Prevent Pests in Your Garden

If you can prevent pests in your garden you will save time, resources and money as well as helping your garden flourish. Effective pest control is much easier than often thought with the most important method being prevention. As is sometimes said in relation to human health care “…an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

By establishing some good garden practices, pest problems in the garden can be minimised.

For pests or diseases to take hold in the garden (on a plant) there must be three things:

A susceptible host (plant)
An aggressive pest or disease
Environment that is favourable to the pest or disease

Effective pest control requires that there is a knowledge of the host, its pests and diseases, their natural enemies and the environment.

Prevention

This involves excluding as many potential problems as possible:

Use of appropriate plants

Choose plants that are suited to the current and future climate and to the soil types, existing pH and aspect for where they are to be planted. Include plants that do not require lots of water additional to rainfall to thrive. Not only does this this help reduce pest and disease issues, it also reduces the inputs (water, fertiliser, work hours etc), leaving more time for enjoying your garden.
Use plants that are less susceptible to pests. For example, there are certain cultivars of Syzygium (lilly pillies) that are resistant to psyllids and roses that are resistant to black spot.
Diversify plantings. Having a variety of different plant communities supports diverse insect and spider populations which may prey on or parasitise pest species. Diverse and insect-rich environments often reach equilibrium with few pest problems causing significant damage.
Companion Planting. This approach aims to use nature to attract, repel, enhance plant health and flavour. For example, planting Winter Cress Barbarea verna effectively attracts beneficial insects and entices the cabbage white butterfly to lay its eggs on the leaves. But the plant kills emerging caterpillars as they try eating it. Marigolds deter the cabbage white butterfly from laying eggs on brassicas as well as repelling root nematodes.

Garden hygiene

You wouldn't keep using the same utensils in the kitchen without cleaning them and the same applies in the garden. It is best practice to clean your garden equipment to prevent the spread of disease. Most important is the cleaning of cutting tools (secateurs, loppers, saws etc.) as these can transfer pathogens to an open wound on a plant. This is especially important when pruning plants of the same species as they can be infected by the same pathogens. Not all infections are apparent and by not cleaning between plants, it is very easy to transfer a pathogen from one plant to another. It is best to use methylated spirits or diluted bleach.
Prune out dead, diseased, damaged or dying vegetation. Dispose of by burning or place in rubbish bin (do not compost or place in green waste bins) to prevent spread of pathogens. This is especially the case with vegetation infected with rusts or fungus.
Control weeds as some provide habitat for pests in the garden e.g. snails love to hide in plants like Agapanthus [yes… agapanthus is a weed in some areas])

Good Gardening (Horticultural) Practices ¹

No-Dig Gardening This helps maintain soil structure. Good soil structure allows plants to better access air, water and nutrients which in turn keeps them healthier and able to defend themselves from pests.
Mulch This helps improve/build soil structure and improves soil’s ability to retain moisture which plays a vital role in plant health.
Crop Rotation In annual vegetable plots rotate crops from season to season to prevent a build up of pests that attack one type/group of plant family. A Four Bed Crop Rotation System is described here
Fertiliser/Nutrient Management Only fertilise when required. If necessary, have soils tested for nutrient levels. Over-fertilisation doesn’t benefit the plants, in fact it can contribute to many problems, as well as causing unused nutrients to leach/run off. Plants which are over-fertilised may have excessively lush growth which is more likely to be attacked by sap-sucking insects such as aphids or scale and be more susceptible to insect, pest or disease attack. Conversely, under-fertilisation may also cause plant stress leading to them to become similarly susceptible. Pay attention to the differing levels and ratios of nutrients which different plants need for optimum health. Temperature can also have an impact on nutrient uptake in plants (low temperatures can lead to low uptake of nutrients).
Water/Irrigation Management Apply water at soil level, particularly if watering in the evening, since wet leaves and higher humidity can make a plant more susceptible to fungal infections. Don't leave standing water in the garden as it provides a place for mosquitoes to breed as well as a place for plant pests and pathogens to breed.
Potting mix Keep potting mixes in sealed containers. Potting mix can be infected by pathogens if stored in open bags/containers for extended periods.

Provide Habitat for Beneficial Organisms ²

Why provide habitat in the garden?

Native wildlife has its own intrinsic value but can also add plenty of value to a functional garden ecosystem.

The table below shows a list of beneficial organisms, most of which can be attracted to your garden by providing suitable habitat. It also shows the pests they can control in various ways.

Often birds and a other native wildlife can help control pest insects and other pests. Birds and microbats are insectivorous, as are reptiles and amphibians, such as blue-tongue lizards, skinks and frogs.

Providing places for shelter, water and food for native animals can help encourage these creatures into the garden. For details about creating habitat see articles on key steps to take, attracting lizards frogs, beneficial flies and predatory insects which prey on pests.

Some useful items to add to your garden

I nsect Hotels . These can be home-made and are also available commercially.

Nest Boxes. These can be for insects, bats or birds. They can look very attractive and are easy to make.

Domesticated Birds. Allowing ducks, chicken or geese to browse in areas of the garden infested with pests can help control their numbers. Introducing such birds are effective predators of snails, slugs, insects and spiders and can provide you with a usful food source as well!

