
One important theme throughout the presentation was that fruit fly management works best when communities work together.
Fruit fly does not recognise property boundaries. A neglected backyard tree, roadside planting or unmanaged fruit source can undermine the efforts of nearby gardeners.
Communities can strengthen fruit fly management by:
- Sharing information.
- Reporting infestations.
- Removing unmanaged host plants.
- Coordinating trapping programs.
- Supporting neighbours who may need assistance managing fruit trees.
Key Takeaways
Queensland fruit fly is unlikely to disappear, but gardeners can dramatically reduce damage by adopting an integrated approach.
The most effective management toolkit includes:
✅ Early monitoring with traps
✅ Good garden hygiene
✅ Prompt removal of fallen fruit
✅ Strategic use of protein baits
✅ Netting susceptible crops
✅ Community-wide action and awareness
As Bronwyn concluded, prevention consistently delivers the greatest return on investment. The earlier gardeners act, the easier and more successful fruit fly management becomes.
For sustainable, long-term control, focus on prevention, combine multiple management tools, and work with your neighbours and community wherever possible.
Designing with Herbs and Edible Flowers
Herbs and edible flowers are 
versatile plants. They bring colour, texture, fragrance and seasonal interest to the garden while providing fresh ingredients for the kitchen.
Contrary to popular belief, they don't require a dedicated herb patch or productive garden bed to thrive. Many can be woven through ornamental borders, planted amongst shrubs and perennials, or grown in pots to make the most of every available space.
Why Grow Herbs and Edible Flowers?
While herbs and edible flowers add colour, texture and scent to the garden, they're also incredibly useful. They can:
- Enhance meals with fresh flavours and added nutrition
- Attract pollinators and beneficial insects
- Support companion planting and natural pest control
- Accelerate compost decomposition
- Provide ingredients for teas,
oils, vinegars and garnishes - Save money.
A potted herb plant often costs less than a supermarket bunch, and can keep producing for months or even years so you can harvest what you need when you need it. Growing your own also reduces food miles, packaging and the environmental impacts associated with transporting store-bought produce.
Understanding Your Garden's Microclimates
Microclimates are small areas within your garden that differ in sun, wind, moisture and temperature. These conditions determine which herbs and flowers will perform best.
Many herbs naturally fall into a few broad categories:
Dry, Full Sun
Perfect for Mediterranean-style herbs such as:
- Rosemary
- Thyme
- Sage
- Oregano
- Marjoram
These plants tolerate drought, poor soils and hot conditions once established.
Moist, Part Shade
Ideal for leafy herbs that appreciate protection from harsh afternoon sun, including:
- Parsley
- Chervil
- Comfrey
- Bergamot
Containers and Courtyards
Many herbs thrive in pots, making them perfect for balconies, patios and small-space gardens. Lavender, sage, basil and thyme all adapt well to container growing with regular watering and feeding.
The Beauty of Edible Flowers
Edible flowers are one of gardening's most overlooked treasures.
From vibrant nasturtiums to delicate 
violets and heartsease, they provide colour in the garden and excitement in the kitchen. They can be used in:
- Salads
- Cakes and desserts
- Herbal teas
- Vinegars and cordials
- Ice cubes and drinks
- Honeys and jellies
Borage, with its brilliant blue flowers and cucumber-like flavour, is particularly popular for summer drinks. Lavender flowers can flavour teas and baked treats, while violets add elegance to desserts and cocktails.
Always ensure flowers are correctly identified and confirmed as edible before consumption.
Design Meets Productivity
The most successful edible landscapes balance beauty and function.
Consider layering plants with different shapes, colours and textures: 
- Upright rosemary and lavender for structure
- Soft mounding oregano and marjoram
- Bright nasturtiums spilling over pathways
- Seasonal edible flowers for colour bursts
- Scented herbs near seating areas
Not only will this approach create visual appeal, but many herbs also attract pollinators and beneficial insects that support your entire garden ecosystem. Dill, fennel, lavender and rosemary are all known for attracting helpful insects.
The best gardens don't just feed the eyes — they feed the whole household, and provide food and habitat for birds, bees and other beneficial wildlife.
Looking for Inspiration?
If you'd like to learn how to create a garden that is both beautiful and delicious, join Sustainable Gardening Australia's upcoming masterclass:
Good Looking Gardens to Tickle Your Tastebuds
This practical session explores how to combine ornamental design principles with edible plants to create productive gardens that look beautiful year-round. You'll discover how to select the right herbs and edible flowers, position them for maximum impact, and design spaces that deliver harvests alongside visual appeal.
Whether you're working with a backyard, courtyard or balcony, you'll leave with ideas to transform your garden into a space that's as rewarding to eat from as it is to admire.
Raingardens
Water plays a vital role in every garden, yet in urban environments we often treat rain as a problem rather than a resource. Join Sustainable Gardening Australia for a practical and engaging workshop exploring how water moves through natural and built landscapes, why stormwater matters, and how home gardeners can respond to a drying and warming climate. This session will unpack the links between rainfall, runoff, waterways and garden health, while showing how a simple garden feature can help slow water down, improve infiltration and make better use of every drop.
In this workshop you will learn about raingardens: what they are, how they work, and how they can be used to capture, filter and support the reuse of stormwater at home. Participants will learn about different raingarden types, how to choose a suitable location, key design and safety considerations, plant selection for wet and dry conditions, and the basic steps involved in planning, building, planting and maintaining a raingarden.
Topics Covered
- Why water matters in the garden and why accessible fresh water is limited
- The water cycle and how climate change is affecting rainfall patterns
- Stormwater in the urban environment: runoff, pollution and impacts on waterways
- The “slow the flow” approach to managing water more naturally
- What raingardens are and how they capture, slow and filter runoff
- Different types of raingardens, including infiltration, lined and above-ground systems
- How to choose a suitable site and size for a raingarden
- Key design, overflow and stormwater safety considerations
- Selecting soil media and plants for different raingarden zones
- The basics of planning, building, planting and maintaining a raingarden
Growing and Eating Bushfoods
Australian native plants aren’t just beautiful and resilient — many are also delicious. From refreshing herbal drinks to savoury bakes and unique desserts, your garden can offer surprising flavours year-round.
Better still, many native edibles are perennials, and that matters more than you might realise. Unlike classic annual veggies and flowers that need replanting each season, perennials are long-lived, deep-rooted, and built tough.
Because they stay in the ground year after year, perennial natives reduce digging, preserve soil structure, strengthen fungal networks, and retain moisture more effectively. In other words: less tilling, more life underground.
In a changing climate, what we grow — and how we grow it — is growing with resilience. Many Australian native plants offer:
- Drought tolerance once established
- Adaptation to local soils and conditions
- Habitat and food for wildlife
- Low maintenance gardening
- Unique, distinctly Australian flavours
- Long-lived perennial growth that builds soil and garden stability
More reasons to grow edible native plants
Growing bushfoods isn’t just about what thrives in our climate; it’s about reconnecting with uniquely Australian flavours and deepening your relationship with the garden. The same native plants that support pollinators, withstand tough conditions, and build healthy ecosystems can also bring something completely new to your kitchen—zesty, earthy, aromatic, and often surprisingly versatile. Ingredients like finger lime, warrigal greens, lemon myrtle, and saltbush are packed with flavour and you don’t need to be a chef to start experimenting
Warrigal greens
Tetragonia tetragonioides (also known as native spinach) is a hardy, fast-growing groundcover that earns its place in any edible garden.
Why grow it?
- Handles heat, drought, and even light frost
- Spreads easily, suppressing weeds
- Reliable leafy green alternative
Warrigal greens can be used in:
- Savoury breads
- Tarts and quiches
- Omelettes and stir-fries
Important: Leaves must be blanched before eating to reduce oxalates. Boil for a few minutes, then discard the water.
Simple idea: Add blanched leaves and grated cheese to bread dough or savoury muffins for a nutrient-rich twist.
Native River Mint
Sometimes the toughest plants are also the most generous. Mentha australis (Native River Mint) is a flavoursome bushfood, insect-repellent, and medicinal herb that keeps giving year after year.
Why grow it?
- Loves moisture and shade, but also tolerates dry, sunny spots
- Flexible and perennial — no need for constant replanting
- Builds soil, supports biodiversity, and quietly stabilises your garden
Use it in teas, sauces, or as a fresh garnish. Its resilient perennial nature means it will flavour your garden for many seasons with minimal effort.
Native hibiscus
Native hibiscus species, including Hibiscus heterophyllus and its hybrids, produce beautiful flowers that can be turned into vibrant preserves.
Why grow it?
- Attractive flowering plant
- Edible petals with a tangy, berry-like flavour
- Great for value-adding (jams, syrups, desserts)
Simple dessert idea:
- Serve native hibiscus jam on toast or crackers
- Or drizzle a homemade syrup (like lemon myrtle syrup) over ice cream
Syrups are especially useful as they allow you to enjoy seasonal flavours long after harvest.
Planning your edible native garden
When choosing what to grow, think beyond single-purpose plants. Look for species that:
- Provide food and habitat
- Suit your local climate
- Can be used in multiple ways
Examples:
- Lemon myrtle → drink, flavouring, fragrance
- Warrigal greens → groundcover + food
- Native hibiscus → ornamental + edible
- Native River Mint → tea, garnish, insect repellent
Even a small garden or balcony can support a productive mix.
A more connected way to garden
Growing edible native plants adds another layer to your gardening experience. It’s not just about how your garden looks — but how it smells, tastes, and supports life around you.
Stepping outside to pick fresh leaves for tea or harvest greens for dinner creates a deeper connection to place, season, and landscape. And because many natives are perennial, your garden keeps giving — building soil, supporting biodiversity, and quietly creating stability year after year.
Adapted from an article originally shared by Colleen Keena.
Biochar for Climate-Resilient Gardening
Introduction
As Australian gardeners, we’re all feeling the effects of a changing climate, hotter summers, heavier downpours, and longer dry spells. Building resilient, living soils is one of the most powerful ways we can adapt.
One tool gaining attention from both scientists and gardeners is biochar, a form of charcoal made from organic material that can transform the way soils hold water, nutrients and carbon.
What is biochar?
Biochar is created when plant or organic matter (like woodchips, crop residues, or garden waste) is heated in a low-oxygen environment, a process known as pyrolysis.
Unlike ordinary charcoal, biochar is intended for soil. Its tiny pores and high surface area act like a sponge, improving soil structure and creating homes for beneficial microbes.
When added to soil, quality biochar can:
● Increase water-holding capacity and reduce watering frequency
● Improve nutrient retention and reduce leaching
● Support soil life and root development
● Store stable carbon for hundreds of years
Biochar Builds Drought-Resilient Soils
In sandy or degraded soils, biochar acts like a miniature water tank, absorbing and slowly releasing moisture back to plant roots. Trials in NSW and QLD have shown that biochar-amended soils can hold 20–30% more plant-available water, while improving aeration in heavier clays. When mixed with compost or organic fertilisers, it enhances microbial activity and keeps nutrients cycling even under heat or moisture stress.
Turning Waste into a Climate Solution
Every tonne of organic matter that decomposes or burns releases CO₂ back into the air.
By instead carbonising that waste into biochar and returning it to soil, gardeners create a carbon-negative cycle, locking carbon away while enriching their garden beds.
Biochar production can be scaled from home-made “Kon-Tiki” kilns or small pyrolysis units through to community composting hubs. Using local residues such as prunings, sawdust, or nutshells keeps carbon in the region and reduces landfill methane.
How to Use Biochar in Your Garden
- Charge it first: Mix biochar with compost, worm castings or liquid fertiliser for 1–2 weeks before applying. This allows the pores to absorb nutrients and microbes.
- Blend, don’t bury: Mix 5–10% biochar by volume into soil or potting mixes (roughly one part in ten).
- Plant normally: Water in well and mulch as usual. You may notice improved soil moisture and plant health over the following months.
Think long-term: Biochar doesn’t disappear, it keeps improving soil year after year.
Biochar and Climate-Positive Gardening
By using biochar, gardeners can:
- / Sequester up to 3 tonnes of CO₂-equivalent per tonne of char applied
- / Reduce fertiliser and water use
- / Improve soil biodiversity
- / Support circular economies by transforming local waste into long-lived carbon stores
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In this way, biochar isn’t just good for your garden, it’s good for the planet.
Choosing Sustainable Biochar
Look for:
- / Australian-made biochar produced under clean, low-emission conditions
- / Analysis that meets the ANZ Biochar Industry Group’s Code of Practice
- / Clear feedstock disclosure (e.g. forestry residues, crop wastes)
- / Moderate pH (6–9) and low ash (<20%) for general horticultural use
-
Article by Don Coyne – Founder, Byron Biochar
Superfoods From Around the World
Many of the foods we now consider everyday staples were once unfamiliar on Australian tables. Grapes, pasta, olives, and tomatoes didn’t always belong here—they were introduced by migrants, shaping the flavours, diets, and gardens we know today.
Now, a new generation of culturally diverse superfoods is finding its way into our gardens. From leafy greens to roots, grains, and aromatic herbs, these plants are more than just nutritious—they carry fascinating stories of heritage, resilience, and global culinary traditions.
Why Your Garden Should Go Global
These crops aren’t just exotic additions—they’re power-packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that can boost your health and diversify your meals. Some, like amaranth or African leafy vegetables, are drought- and heat-tolerant, making them ideal for Australian gardens in the face of climate extremes. Others, such as bitter melon and taro, bring unique flavours that transform everyday cooking.
Gardening them isn’t only about food—it’s about connecting with history, culture, and the ingenuity of plants that have thrived in other parts of the world for centuries. Many of these superfoods are also incredibly rewarding to grow, offering abundant harvests for your kitchen while supporting biodiversity and sustainable gardening practices.
Global Superfoods for Australian Gardens
Chili Peppers & Bitter Melon
Introduced through Asian and Latin American migration, these two crops bring flavour, spice, and traditional healing to Australian gardens.