We are very grateful to Bridey Oliver for the research and first draft of this article and to financial support from the Lord Mayor's Charitable Foundation.

References

1. Flint ML. 2018. Pests of the Garden and Small Farm. A Growers Guide to Using Less Pesticide.University of California - Agriculture and Natural Resources.

2. Gurr GM, Wrattan SD, Altieri MA. (Eds) 2004. Ecological Engineering for Pest Management. Advances in Habitat Management for Arthropods.CSIRO.

by SGA

Suppress and Eradicate Garden Pests Sustainably

There are many ways to suppress and eradicate garden pests sustainably if you find you can’t prevent them invading your garden. Such approaches mostly involve some observation of your garden to identify which pests should be targeted, planning which or how many techniques to use and reducing chemical use.

Manual Removal

When you notice pests, it is sometimes quickest and most efficient to remove them by hand.

Picking Off/Fly Swat

Since some caterpillars can sting, use a gloved hand, squash and/or remove them. They can be disposed of by squashing them into the ground or feeding the to chickens.

Water Jet – Hose

Many pests, like aphids and peach and pear cherry slug, can be hosed off plants. Aphids cannot/will not return to the plant. However, bear in mind that this is probably not the best use of water in a country prone to droughts.

Pruning

If there seems to be no other option, prune out infested plant parts e.g. this is the effective for citrus gallwasp. Dispose of diseased or infested material in plastic bags (sealed) in rubbish bin or burn them.

Barriers and Traps

For certain pests that you have noticed in the garden, you can avoid removing them by installing barriers or traps.

Copper Tape

This is effective in preventing attack by snails and slugs. Its appears to repel snails/slugs because a mild electrical charge occurs when they cross/touch the tape. Tape should be at least 5cm wide and needs to be shiny and clean since tarnished tape will not work. It is most effective when placed on the surface of pots or benches as long as you are sure that there are no snails/slugs inside the area you are enclosing. This method can be used for individual plants in the ground, but the tape needs to be at least 10cm wide with half buried below the soil surface.

Netting

If birds, possums, bats or rats attack your plants or fruit, netting individual plants, branches, fruit clusters or whole plant beds is an effective approach. For whole garden beds or large trees use 5mm x 5mm (or smaller) netting pulled taut over a frame/structure over plants. For small trees, single branches or fruit clusters, netting can just be in the form of a bag.

Regulations under the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Regulations 2019, effective since September 2021, state that netting sold or used must have a mesh size of 5mm x 5mm or less at full stretch. Larger mesh sizes trap birds and bats ultimately killing them.

Horticultural Glue

This can be applied in bands around the trunk of trees/plants at an appropriate time to prevent the migration of insects such as ants which feed on honeydew and spread sooty mould. It can also prevent larvae of codling moth or elm leaf beetle moving up into the canopy where they complete their life cycle. Layer a band of glue all the way around the trunk/base of tree and replace as necessary.

Corrugated Cardboard

When wrapped around the trunk of trees e.g. apple trees, it can address codling moth infection of fruit since the moths use the dark corrugated spaces to pupate. The cardboard needs to be secured with tape or string. By periodically removing and destroying the cardboard the moths can be prevented them from completing their life cycle.

Dry/Powder Barriers

A number of dry materials on the soil surface around plants can deter slugs/snails. Examples are coffee grounds, diatomaceous, sawdust, lime or copper sulphate. These substances need to be kept dry and should be used in thick layers and replaced when damp or depleted. This means frequent reapplication or protection from rain or sprinkler irrigation.

Traps

Sticky Insect Traps

These traps use colour to attract insects – yellow strips for aphids and whitefly and blue for thrips and leaf miner. They contain an extremely sticky glue that prevents insect escape. Unfortunately, they will trap both pest insects and those that are desirable. Hang in locations with problem pests. Monitor and replace when necessary.

Snail/Slug (Gastropod) Traps

These can be made from pieces of cardboard, wood or plastic board and even just a flowerpot. Place on ground in a damp spot in garden. If you lift them after 1 or 2 days lift you can remove any snails/slugs congregated underneath.

Another type can be made from a glass or plastic container sunk in the ground or from a commercial version with the top level with the soil surface. Add beer or sweet liquid. Snails/slugs are attracted to the sweetness and will drown when they enter. These traps need to be cleaned out regularly and preferably have a cover to protect from rain or sprinkler irrigation. However, they are non-specific and could potentially kill non-target organisms.

Bug Zappers

These traps are devices that attract flying insects when lit up via a 240 volt power point and electrocute them on a high voltage conducting grid.

Their disadvantages are that they do not discriminate between pest and beneficial insects and can generate airborne particles from the insects as they are electrocuted. These particles can be potential allergens and possibly contaminate food. They could also spread viruses and bacteria into air which could be inhaled by people nearby. They should be located way from areas where food is prepared or consumed.

Repellents and Attractants

Companion Planting

Particular plants can be used to attract, repel or enhance health of valued plants such as fruit and vegetables. For example, land cress Barbarea verna effectively attracts the diamond back moth and large cabbage moth which then lay their eggs on it. It contains a chemical which poisons the moth larvae after they hatch and eat the leaves. Click here for an overview of companion plants for fruits and vegetables.