- Chili peppers (Capsicum spp.) spread globally after originating in Central and South America. Beyond heat, they contain capsaicin—linked to metabolism, circulation, and pain relief in traditional medicine.
- Bitter melon (Momordica
charantia), a staple in many Asian and African cuisines, is known for its distinctive bitterness and has long been valued for balancing blood sugar and supporting digestion.
In the garden, both love full sun, warmth, and regular feeding—making them perfect summer crops for gardeners seeking bold flavours and functional foods.
Okra & Cassava
Both okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) and cassava (Manihot esculenta) are deeply rooted in African and Latin American food traditions, celebrated for their ability to thrive in challenging conditions.
- Okra produces delicate
flowers and pods rich in fibre, vitamin C, and antioxidants. It’s a staple in gumbo, curries, and stews, loved for its thickening qualities. - Cassava, a drought-tolerant root crop, is a cornerstone of food security in tropical regions. Its starchy tubers can be processed into flour, chips, or tapioca.
In Australia’s subtropical and tropical zones, these crops offer climate-resilient options for gardeners seeking hardy, productive plants that can withstand heat and low rainfall.
Amaranth & Moringa
Revered for their exceptional nutritional value, amaranth (Amaranthus spp.) and moringa (Moringa oleifera) have fed and healed communities for millennia.
- Amaranth provides both
edible leaves and high-protein seeds rich in iron, calcium, and lysine. Once a sacred crop of the Aztecs, it’s now valued as a modern “supergrain.” - Moringa, often called the Tree of Life, is native to India and Africa. Its leaves, pods, and seeds are packed with vitamins and antioxidants. Traditionally, it’s used to support immune health and reduce inflammation.
These plants thrive in warm, sunny climates with moderate watering, offering both food security and a nutritional boost in regions facing climate extremes.
Each of these crops tells a story—of migration, adaptation, and cultural resilience. Together, they offer a glimpse of what’s possible when we grow beyond the familiar and embrace the rich diversity of global food plants suited to Australian conditions.
And this is just a glimpse. Around the world, thousands of edible and medicinal plants are being rediscovered for their ability to nourish people and landscapes alike.
Further reading: How to get creative with growing food, even in the cooler months
Nest Boxes: A Guide to Using Them in Your Garden
As Australia’s natural tree hollows continue to disappear with the loss of mature and remnant trees, artificial nest boxes can help to help fill the habitat gap for wildlife. Nest boxes can provide critical shelter and nesting sites for many of our native hollow-dependent species. But while the boxes themselves may seem simple, they must be thoughtfully designed, correctly placed, and monitored. This careful approach will ensure they’re genuinely beneficial to wildlife.
Why Use Nest Boxes?
Many Australian species, including parrots, owls, gliders, possums and microbats, depend on tree hollows for nesting and shelter. Natural tree hollows, however, can take more than 100 years to form. This means they are increasingly rare in urban environments and recently revegetated areas. For instance, if brushtail possums are finding their way into your roof, that’s an ‘observed need’ that they’re short on options for shelter in your garden. A nest box may provide a suitable alternative.
The first step is to understand which species frequent your area and whether they actually use hollows. Some birds, like the Eastern Spinebill, build cup nests and won’t use a box at all. Others, like the Gang-Gang Cockatoo, may visit your yard at some times of the year, but travel to breed elsewhere. It’s also worth considering which species are already thriving (eg. larger bird species) and which may need a little more help. So observe what’s already in your garden or local area, do a little research to confirm which species use hollows, and go from there.
While nest boxes may seem like a ‘quick fix’ for wildlife, providing other resources – food, water and shelter – is equally important. For example, to attract birds to your garden plant so it has a diverse mix of trees, shrubs, grasses and groundcovers. Introducing elements such as bird baths, ponds, logs, rocks and mulch will go a long way to making your garden inviting to local fauna. Controlling pets is also important; cats in particular pose a real danger to urban wildlife.
Nest Box Design: Mimicking Nature
Different animal species have different needs, and a one-size-fits-all nest box design simply doesn’t work. As an extreme example, a Spotted Pardalote and a Powerful Owl are both hollow-nesters but require vastly different spaces due to their size and nesting preferences. Some animals like a landing spot outside the box, while others need some grooves on the walls to help them enter or perch inside. Others need a baffle at the entrance or divider inside the box to deter predators.
Do some research (see the links below) to match the size, shape and other features of the nest box to the species you’re trying to attract. Having said this, there are overarching design and construction principles that apply to all nest boxes. When constructing or choosing a nest box, consider the following:
- Material: Plywood (12mm) is commonly used, as it’s lightweight and an FSC ply is more sustainable than hardwood. In areas with extreme weather, opt for hardwood or marine ply for better insulation. Avoid treated pine, chipboard, form ply, or any varnished wood as these can be toxic to wildlife.
- Colour: Painting the outside of the box will increase its lifespan and also help reflect heat. Use a low-VOC, water-based paint. Many nest boxes were previously painted dark green to help them blend in with the environment. But light grey is now preferred as it helps reflect heat and prevent overheating, a major risk for boxes in Australian summers.
- Roof: A slanted, oversized, hinged roof prevents water pooling and offers easy access for monitoring or cleaning. The roof should be closed with a secure latch or screw (possums have good dexterity and have been known to learn how to open basic hook closures).
- Ventilation and Drainage: Small holes in the base provide drainage when needed. In warm climates, adding some vertical slots near the top of the box can increase airflow and help to avoid overheating.
- Substrate: Add a base layer of potting mix (without fertiliser added) or untreated sawdust, especially in bird boxes, to mimic natural nest conditions.
It's also possible to use mature trees that would otherwise be removed to create natural hollows for wildlife.
Positioning Nest Boxes
Trees are the ideal placement for nest boxes, with native trees preferred. Avoid toxic species (like avocado for some wildlife) and deciduous trees that leave animals exposed during winter.
Here are key guidelines for placement:
- Height: Minimum 3 metres above the ground; aim for 5 metres where possible – though put your own safety first!
- Orientation: East-facing is ideal to catch the morning sun and avoid overheating in the afternoon.
- Spacing: 20 metres apart is a good rule of thumb to avoid territorial disputes. Microbats tend to move from box to box depending on the weather, and their boxes can be clustered to give them nesting options. Brushtail possums need solitary boxes.
- Avoid Mixing Species: Don’t place predator and prey boxes (e.g. possums near parrots) in close proximity or try to cater to too many species. You don’t want to create an ecological trap for the animals you’re trying to help.
Installation Methods
There are two main approaches:
- Direct Attachment: Bolting the box securely to a backing board and/or directly to a tree. Some designs allow the box to be swivelled on the backing board. This method is stable but does involve screwing directly into the tree trunk.
- Strapping: Non-invasive and adjustable strapping such as the Habisure system or using ropes or a piece of garden hose. This allows movement as the tree grows, but requires regular maintenance to avoid ringbarking, shifting and replacement of fixings when required.