Visual Bird Deterrents

These are designed to scare birds away. They may be made from reflective/shiny material such as lights, mirrors, reflectors, reflective tape, or can be materials hung in trees so that they move with air movement e.g. flags, rags or streamers. They can also look like enemies such as dogs, humans (a scarecrow) or birds of prey e.g.hawks. These are only effective for short periods of time since birds quickly habituate to them and will resume normal activities. They should be changed when no longer effective.

Pheromone Lures

Chemicals in these lures are the artificial pheromones that male or female insects emit to attract those of the opposite sex for mating. These lures cause insects to become confused and to aggregate, thereby decreasing their opportunities to mate. This means that their reproductive rate declines leading to reduction in population sizes. Such lures only work on mature or adult stage insect pests. You will need to monitor pest type and number and replace lures or clean them periodically if necessary.

Reduce Use of Chemical Pesticides

Chemicals used in pesticides are one of the causes of observed global declines in insect populations . While only some of the above control methods are not specific for pest insects, spraying with chemicals is mostly unspecific and can actually increase pest problems by killing beneficials too. Populations of beneficial insects frequently take longer to recover than pest insects so pest rebound occurs faster since there are fewer of their enemies.

Most chemical pesticides have extremely negative impacts on species beyond the insects targeted. This includes birds, frogs, pets and humans. Bee populations are badly affected by a range of chemical pesticide ingredients including neonicatinoids. Migration of songbirds and resulting decreases in mating success are also affected by neonicatinoids.

Furthermore, pesticide chemicals can spread beyond sites sprayed since some are absorbed by plants and then transferred to other species which eat them and many can be washed off by rain and then move through soil into waterways where they may affect fish and other aquatic species.

We are very grateful to Bridey Oliver for the research and first draft of this article and to financial support from the Lord Mayor’s Charitable Foundation.

by SGA

Water Smart Gardening 101 Video

Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series

PART 4: Water Smart Gardening

As the climate changes we need to take extra care to design water smart gardens. Australia is the driest habitable continent in the world and there will be periods where water availability will be constrained. Similarly, our gardens will experience more extreme rain events. Whether it is too much or too little, water smart techniques can help keep your garden stay beautiful and productive.

Topics Covered:

Smart design options and choices that reduce water usage
The role of garden zones, plant selection, mulch in Water Smart gardening
How you to improve soil’s water holding capacity
The role of your garden in stormwater management.

by SGA

Low Impact Pest Management 101 Video

Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series

PART 3: Low Impact Pest Management

Gardens are the natural habitat for all types of insects – the good, the bad and the ugly. Learn how to avoid unnecessary chemical use by managing the pests in your garden by using nature and its resources to strengthen the balance towards the beneficial kind.

Topics Covered

Being a detective – identifying the culprits
Beneficial insects vs pests
Using barriers and cultural strategies

by SGA

Soil Farming 101 Video

Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series

PART 2: Soil Farming

What’s the secret to success in the garden? It is all about the soil! We need to concentrate not on feeding our plants, but on feeding the soil! Healthy soil is full of life and fundamental to the health of our gardens. It provides all plants with all the nutrients and water they need to grow. Learn about the science of soil and how to improve it in an environmentally beneficial way that in-turn supports your plants to be productive.

Topics Covered:

Soil types and amending or improving challenging soil
Introduction to the Soil-Food-Web, soil microbes, fungi and soil bio-diversity
pH and how to adjust it
Top tips in soil activation

by SGA

Composting and Worm Farming 101 Video

Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series

PART 1: Composting and Worm Farming

Sustainable gardens need compost! And plenty of it! Composting your kitchen and garden waste into “black gold” will feed your garden and help the environment. Learn how to activate your compost system to increase your output to get it to a level that will keep up with your gardens needs.

Topics Covered:

What is compost and how it is made
The environmental benefits of composting
The basic compost recipe
Worm Farming
Troubleshooting

by SGA

January In Your Patch

What's happening in the garden this Month?

January can be one of the toughest months in the garden. Heatwaves, drying winds and holiday absences can all place extra pressure on plants. The good news is that a few simple actions can keep your patch productive, resilient and thriving through summer.

This Month's Priorities

Protect plants from heat
January sun can be relentless, especially for young seedlings, leafy greens and recently planted crops. Set up temporary shade cloth, umbrellas or other moveable shade structures to protect vulnerable plants during extreme heat. Position shade on the western side of garden beds to block the harsh afternoon sun. If you're looking for a longer-term solution, try growing climbers such as cowpea or climbing beans over a trellis to create living shade while also improving soil healt

Water wisely
Give your garden a deep soak in the early morning a few times a week rather than light daily watering. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the soil, helping plants access moisture during hot weather. Before forecast heatwaves, water thoroughly to build up moisture reserves in the root zone. Keep an eye on pots and hanging baskets, which dry out much faster than garden beds and may need extra watering.

Top up mulch
A generous layer of mulch is one of the best ways to protect your garden through summer. After watering, top up mulch around vegetable beds, herbs and ornamentals to around 7cm deep, keeping it clear of stems and young seedlings. Mulch helps reduce evaporation, moderate soil temperatures, suppress weeds and improve soil structure as it breaks down.