Choose the method that best suits your location, tree type, and ability to monitor the box. Juggling a box and tools while working at height is difficult, so make installation a two-person job and prioritise your own safety.
Monitoring and Maintenance
Regular monitoring of the nest box is crucial but can generally be done from the ground. Of course you want to see if anything has occupied the box, but also to detect issues such as invasive European honeybees, which can colonise empty boxes (a simple carpet square attached to the underside of the roof can deter bees from attaching combs).
Passive monitoring methods
- Stag watches: Observe the box around sunset to see if any nocturnal mammals emerge.
- Red-light torches: These are less disruptive to nocturnal animals.
- Cameras: Use nest box cameras, GoPros, or phones on a selfie stick to look inside without disturbing the occupants.
Avoid disturbing boxes during breeding season, particularly for birds. Disturbance may lead to nest abandonment.
Cleaning and maintenance
Keep an eye on the nest box to make sure it’s securely fastened to the tree without causing damage. Cleaning nest boxes isn’t essential, but if you are able to access the box fairly easily it’s worth doing every so often:
- Bird boxes: Clean annually after chicks have fledged (late spring to summer).
- Mammal boxes: These are harder to clean due to their year-round use. Observe the entrance around dusk and if the box appears to be unused for two weeks, it's generally safe to clean.
Use a mild vinegar solution or gentle unscented soap, rinse well, and let the box dry in the sun before reinstalling.
If your garden includes a suitable tree, nest boxes can be a useful habitat element. Keep them clean, safe, and species-appropriate, and your garden could become a vital lifeline for local wildlife.
Watch the Nesting Boxes webinar recording with Jessica Kelley here
Read more about nest boxes from SGA here.
Resources
- La Trobe wildlife's range of flatpack nesting boxes as well as nest box FAQs.
- Nest Box Tales, a blog that brings together nest box resources including species-specific instructions.
- Birds in Backyards nest box plans.
- Backyard Buddies build a nest box instructions.
- Hollow Log Homes Habisure System
- Environment Victoria Nest Box guide
Red Imported Fire Ants
Red imported fire ants (Solenopsis invicta) are a highly invasive species of ant native to South America. Unlike other ants, which can be helpful decomposers and seed storers in our gardens, these small, reddish-brown ants are notorious for their aggressive behaviour and painful stings. First detected in Australia in Brisbane in February 2001, red imported fire ants likely arrived via shipping containers from the United States. Since then, they have spread across parts of southeast Queensland and northern New South Wales, posing serious threats to biodiversity, agriculture and public health.
Why Are Fire Ants a Problem?
Fire ants are more than just a nuisance; they are considered a ‘super pest’ and one of the worst invasive species globally. Their stings, said to resemble a burn, can cause painful pustules and, in rare cases, life-threatening allergic reactions or death. The ants’ presence can also force the closure of public spaces such as playgrounds and seriously disrupt our outdoor lifestyles, making BBQs, picnics and gardening unpleasant and risky.
Environmentally, the presence of red imported fire ants has a negative effect on native wildlife. When a nest is disturbed the ants swarm and attack on mass. Slow-moving animals including frogs, reptiles, koalas, echidnas and turtles are at particular risk. The threat in Australia is significant, as it is estimated that 95% of Australia’s land mass could provide suitable habitat for the pest.
How Do Red Imported Fire Ants Spread?
Fire ants spread through both natural and human-assisted means:
- Human transport: Soil, mulch, potted plants and machinery can unknowingly carry ants or queens to new locations.
- Nuptial flight: Fertile males and females are winged and can fly up to 5 km to establish new colonies. The flights usually occur after rain.
- Rafting: Fire ants can float on floodwaters, allowing them to travel and colonise new areas following heavy rain and flooding.
This mobility makes containment extremely challenging, especially in urban and peri-urban environments.
How to Identify Fire Ant Nests
Fire ant nests are typically found in open, sunny areas such as lawns, paddocks and on roadsides. Key features of the nests include:
- They are dome-shaped mounds up to 40 cm high.
- The nests have a ‘messy’ structure with no visible entry or exit holes (unlike the nests of other species of ants).
- The mounds often appear after rainfall or irrigation as the ants build them up to protect the queen.
Disturbing a mound can trigger a mass swarm of aggressive ants, so taking care when trying to identify the nests is essential.
How to Identify Red Imported Fire Ants
Red imported fire ants vary in size from 2 to 6 mm within a single colony, a unique trait among ant species. They have:
- copper-brown heads and bodies, with darker abdomens;
- two prominent nodes between the thorax and abdomen;
- aggressive behaviour, with ants swarming on mass and stinging rapidly when disturbed.
Their sting causes a burning sensation, likened to a burn, followed by white pustules that can become infected if broken.
Preventative Actions to Stop the Spread
Preventing fire ant spread requires both community awareness and responsible gardening practices. Under the Queensland biosecurity act, all Queenslanders have an obligation to make sure they do not spread fire ants. Resources are available for businesses who handle or transport soil, mulch and plant material.
Some actions that gardeners can take to help control the spread of red fire ants:
- Be aware of the current spread of imported red fire ants in Australia, and the fire ant suppression area.
- Inspect soil, mulch and plants before moving them between properties or when they arrive in your garden.
- Avoid disturbing suspected mounds.
- Seal cracks and crevices in buildings to prevent indoor nesting.
- Use targeted bait treatments rather than broad-spectrum pesticides to protect native ants; home treatment kits are available for home gardeners within the fire ant suppression area.
- Report sightings promptly.
What to Do If You Detect Red Imported Fire Ants
If you find a suspected red imported fire ant nest:
- Do not disturb the nest.
- Take clear photos or videos from a safe distance.
- Report immediately via the National Fire Ant Eradication Program:
- Call 13 22 68 (132 ANT).
- Submit a report online at fireants.org.au
Authorities will assess your report and may send a treatment kit or dispatch officers to manage the infestation. Prompt reporting helps prevent further spread and supports national eradication efforts.
Red imported fire ants are a formidable threat, and it will take government, industry and community vigilance to protect our gardens and wider environment from their effects.
Resources
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHxjEJURSW0
Photo credits: National Fire Ant Eradication Program
How to Create a Habitat Garden Video 101
Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series
Part 5: How to Create a Habitat Garden
Our gardens can be more than just beautiful spaces — they can provide vital refuge for wildlife. As natural habitats shrink and fragment, even small backyards and balconies can become stepping stones that help animals survive and thrive. Habitat gardening not only supports biodiversity but also creates a richer, more resilient garden for you to enjoy.
Topics Covered:
How to design a garden that provides food, water, shelter, and nesting sites
The importance of soil health and indigenous plants in supporting wildlife
Simple features that attract birds, insects, and pollinators
How habitat gardens connect urban areas to larger ecosystems
Climate Change Is Already in Our Gardens: What Australian Gardeners Are Telling Us
As the climate changes, so too must our gardens — and the gardeners who tend them. At Sustainable Gardening Australia, we recently surveyed gardeners from across the country to understand how climate change is showing up in their backyards, balconies, and community plots.