Support wildlife
Hot weather can be just as challenging for birds, pollinators and other wildlife as it is for plants. Place shallow dishes of clean water around the garden and add stones, sticks or non-slip surfaces so insects can drink safely. Raised bird baths help protect visitors from cats, while flowering plants and diverse habitats provide food and shelter for beneficial insects that support a healthy, balanced garden ecosystem.

Watch for pests
Warm weather creates ideal conditions for a range of summer garden problems. Protect tomatoes, capsicums and eggplants from Queensland fruit fly with insect exclusion netting, and regularly collect fallen fruit to reduce pest numbers. Keep an eye out for blossom end rot on tomatoes, which appears as a dark, sunken patch on the bottom of fruit and is often linked to irregular watering. Regular checks now can prevent bigger problems later in the season.

What to Plant in Your Region

Warm Areas

Rarely experience frost, or only very light frost. Includes northern coastal and inland regions, generally north of Coffs Harbour across to Geraldton.

January can be challenging in warm climates, with high temperatures and intense sun placing stress on young plants. While it's not the busiest planting month, there are still plenty of productive options for your patch.

Edibles to plant now: Eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, capsicum, chillies and tomatoes can be planted now, with late January often providing the best planting window in many regions. Lettuce can also be planted towards the end of the month but will benefit from some afternoon shade or protection under shade cloth.

Herbs: Lemongrass thrives in the heat and is an excellent choice for summer planting.

Fruit: It's not too late to plant watermelon and rockmelon, while longer-term crops such as pineapple and mango can be established now for future harvests.

Flowers: Marigolds and sunflowers add colour to the garden while attracting pollinators and beneficial insects.

Soil Builders: Sow heat-loving green manure crops such as cowpea, lablab and millet to protect bare soil, improve structure and boost fertility. Climbing varieties can also provide temporary shade for young vegetables.

Cool to Cold Areas

Frequent frosts and cooler summers. Includes Tasmania, the ACT, Southern Highlands of NSW, southern Victoria and parts of southern South Australia.

Although summer temperatures are milder than other regions, January is still a productive time for planting and maintaining your garden.

Edibles to plant now: Lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, spring onions and leeks can all be planted now for reliable harvests over coming months. Zucchini will also perform well provided plants receive adequate sunlight and watering.

Herbs: Basil, parsley, dill, sage and watercress can all be planted now. Mint is another great option but is best grown in containers to stop it spreading. Avoid planting coriander, which is likely to bolt quickly in summer conditions.

Flowers: Plant stock, verbena and ageratum for summer colour, or sow sunflower seeds in a sunny position for cheerful blooms later in the season.

Soil Builders: Green manure crops such as millet and mung beans will help restore nutrients, build organic matter and improve soil structure ahead of autumn planting.

Temperate Areas

Occasional frosts in winter and warm summers. Includes much of southern Queensland, southern NSW, inland South Australia, Victoria and parts of Western Australia.

January remains an active planting month in temperate regions, although extra attention to watering and shade may be needed during hot spells.

Edibles to plant now: Leeks, sweet corn, beans, cucumbers, spring onions and zucchini are all suitable choices and will keep the patch productive through summer.

Herbs: Lemongrass is one of the most reliable herbs to establish during the hotter months thanks to its tolerance of heat and dry conditions.

Flowers: Sunflowers are a classic January planting. You can also add colour and attract beneficial insects with nasturtiums, verbena, petunias and marigolds.

Soil Builders: Consider sowing green manure crops such as cowpea, mung bean, soybean or millet to improve soil health and prepare beds for future crops.

Summer Care: Keep mulch topped up, maintain a regular watering schedule and remove weeds before they compete with your vegetables for moisture and nutrients.

Build Healthy Soil This Summer

January is a great time to focus on soil health. Healthy soil holds moisture more effectively, supports stronger plant growth and helps gardens cope with summer heat.

Feed Your Garden

Plants are actively growing and producing fruit at this time of year, so they will benefit from a gentle feed. A seaweed solution or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser can help support growth, improve resilience to heat stress and encourage healthy root development. Worm tea can also be applied every couple of weeks throughout the growing season to boost soil life and plant health.

For best results, apply liquid feeds to moist soil early in the morning and follow the recommended dilution rates.

Grow a Green Manure Crop

If you have empty garden beds, consider sowing a green manure crop. Fast-growing plants such as cowpea, lablab, millet, mung bean or soybean help protect bare soil, suppress weeds and add valuable organic matter when dug back into the garden. Green manure crops also support beneficial soil microbes and can improve soil structure for future plantings.

Climbing varieties such as cowpea and lablab can provide the added benefit of temporary shade for young vegetables during the hottest part of summer.

January isn't just about surviving summer. It's the perfect time to observe your garden closely, learn what thrives in your conditions, and start planning for the productive seasons ahead. Even a few minutes in the cool of the morning can help keep your patch healthy and connected to the rhythms of the year.

Further reading:

by SGA

February In Your Patch

Wondering what to do in your patch this February? Summer isn't over yet, but there are signs of change on the horizon. Tomatoes, capsicums and eggplants are still producing, while gardeners can begin preparing for the cooler months ahead.

February is often one of the hottest and driest months of the year, and gardens can start showing the effects of sustained heat, water stress and intense weather events. A few well-timed jobs now can help your patch stay productive through the remainder of summer while setting it up for a successful autumn season.

And don't forget to look after yourself too. Garden in the cooler parts of the day, wear a broad-brimmed hat, sunscreen and long sleeves, and keep a water bottle close at hand.

This Month's Priorities

Protect Plants from Heat
By February, your garden has shown you where it struggles. Take note of crops that regularly wilt, scorch or suffer sunburn in hot weather. Temporary shade structures, shade cloth or strategically positioned umbrellas can make a significant difference during heatwaves. Eggplants, capsicums, lettuce and young seedlings will all appreciate some relief from harsh afternoon sun.

If parts of your garden consistently struggle through summer, now is a great time to start planning where additional trees, shrubs or climbing plants could provide future shade. The more layers of planting you have, the cooler and more resilient your patch will become.

Water Deeply and Restore Dry Soil
Long hot spells can leave soil dry and water-repellent. If water is pooling on the surface or running straight through pots, your soil may have become hydrophobic.

The long-term solution is increasing organic matter through compost, manure and mulch. Continue watering deeply and less frequently to encourage stronger root systems. Containers may benefit from a thorough soak to rehydrate dry potting mix before returning to normal watering schedules.

As rainfall becomes more unpredictable, February is also a good time to start thinking about rain gardens, swales or infiltration trenches that can help slow, spread and store rainfall when it eventually arrives.

Mulch for Moisture Retention
A fresh layer of mulch continues to pay dividends through late summer. Top up vegetable beds, herb gardens and ornamental areas to help reduce evaporation, moderate soil temperatures and suppress weeds.

Apply mulch after watering and keep it clear of stems and young seedlings. A layer around 7 cm deep will help your garden better withstand hot, dry conditions while gradually improving soil health as it breaks down.

Get Ahead of Autumn
Late summer is one of the best times to prepare for the next growing season. Remove spent crops, pull out weeds before they set seed and incorporate compost or other organic matter into tired beds.

A little effort now will save a lot of work later and will leave your garden ready for the productive months ahead.

Watch for Fruit Fly
Queensland Fruit Fly remains active in many areas during February. Check ripening fruit regularly for signs of damage, including pin-prick marks on fruit and soft spots developing beneath the skin.

Remove affected fruit promptly and collect fallen fruit from beneath trees. Seal infested fruit in a plastic bag and leave it in full sun before disposal to help break the breeding cycle.

What to Plant in Your Region

Warm Areas

Rarely experience frost, or only very light frost. Includes northern coastal and inland regions, generally north of Coffs Harbour across to Geraldton.

While the heat can still be intense, late February offers opportunities to begin transitioning towards autumn crops.

Edibles to plant now: Leeks, capsicum, chillies, cabbage, silverbeet, lettuce, sweet corn, cauliflower, broccoli and tomatoes can all be planted towards the end of the month.

Herbs: Lemongrass performs well during hot weather. Towards the end of the month, sweet basil, purple basil and other basil varieties can also be planted.

Fruit: Banana, pineapple and mango can all be established now for future harvests.

Flowers: Marigolds and sunflowers provide colour while attracting pollinators and beneficial insects.

A summer reminder: If shrubs and ornamental plants are looking a little scorched, resist the temptation to prune heavily. Damaged foliage can help protect new growth underneath from further sun damage. Wait until temperatures ease before undertaking major pruning.

Cool to Cold Areas

Frequent frosts and cooler summers. Includes Tasmania, the ACT, southern Victoria, the Southern Highlands of NSW and parts of southern South Australia.

Although autumn is approaching, there is still plenty happening in the veggie patch.

Edibles to plant now: Lettuce, spinach, leeks, silverbeet, Asian greens, broccoli and spring onions can all be planted as temperatures begin to ease.

Herbs: Parsley and watercress are good options for late-summer planting.

Flowers: Add colour and movement to the patch with stock, dianthus, viola, pansy, verbena and ageratum.

Fruit Tree Care: End-of-summer pruning can help maintain healthy fruit trees by improving airflow and removing damaged or diseased branches.

An edible weed: Purslane is often abundant at this time of year. Rather than treating it as a nuisance, harvest the young tips for salads or lightly blanch them before eating.

Temperate Areas

Occasional winter frosts. Includes much of southern Queensland, southern NSW, Victoria, inland South Australia and parts of Western Australia.

As temperatures begin to moderate, planting opportunities increase.

Edibles to plant now: Silverbeet, leeks, spring onions, Brussels sprouts, bush beans, broccoli, cauliflower, celery and lettuce can all be planted towards the end of the month.

Herbs: Lemongrass continues to thrive, while basil varieties including sweet, Thai, lemon and purple basil are also suitable.

Fruit: Avocados can be planted in suitable locations towards the end of the month.

Flowers: Nasturtiums, verbena, petunias and marigolds add colour while supporting pollinators and beneficial insects.