Their responses were candid, detailed, and sometimes emotional — revealing a shared sense of both urgency and determination. What follows is a snapshot of those insights, which are helping to shape the resources and direction of our upcoming Climate-Resilient Gardening Hub.
Gardeners on the Frontlines
Gardening is a deeply personal act, but the challenges our respondents face are increasingly universal. Most described themselves as intermediate or experienced gardeners, and they are motivated not only by the desire to grow food, but also to reduce their environmental impact, support biodiversity, and build resilience at home.
“My garden is my way of living more lightly on the planet — but lately it feels like nature is fighting back.”
What Climate Change Looks Like in the Garden
The impacts shared were both widespread and diverse — but common themes emerged across regions:
Longer, Hotter S
ummers
Gardeners reported more intense summers, with some plants — even natives — showing signs of heatstress and sunburn. Warmer nights and increased humidity are also becoming more common.
Less Reliable Rainfall
Many observed that rainfall is no longer consistent. Some described intense downpours that don’t soak in, while others are seeing long stretches of dry weather.
“We get these huge dumps of rain, but the ground doesn’t absorb it. It just runs off — or floods things.”
Drier Soil, More Drought
Dry conditions are stretching longer, and even with regular watering, soils are struggling to retain moisture. Some gardeners said their soil has become hydrophobic or compacted.
Weather Whiplash
Extreme and unpredictable events — such as hail, heatwaves, and unseasonal temperature swings — are making gardening more difficult and unpredictable.
“Apple blossoms in autumn. Crocus flowering three times. My plants don’t know what season it is.”
Seasonal Shifts and Plant Confusion
Many gardeners noticed plants flowering earlier, fruiting poorly, or germinating later than expected. Traditional planting calendars are proving less reliable.
Ecological Disruption
Several noted a drop in pollinators and insect life, and an increase in unfamiliar pests and diseases. This shift is disrupting food crops and biodiversity alike.
“Queensland fruit fly has arrived for the first time. My fruit trees are struggling. There are fewer bees, fewer worms, fewer everything.”
It’s Not Just the Weather: The Emotional Toll of Gardening in Uncertainty
For many, gardening is not only physical work but an emotional investment. When months of care are undone by unexpected weather or failed crops, it takes a toll.
“I’m growing less now. It’s just too hard to watch things fail after months of care.”
Others expressed concern about water availability, affordability, and the physical demands of adapting — especially for older gardeners or those on tight budgets.
What Do Gardeners Need Most?
The message was clear: gardeners need access to a wide range of strategies and resources. Topics of interest included:
- Water-wise gardening
- Soil improvement
- Adapting planting schedules
- Designing gardens for extreme weather
- Creating microclimates
- Managing pests and diseases naturally
- Gardening for wildlife
- Small-space and balcony gardening
What Comes Next?
This survey confirms what many of us have felt intuitively: climate change is already impacting our gardens. And gardeners are ready to respond — they just need the right tools and knowledge.
To support this, SGA is developing a Climate-Resilient Gardening Hub — a practical and evolving collection of resources to help gardeners adapt and thrive in the face of climate uncertainty. From plant choices and garden design tips to soil care and seasonal strategies, the Hub will provide regionally relevant, action-focused guidance.
Whether you're an experienced grower or just starting out, the Hub will offer support to help you feel confident and connected through the seasons.
Want to help?
This resource is being shaped by the community, for the community. Your feedback, your stories, and your support — financial or otherwise — help us grow a more resilient future for gardens and gardeners across Australia. Here are a few ways to contribute now:
- Donate to the campaign
- Complete the survey
- Send us an email
- Follow us on social media
- Subscribe to our newsletter
- Share with friends: share our social media posts to help us reach more people, and talk to your friends and neighbours about climate resilient gardening
Stay tuned as the Climate-Resilient Gardening Hub grows.
Ditch the Plastic: Smarter, Low-Waste Gardening That Works
Plastic has become deeply embedded in all aspects of our lives. That includes in our gardens, from pots and seed trays to plant labels, weed mats, tools and packaging.
While plastic is undoubtedly convenient, it also comes with significant environmental and health concerns. Globally, plastic pollution is prevalent in our waterways and oceans,1 leaching harmful chemicals into our soils, and contributing to climate change through its fossil-fuel-based production.
The good news? There are many simple, effective ways to reduce plastic in your garden without changing too much about how you do things or sacrificing plant health. It starts with making thoughtful choices and considering some alternatives.
Here are four key principles to guide a more sustainable approach:
- Shop carefully and consciously – seek out plastic-free options and consider the lifecycle of what you buy.
- Choose natural materials where possible – you may be surprised at the large selection of non-plastic gardening tools and supplies available.
- Opt for local, home-made, and thrifty solutions – reducing your reliance on mass-produced goods and embrace creativity is usually the most sustainable option.
- Care for and maintain your garden supplies and gear – reuse and repurpose whenever possible and dispose of items responsibly when they reach the end of their life.
The following table offers practical ways to put these principles into action. These tips will help you to grow your plants without growing your plastic footprint.
Do you have other ideas for reducing plastic in the garden? Get in touch, we’d love to hear them!
|
Item |
Plastic-free alternatives |
| Seed trays and punnets |
|
| Pots and containers |
|
| Plant labels |
|
| Plant ties |
|
| Stakes and trellises |
|
| Tree guards | |
| Weed mat |
|
| Fake turf |
|
| Bird and insect netting |
|
| Frost covers |
|
| Shade cloth |
|
| Tabletop greenhouses |
|
| Soil, potting mix and compost |
|
| Hand tools |
|
| Gloves |
|
| Pesticide, herbicide and fertilizer bottles |
|
| Spray bottles and tanks |
|
| Watering cans |
|
| Garden hoses |
|
| Garden hose fittings |
|
| Irrigation systems |
|
| Water tanks |
|
| Garden edging |
|
| Garden furniture |
|
References and further reading
- Sally Nex 'How to Go Plastic Free in Your Garden' Royal Horticulture Society
- Jennifer Howell 'Comparing Biodegradable Plant Pots' Garden Gate Magazine
- Greening Australia 10 tips for plastic-free planting
- Gardening with the RHS podcast 'Plastic - not Fantastic'
- GuardnGrow Natural weed mats, pots and tree guards
- Veggiemesh biodegradable garden netting
- Wool Valley wool weed matting
Gardening on Balconies: Ways to Thrive in Small Spaces
High-density living shouldn’t stop you from enjoying the benefits that having a garden brings. With thoughtful planning, balconies can be productive green spaces that enhance both your lifestyle and the environment.
Understanding Your Balcony’s Microclimate
Gardeners living in stand-alone dwellings benefit from having options when it comes to where to grow. If their backyard is in full shade, their front garden may be blissfully sunny, or vice versa. This means they can grow a wide variety of both sun-loving and shade-loving plants.