Keep seedlings protected: New seedlings may appreciate some temporary shade cloth or protection from hot afternoon sun while they establish.

Build Healthy Soil & Garden Resilience

February is a month of transition. While summer crops are still producing, now is the perfect time to start preparing your garden for autumn.

Feed Soil, Not Just Plants

As summer crops draw nutrients from the soil, replenish garden beds with compost, well-rotted manure or worm castings. A seaweed tonic or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser can help support plants through the final stretch of summer while encouraging strong root growth ahead of autumn planting.

Apply liquid feeds early in the morning and follow recommended dilution rates.

Consider a Green Manure Crop

If a garden bed is looking tired, sow a green manure crop rather than leaving it bare.

Warm areas: Lablab, cowpea, mung bean, soybean and millet.

Cool to cold areas: Oats, field peas, fava beans, lupins and vetch.

Temperate areas: Oats, field peas, lupins and vetch.

Green manure crops improve soil structure, support beneficial microbes, add valuable organic matter and help prepare beds for future crops.

Keep Compost Working

High temperatures can quickly dry out compost systems. Check moisture levels regularly and add water if required. Compost should feel about as damp as a wrung-out sponge.

Turning the pile occasionally will help maintain airflow and speed up decomposition.

Save Garden Resources

Heat-stressed trees and shrubs often shed leaves at this time of year. Rather than treating them as waste, gather them for composting or start a leaf mould pile. These materials will provide valuable organic matter for future planting seasons.

Plan for Autumn Success

Take advantage of any time spent weeding and tidying to prepare beds for the months ahead. Removing spent crops, topping up organic matter and keeping weeds under control now will make autumn planting far easier and more productive.

If you're planning to grow garlic this year, start thinking about where it will go and preparing beds with plenty of compost ready for planting when temperatures cool.

Further reading

by SGA

April In Your Patch

The perfect month for chocolate lovers and practical jokers alike, April is also a top time to get into the patch! There is a little bit of rain around, the weather is cooling down, and shed loads of stuff is ready to plant! So, don’t be a bunny, get into gardening this April! Hop to it!

Climate-Resilient Garden Tips for April

Cooling & Greening

As we move into April and temperatures begin to fall, your soil continues to play an important role in stabilising the microclimate of your garden. Cooler days mean evaporation slows, making April a good time to build soil moisture and improve the soil’s natural cooling and buffering capacity. By adding organic matter such as compost or well‑aged manure, you enhance soil structure and increase its ability to hold water for slow release, supporting healthy evapotranspiration. Keeping soil covered with mulch also helps maintain moisture, protect soil organisms and moderate temperature fluctuations. Together, these actions set your garden up for better cooling, resilience and growth through autumn. For a deeper dive, see our article on building soil health for a biodiverse, productive garden, and, for Friends of SGA, check out our Soil Farming 101 video.

Support Biodiversity

Many native wildflowers, including everlasting daisies (Xerochrysum and Rhodanthe species), can be grown from seed in Autumn. That makes April a great time to start a small wildflower garden, to provide a burst of colour while supporting pollinators, beneficial insects and local biodiversity. Choose a variety of native, and ideally indigenous, flowering plants to create a nectar-rich display that thrives through changing conditions. To give native bees a helping hand, pair your wildflower patch with a simple bee or insect hotel placed in a sheltered spot. Discover tips for designing and maintaining insect hotels here.

Food-Growing Resilience

Autumn is an ideal time to boost the productivity of your veggie beds by topping up compost and enriching soil before winter crops go in. Spread a layer of mature compost over garden beds to replenish nutrients, improve soil structure and support the soil microbiome through the cooler months. It’s also the perfect season to collect carbon‑rich materials – such as fallen deciduous leaves in cooler climates, straw, shredded paper and other dry plant matter – to balance the nitrogen‑rich “greens” in your compost system. With composting activity naturally slowing as temperatures fall, troubleshoot any lingering odours, poor breakdown or excess moisture. You can find guidance on common compost problems and how to fix them here

Pests & Diseases

In warmer regions, Queensland fruit fly (QFF) remains active through April and may infest ripening crops such as passionfruit and citrus. Check fruit regularly for stings and soft spots, and harvest promptly to reduce the chance of infestation. Staying vigilant during warm spells will help keep QFF numbers down, reducing the number of flies that could overwinter in your garden.

Garden Tasks & Planting Guides by Region

Warm Areas

Generally north from about Coffs Harbour and across to Geraldton, these gardens rarely experience frost (or only very light frost), need extra protection for sun-sensitive plants, and benefit from heat-tolerant vegetables.

Edibles to plant now – It’s time to love your leafy greens! Whack in the following this month: Asian greens, lettuce, mizuna, cabbage, silverbeet, rocket and spinach! Keep the bunnies happy and pop in some carrots during April. Go veggie crazy with artichoke, beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, tomatoes, chilli, garlic and radish.
If you are in the tropical north (anywhere north of Rocky) you could try some cucumber, pumpkin, sweet corn, squash, sweet potatoes and zucchinis. Stick in some spuds… home grown is easy, and incredibly rewarding.
Herbs – Hop into the herb patch with coriander (try a slow bolting variety if it’s still warm), parsley, lemon grass, chamomile and oregano.
Flowers – Pretty up the patch with these flowering fancies – marigolds, sunflowers and pansies, cornflowers, violas, snapdragons, stock, verbena and lavender (non-invasive varieties of course!). Popping these in around your veggies will give some colour and interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
Fertilise – Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser, is perfect for giving them a kick start as they establish. Apply to the soil early in the morning and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
Weeding – Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!
Mulching – Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose a sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
Water smarter – Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering at this time of year… don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!
Edible Natives – In subtropical areas, April is an excellent time to plant a wide range of native edibles. Warrigal greens, native celery and sea celery are all good options, and finger lime, lemon myrtle and riberry should also establish well if planted now. Keep plants mulched, water through dry spells, and focus on good drainage as the weather begins to cool.
Planning ahead – Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year, try oats, lupins, field peas or vetch. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, as a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!

Cool to Cold Areas

Frequent frosts and cooler summers. Includes Tasmania, the southern highlands of NSW, ACT, southern Victoria, and small pockets of southern SA. Plants need protection from frost and may struggle with heat stress during occasional hot spells.

Edibles to plant now – Whack these tasty wonders into your yummy yard this month: Chinese cabbage, most Asian greens, spinach, rocket, broccoli, spring onions, asparagus, celery, endive, squash, onions, silverbeet, leeks and lettuce. Don’t be a bunny—remember to plant some carrots during April! Set aside a bit of space and pop in an artichoke—they’re gorgeous additions to the patch, look amazing, and taste pretty good too!
Herbs – Tasty herbs in the ‘burbs that are ready to roll include our old favourite, coriander. You could give mint and lemon balm a go as well, but be careful to contain them, otherwise they can take over!
Flowers – Add some colour and movement to the patch, and pop in some of these little pretties—dianthus, cornflower, pansy, viola, echinacea, stock, verbena and lupins. Having these around your veggies will give some interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
Fertilise – Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser, is perfect for the seedlings you’ve just popped in. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
Weeding – Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!
Mulching – Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems—especially young seedlings. Choose a low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
Water Smarter – Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering at this time of year—don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!
Native Edibles - April is a good time to plant hardy native edibles that will establish through the cooler months. Warrigal greens and native celery are among the best choices, with sea celery also worth trying in suitable moist or coastal-style conditions. In milder cool districts, young plants of finger lime, riberry and lemon myrtle can also go in now, but they should be protected from frost while establishing. Mulch well and water deeply but not too often to encourage strong root growth over winter.
Green Manure – Green manure crops, including oats, wheat, fava beans, field peas and vetch are good to go now—boosting soil structure, adding organic matter and locking in nitrogen for next season’s heavy feeders.

Temperate Zones

Occasional winter frosts, especially inland. Includes much of southern Queensland, southern NSW, Victoria, inland South Australia, and parts of WA. Summers can get hot, but plants may still need some shade on extreme UV days.

Edibles to plant now – Top time to plant in this part of the world, especially now that it has cooled down a bit! Pop these into your patch this month: cabbage, Asian greens, lettuce, rocket, tatsoi, spring onions, spinach, carrots, celery, cauliflower, broad beans, leeks, onions, radish, turnips and swedes.
Herbs – It’s time to get happy with herbs, so try parsley, basil, coriander (opt for a slow-bolting variety if it’s still warm), rosemary, marjoram and thyme. You could give mint and lemon balm a go as well—but keep them contained, or they’ll take over!
Flowers – Add some colour and movement to your patch with cornflower, calendula, dianthus, pansies, viola, snapdragons, stock, nasturtium, verbena and marigolds. These beauties not only look great but help attract pollinators and beneficial insects.
Fertilise – Plants will appreciate a feed right now. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect—especially for new seedlings. Apply to the soil in the early morning, following the recommended rates on the label.
Weeding – Now’s a great time to tackle weeds. Reducing competition for nutrients, water and space will give your crops a much better chance to thrive—and it’s surprisingly satisfying!
Mulching – Top up mulch across veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds to help suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. Apply after watering, to a depth of around 7cm, and keep it clear of plant stems—especially young seedlings. Choose a mulch that will break down and improve your soil over time.
Water Smarter – Water early in the morning and aim for a deep soak a couple of times a week rather than frequent light watering. Always check soil moisture before watering—cooler conditions mean your garden may need less than you think.
Green Manure – Consider sowing a green manure crop to rejuvenate tired soil. Good options now include fava beans, field peas, oats, wheat and vetch—helping to build organic matter, improve soil structure and lock in nitrogen for future crops.
Native Edibles - April is a great month for planting native edibles in warm temperate regions. Warrigal greens, native celery and sea celery are all good autumn choices, while finger lime, riberry and lemon myrtle can also be planted now while the soil still holds warmth. Keep mulch around plants, maintain even soil moisture, and give young plants some protection from sudden cold snaps as they settle in.
Planning Ahead – As temperatures continue to drop, think about frost protection for young seedlings and succession planting of quick-growing crops like leafy greens. It’s also a great time to plan your winter patch—consider what you’ll want ready for late winter harvests, and prepare beds now so they’re rich, rested and ready to go.