Balcony gardeners, on the other hand, are likely to have just one ‘aspect’, whether that’s the full-on heat and sun that comes with a north-facing balcony or a cooler, shadier space facing south. Perhaps most challenging are units facing west, where balconies are in full shade in the morning and blasting sun throughout the afternoon. Understanding these specific growing conditions – or microclimates – on your balcony is a very useful first step when setting up your garden.1
Each balcony has its own unique microclimate. Elevated positions can amplify heat and wind, creating conditions that differ significantly from ground-level gardens. Factors like overshadowing from neighbouring buildings, wind tunnels and heat from reflected surfaces all influence your microclimate, and these factors may change season to season. Once you have a good understanding of your conditions, you can choose plants suited to them. You can also add shade or shelter to influence your microclimate if required.
Choosing the Right Plants
Selecting plants suited to your balcony's conditions is essential. The ‘right plant right place’ principle suggests that matching your plants to your growing space means they are more likely to thrive. They will also need fewer inputs (water, fertiliser etc) and may be less prone to pests and diseases.
For sun-exposed areas, consider Mediterranean herbs like rosemary, thyme and oregano, and fruiting vegetables such as tomato, chilli and beans. In shadier spots, leafy greens such as spinach or lettuce and soft-leaved herbs like mint and lemon balm are a good starting point, along with rhubarb.
Compact varieties of vegetables are often good choices for windy sites, as they will benefit from the shelter provided by balustrades and walls. These varieties are also better suited for container gardening. Take care that stakes, trellises and hanging baskets above balustrade level are firmly secured – you don’t want elements of your garden causing a safety hazard as they’re blown away in a gust of wind!
Selecting Containers
Most gardening on balconies relies on growing in containers. When compared to small pots, larger containers provide more soil space for plant roots to grow, hold more water and dry out more slowly. Wicking pots and wicking beds, which have a water reservoir below the soil, use water efficiently2 and also allow you to go away for a few days without worrying about watering. Light-coloured pots that will reflect rather than absorb heat are preferable.
Before purchasing large containers make sure you’ll be able to transport them into your space. Also consider their overall weight, which includes not only the pot and soil but also the weight of water in a fully hydrated pot.
Soil, Nutrients and Watering
A good quality potting mix with the Australian Standard tick logo on the packaging is all that’s required to grow most plants in containers. You may wish to add some slow-release fertiliser such as a pelletised chicken manure or worm castings from a worm farm. Alternatively, feed your plants with an organic liquid fertiliser or worm tea every few weeks.
Topping your containers with mulch will help stop evaporation as well as deterring weeds. In very windy spots, the straw-based mulch usually recommended for veggies may just blow away – either hold it down with something heavy (eg a trowel laid across the surface or a few small rocks) until it settles into the soil, or consider a heavier alternative like fine wood chips.
Regular watering is vital, as containers can dry out quickly. Using self-watering pots or incorporating a wicking system can help, or consider a small drip system attached to an outside tap. Irrigation sprayers and drippers specifically designed for pots are available. If your potting mix dries out and becomes hydrophobic, dunk containers in a large tub of water to rehydrate them, or consider adding some coir (coconut fibre) to your potting mix to help hold water for longer.
Connect with Your Community
Engaging with your local gardening community is a good way to gain support and inspiration from people who have similar gardening spaces and conditions to yours. Sharing your experiences can really help if you’ve encountered some stumbling blocks along the way. Joining your nearest community garden, even if no garden plots are available for you to use, is a good way to connect with gardeners close to you. Some larger apartment complexes also have opportunities to start a gardening group, and sometimes there’s a little bit of common space to garden together too.
Gardening on balconies can be challenging but is also a rewarding way to grow some of your own food and connect with nature. By understanding your space, selecting appropriate plants, and employing smart gardening techniques, you can create a garden that enhances your home and wellbeing.
References
- Understanding Your Balcony Microclimate
- Semananda, Ward & Myers (2016) Evaluating the Efficiency of Wicking Bed Irrigation Systems for Small-Scale Urban Agriculture. Horticulturae. 2. 10.3390/horticulturae2040013.
Soil Contamination in Home Gardens
While growing your own food can be incredibly rewarding, it’s important to be mindful of the soil quality in your garden. Soil contamination is an issue in some gardens, and it can pose significant risks to both the environment and human health. Contamination can occur in any garden but gardens set in older houses or in urban areas with an industrial past are more likely to be affected. The good news is that soil contamination needn't mean the end to your gardening journey; there are easy steps that you can take to garden and grow food safely.
How Does Soil Become Contaminated?
Urban soils can be contaminated with a variety of heavy metals transported by air, soil or water. In urban areas past industrial activities, urbanisation, the use of lead paint and transportation infrastructure have all left their mark on garden soil. Common contaminants include lead, arsenic, cadmium, chromium and zinc.
Lead contamination in particular is a significant concern, especially in areas with older buildings where lead-based paints may have been used. Lead can also be present in soil near roads where pollutants from seven decades of leaded petrol use may have become persistent in the environment. According to the EPA’s GardenSafe initiative, soil in urban areas can also be contaminated by other pollutants from industrial activity, construction, or even past use of pesticides and fertilisers.
Why is Soil Contamination Harmful?
Contaminants are a concern because they can impact human health, biodiversity and the wider environment. For example, lead is recognised as a dangerous neurotoxin that can cause developmental delays in children and increase the risk of dementia in older people. Even small amounts of lead in our environment can be harmful to humans.
Do Contaminants Enter the Food You Grow?
Whether plants absorb heavy metals and other contaminants, and where those elements travel within plants, depends on the species. For example, leafy vegetables like spinach, lettuce and kale are particularly susceptible to absorbing lead and other toxins from the soil, while fruit trees may not be as susceptible. Trials at Delprat Garden in Newcastle have found that beans, watermelon, pumpkins and carrots accumulate toxins in the edible parts of the plant (fruit or roots). Sunflowers and mustard plants, however, accumulate lead and zinc in their roots but not in their leaves or flowers. Fig and tomato fruits in contaminated areas have been tested and found to contain no toxins.
The dangers are not just limited to direct ingestion of contaminated produce. When soil is disturbed through digging or weeding, pollutants can become airborne in dust and settle on other surfaces or be tracked into houses on the soles of shoes. Gardeners working the soil with bare hands can also encounter contaminants. Similarly, toxins can be ingested by children and pets who play in the garden or soil.
Is Your Soil Safe? Get a Test!
The first and most important step in relation to soil contamination is to know what’s in your soil. A professional soil test will reveal but can be costly. Fortunately, home gardeners in Australia can join citizen science efforts to map soil contamination and may be able to get a soil test done for free or the cost of a small donation:
- In Victoria, the EPA citizen science unit offers free soil tests through its GardenSafe program. Gardeners send up to three soil samples to GardenSafe and receive a report with information on soil nutrients and soil type as well as whether contaminants are present.
- Elsewhere in Australia gardeners can make a small donation ($20 is suggested) and receive a similar report from VegeSafe, which is associated with Macquarie University. (Note that this service is sometimes suspended due to a backlog of samples.)
Once you know what’s in your soil, you can make informed decisions about what to plant, what actions to take and whether remediation is necessary.
Gardening with Contaminated Soil
Discovering that your soil contains dangerous levels of heavy metals may be disheartening but it doesn’t need to mean an end to your gardening adventures. There are several simple steps that gardeners can take to reduce the impact of contaminated soil and grow healthy food:
- Raised garden beds: Raised garden beds are one of the most effective ways to avoid direct contact with contaminated soil. Fill your raised bed with purchased topsoil and you can then grow any type of edible crop including leafy greens.
- Mulch: Covering your soil with mulch limits soil disturbance and prevents soil sticking to your shoes and dust from spreading contaminants through the air.
- Don’t plant edibles under eaves: If you live in an older house that may have been painted with lead paint, avoid planting edibles under the dripline of eaves or directly beneath windowsills. It’s fine to plant ornamentals in these places.
- Provide safe play areas for children: install a sandpit or other play space where children can dig and play without coming into contact with your soil.
- Give chooks deep litter: make sure chickens can’t scratch in contaminated soil by installing a deep litter system that separates them and their food from the soil.
- Wear gloves and wash hands: wear gloves while gardening so your skin doesn’t come into direct contact with contaminated soil, and wash your hands after gardening.
- Wash veggies after harvesting: this will remove soil that may be attached to your crop before you consume it.
- Don’t wear shoes indoors: Contaminated soil (as well as dog poo and other nasties) can be carried indoors in the soles of shoes.
Phytoremediation: Nature’s Solution to Soil Contamination
One promising solution to soil contamination is phytoremediation, which is the use of plants to clean up polluted soils. Phytoremediation is seen as a better option than removing soil or capping it with a layer of clay. While these methods entail contaminants remaining in soil, phytoremediation has the ability to remove heavy metals from soils permanently.
Certain plant species have the ability to absorb contaminants from the soil. The toxins then accumulate in the plants’ tissues. As noted above, plants like sunflowers and mustard greens have been shown to absorb heavy metals such as lead, arsenic and cadmium. The plants can then be removed and composted in a dedicated compost heap. The question of how to dispose of the resultant compost, which has a smaller volume of plant matter but still contains heavy metals, is still being worked on. Delprat Garden in Newcastle is one site where research into phytoremediation is being done.
Urban gardening can be a fulfilling and sustainable way to grow your own food, but it’s essential to be aware of the risks associated with soil contamination. By testing your soil, choosing appropriate crops, and using some simple strategies, you can mitigate the dangers and create a healthier, more productive garden.
References:
- Gardensafe https://www.epa.vic.gov.au/gardensafe
- Vegesafe: https://www.360dustanalysis.com/pages/vegesafe-about
- Bulleen Art & Garden: Soil Contamination https://www.baag.com.au/soil-contamination/
- Gardening Australia, “Soil Safety” https://www.abc.net.au/gardening/how-to/soil-safety/103472326
- Gardening Australia, “Plants to the Rescue” https://www.abc.net.au/gardening/how-to/plants-to-the-rescue/102076168
- Taylor M and Filippelli G, 'Wearing shoes in the house is just plain gross. The verdict from scientists who study indoor contaminants' The Conversation 2022.
- Delprat Garden: https://delpratgarden.com.au/garden-performance (link no longer active).
Soil contamination and safety in urban areas
For a deep-dive on this topic see our upcoming class
" This session was very informative, inspiring and helpful. I will be putting Craig's advice into practice!"
Brandon
Soil Compaction Masterclass
The Rise of Sustainable Hardscaping
Sustainable hardscaping is an emerging trend driven by climate concerns, urban heat island effects, and a growing awareness of water conservation and biodiversity. Many gardeners are moving away from impermeable surfaces like concrete and opting for elements like pathways, retaining walls, decks, and patios. But how can we hardscape our gardens sustainably, ensuring they complement rather than compromise the surrounding environment?
What is Hardscaping?
Hardscaping refers to the built structures and features in a garden, including:
- Paths and walkways
- Decks and patios
- Retaining walls
- Edging and borders
- Water features
- Seating and pergolas
These elements provide structure, accessibility, and aesthetic balance while helping to define spaces within a garden.
How to Hardscape Sustainably
Sustainable hardscaping prioritises environmental harmony by using eco-friendly materials, conserving water, and fostering biodiversity. Here’s how you can integrate sustainable practices into your garden:
1. Choose Permeable Surfaces
Avoid concrete and opt for porous materials such as gravel, permeable pavers, or crushed rock. These surfaces allow water to infiltrate the soil, reducing runoff and helping to recharge groundwater.
2. Use Recycled and Locally Sourced Materials
- Repurpose old bricks, stones, or railway sleepers.
- Use recycled composite decking instead of newly harvested timber.
- Source materials locally to reduce transport emissions.
3. Incorporate Natural Retaining Walls
Instead of concrete walls, consider:
- Dry-stacked stone walls that provide crevices for beneficial insects.
- Gabion walls (wire cages filled with rocks) that support natural drainage.
- Timber sleepers from reclaimed or sustainably certified sources.
4. Create Wildlife-Friendly Spaces
- Design small rockeries or logs for lizards and beneficial insects.
- Install bird baths or frog ponds to support native wildlife.
- Use minimal artificial lighting to avoid disrupting nocturnal species.
5. Opt for Low-Maintenance, Durable Materials
Choosing materials that require little upkeep reduces waste and resource consumption over time. Sustainable timber, recycled metal, and natural stone are excellent choices for long-lasting structures.
Planting Guide for Sustainable Hardscaping
When integrating plants into a hardscaped garden, consider the following:
- Soil Preparation: Improve soil health with organic matter and mulch to support plant establishment.
- Watering Strategy: Group plants with similar water needs and install drip irrigation for efficiency.
- Microclimate Consideration: Place heat-tolerant plants near paved areas and shade-loving plants in cooler spots.
- Companion Planting: Use diverse plantings to promote beneficial insects and reduce pests.
Australian Native Plants for Hardscaped Gardens
Hardscaped areas often benefit from hardy, drought-tolerant plants that soften built elements and enhance biodiversity. Here are some top choices:
Ground Covers and Borders
- Dichondra repens (Kidney Weed) – A lush, spreading ground cover suitable for pathways.
- Myoporum parvifolium (Creeping Boobialla) – Fast-growing with dense foliage, ideal for erosion control.
- Scaevola aemula (Fan Flower) – Beautiful purple flowers that attract pollinators.
Shrubs and Screening Plants
- Callistemon spp. (Bottlebrush) – Hardy, nectar-rich flowers for birds and bees.
- Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary) – Tough, drought-resistant, and excellent for hedging.
- Correa alba (White Correa) – Compact, salt-tolerant, and perfect for informal hedges.
Feature Trees and Canopy Plants
- Eucalyptus caesia (Silver Princess) – Elegant weeping form with striking bark and flowers.
- Corymbia ficifolia (Red Flowering Gum) – Brilliant red, pink, or orange blooms that attract pollinators.
- Allocasuarina verticillata (Drooping Sheoak) – Provides shade and habitat for native birds.
Climbing and Vertical Interest Plants
- Hardenbergia violacea (Purple Coral Pea) – A vigorous climber with vibrant purple flowers.
- Pandorea pandorana (Wonga Wonga Vine) – A fast-growing vine with delicate, bell-shaped flowers.
- Kennedia prostrata (Running Postman) – A ground cover or climber with red pea flowers.
The Takeaway
By using eco-friendly materials, permeable surfaces, and Australian native plants, you can create a garden that is both practical and regenerative. Whether you’re building a pathway, adding a pergola, or designing a wildlife-friendly pond, thoughtful planning will ensure your outdoor space thrives for years to come.
If you'd like to learn more about permeable paving, including how permeable paving can be applied in streets, parking lots, walkways and other urban areas, join Director of TREENET, Dr Tim Johnson for an exclusive 'Permeable Paving' event on February 26 at 7pm. This is a Green Gardening Professional event, but FOSGA are invited to join. Tickets are $20 but all Friends of SGA can apply their 15% discount code at checkout.
Netting Fruit Trees
If you're a gardener looking to protect your ripening fruit or berries from birds and other hungry wildlife, netting fruit trees can be a real lifesaver. Providing a physical barrier between your crop and animals, netting is an effective, chemical-free method of pest control. But netting also poses risks to the animals who share our gardens. Wildlife rescue services regularly report flying foxes, bats, birds and reptiles that have been injured or killed after becoming entangled in netting in suburban gardens.
Animals including birds, grey-headed flying foxes, blue tongue lizards and even snakes will all take an interest in fruit and berries, often before the fruit is considered ripe to human palates. Unfortunately, loosely installed netting or nets with holes, gaps or flaps can all snag animals’ wings, beaks or claws, and reptiles often try unsuccessfully to squeeze through the holes in the netting, leading to serious harm. When animals get tangled in netting, they often panic and can be injured more severely as the netting cuts into them as they struggle.
The good news is that gardeners can take a few simple precautions to protect their harvest without risk to wildlife.
When to use netting
Netting is most useful when your crops are at a vulnerable stage, particularly when fruit are ripening. Ideally, fruit trees should be netted for the shortest time possible; wait until fruit is close to mature size and showing signs of ripening before installing nets. Having said that, many gardeners will have experienced the disappointment of going to net their trees only to find the fruit has already been nibbled by unwelcome visitors, so don’t leave it too late either.
Wildlife friendly netting
While no netting can be considered 100% safe for wildlife, rescue organisations promote the following types of products to reduce the risk of entanglement. Guidelines for wildlife friendly netting are legislated in the ACT and Victoria, making it illegal to sell or use non-compliant products in those states.
Netting should be densely woven and have a mesh size of less than 5mm x 5mm when stretched. To test whether your netting meets this standard, see if you can poke your finger through the holes – if you can fit your fingers through, dispose of that product and purchase a ‘bird friendly’ or ‘wildlife friendly’ option. Note that this is a maximum mesh size, but smaller gauges are available and are even less likely to accidentally snare animals.
White nets are more visible to animals and are recommended over darker colours.
Picking the right netting
There are a few different types of netting to choose from, and each one has its pros and cons. Here’s a quick breakdown:
- Bird netting: This netting has the largest mesh size to keep birds and other large animals from your crop but allows pollinators in to do their work. It’s also the most economical choice for larger trees, but can be tricky to install as the large holes tend to snag on small branches.
- Insect exclusion netting: This netting has smaller holes (usually around 2mm) and is usually used to keep insects off veggies. Using insect exclusion netting to protect fruit may seem like overkill, however the finer mesh size makes the net less likely to snag on branches making it easier to install than bird netting. Note that the mesh size isn’t small enough to protect fruit from Qld fruit fly.
- Fruit protection bags and sleeves: Bags made from insect exclusion netting can be placed around individual fruit or clusters of fruit (like apples or peaches) or the sleeves can be used to protect single branches. While this option may not protect your entire harvest, the bags are easy to install and are a good option where trees are too large to net or where getting a partial harvest is OK.
- Sustainable alternatives: If you’re looking for something a little more eco-friendly you can repurpose items such as old net curtains or an op shop bridal veil, or use paper bags to protect individual fruit. They can work just as well as store-bought netting, and they’re often made of natural fibres, meaning that they’re compostable at the end of their life. Just make sure all parts of the fabric pass the 5mm x 5mm ‘finger test’ described above.
How to use netting safely
Netting fruit trees in the right way is as important as the type of netting you use. Here are a few tips:
- Make it taut: Loose netting is a big no-no. It can create gaps that allows animals to slip into the enclosure and they are more likely to become ensnared in areas of loose netting. Make sure the netting is taut and securely fastened when it is installed and retighten it when needed.
- Use a frame: A frame, whether purchased or DIY (using PVC pipes or a build-your-own kit) helps to keep tension in the netting and to keep it off the plants. This will prevent the netting from touching the fruit, ensuring its safe from being eaten (birds are able to suck ripe flesh through exclusion bags or netting, though they seem able to do this without damaging the fabric). Frames can be used over pots and raised garden beds as well as for trees grown in garden beds.
- Secure the bottom: Make sure the netting is secured at the bottom so animals can’t sneak under it and become trapped in the enclosure. There are two options: weighting or pegging the hem of the netting around the dripline of the tree, and gathering the netting snugly around the tree’s trunk and securing it with a tie.
- Use clips and ties: Bulldog clips or similar attached to the frame can help keep the netting taut, even during windy weather.
When installing netting remember that you will need access under it to harvest the fruit. Some nets are designed to allow this, with openings with overlapping pieces of netting or zips to provide easy access.
It’s worth noting that dwarf varieties of fruit trees are easier to net than full-size trees, that a well-pruned and maintained tree will be easier to net than a neglected one, and that trees grown in pots may need netting just the same as those grown in-ground.
Monitoring and maintenance
Netting fruit trees shouldn’t be a set and forget exercise. As well as regularly checking on the ripeness of the fruit, it’s important to check your netting regularly for trapped wildlife—ideally every morning and evening. Make sure the netting is taut and secure and that no birds, bats or reptiles are trapped in the mesh.
Small branches, wind-blown debris and insects can all get snagged in netting, sometimes creating rips or holes. These should be repaired as soon as possible. Do this by hand sewing the edges together while the net is on the tree or using a sewing machine on a wide zigzag setting at the end of the season.
End-of-life disposal
While plant-based, compostable netting is now available for purchase in Europe, in Australia we still rely on plastic for netting fruit trees. Maintaining your netting and repairing it when needed is a better option than treating it as an easily replaceable item. At the end of its life, dispose of netting responsibly so that it doesn’t pose an ongoing risk for wildlife, whether in your garden, in landfill or in waterways.
Netting is a fantastic way to protect your fruit trees from pests and wildlife, but it’s super important to use it in a way that’s safe for the animals around you. By choosing the right type of netting, making sure it’s securely fastened, and regularly checking for entangled wildlife, you can protect both your plants and the creatures that share your garden.