Of course, this is just a rough guide, and many of you will find your situation varies from the above listing, due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather (Mother Nature does like to keep us on our toes) and garden type.

April is often a time that we overindulge, and often end up regretting it! Same deal with our Yummy Yards… don’t overfeed and over-fertilise at this time of year, while your plants may look as though they’re enjoying the extra food, you are probably doing more harm than good.

Information sources:
Native edibles information kindly provided by Bushfood Farms Australia, leading the way toward a truly sustainable future for the rapidly growing native foods industry.

by SGA

May In Your Patch

While the southern parts of Australia have donned winter pyjamas and flannelette sheets, the northern states are still revelling in warm, and mostly sunny autumn days. Regardless of the conditions in your little patch of paradise, there is still loads to do in May in your patch. Get set for those produce plants that need the cooler weather to grow.

May sees a lot of Australia experience the first damaging affects of frost, so why not spend cold or rainy days in the shed making some nice little frost covers from shade cloth offcuts? A couple of old garden stakes, some nails and a bit of (not too) hard yakka will see these covers ready to go when the temperature plummets. Your seedlings will thank you for it!

Climate-Resilient Garden Tips for May

Cooling & Greening

There's never a bad time to consider transforming your nature strip or verge into a thriving green space! Individually, verges are small patches of land; but when considered together they represent a sizeable portion of our urban green space. And planting them can make a big difference, reducing heat absorption, cooling your street, supporting biodiversity and improving neighbourhood amenity. By choosing tough, low‑water use native plants and preparing the soil well, you can create a resilient garden that enhances the local environment. Before you begin, check your local council guidelines and plan a design that’s safe, attractive and easy to maintain. Learn more about how to get started with verge plantings here.

Food-Growing Resilience

May is an ideal month to expand your edible garden with Australian bush foods; plants that are well adapted to local conditions and can add exciting new flavours to your meals. Consider planting species such as lemon myrtle, native mint, midyim berries, finger lime or warrigal greens, all of which grow well in most parts of Australia when given the right conditions. These plants not only diversify your harvest but also help to preserve indigenous knowledge. For guidance on choosing and growing a range of native edible species, explore SGA’s bushfoods information here.

Watering

Even as temperatures cool in May, it’s important not to forget to water. Rainfall can be patchy, and container plants in particular often dry out faster than expected. Regularly check soil moisture with your finger – both in garden beds and pots – and water if needed to avoid stressing autumn‑growing veggies, herbs and ornamentals. Water deeply to encourage strong root growth, and adjust watering frequency based on plant type, soil structure and weather conditions. More advice on effective watering techniques is available here.

Pests & Diseases

With increased soil moisture and cooler nights, slugs and snails become more active and can cause significant damage to young seedlings, leafy greens and emerging wildflowers. Inspect your garden in the evening or early morning when these pests are most active, and hand-remove them where practical. Encourage natural predators such as lizards, frogs and birds by keeping habitat areas intact. You can also use physical barriers like copper tape or rough mulches, and set simple traps such as beer-filled containers sunk into the ground. More guidance on managing slugs and snails is available here.

Garden Tasks & Planting Guides by Region

Warm Areas

Edibles to plant now – Time to plant some winter wonders! Pop in leeks, beetroot, celery, lettuce, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, turnips, onions, kale, kohl rabi, spinach and silverbeet. Give peas a chance this May—they’re a top addition to any patch. Just keep them away from onions and garlic.

Don’t forget to stick in some potatoes… home grown is easy, and incredibly rewarding! Sweet potatoes are also great fun to grow in warmer areas.

Herbs – Herb it up with lemongrass, spring onions, chamomile, thyme, mint, rosemary and lemon balm. Try growing lemon balm in a pot around outdoor areas to keep it contained and help deter mozzies.

Flowers – Pretty up the patch with these flowering fancies—marigolds, lupins, pansies, cornflowers, violas, snapdragons, stock, verbena and lavender (non-invasive varieties, of course!). These will add colour and interest while attracting beneficial insects.

Fertilise – Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser, is perfect for giving them a kick start as they establish. Apply in the early morning and follow the recommended rates. Don’t forget to feed fruit trees too—especially paw paw.

Weeding – Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!

Mulching – Top up mulch on veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds—especially important for weed suppression now. Apply to a depth of about 7cm after watering, keeping it clear of plant stems. Choose a sustainable mulch that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.

Water smarter – Water early in the morning and aim for a deep soak a couple of times a week rather than frequent light watering. Always check soil moisture first—don’t waste water if nature’s already done the job!

Planning ahead – Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. Try millet, oats, lupins or field peas to boost soil health and set yourself up for future planting success.

Cool to Cold Areas

Frequent frosts and cooler summers. Include Tasmania, the southern highlands of NSW, the ACT, southern Victoria, and small pockets of southern SA. Plants need protection from frost and may struggle with heat stress during occasional hot spells.

Edibles to plant now – May is all about settling into cool-season goodness! Pop in broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts and give your brassicas a strong start. Don’t forget to tuck in some sage nearby as a handy companion to help deter pests.

Sow peas and broad beans now to let them establish deep roots over winter—future you will be very grateful! Add in spinach, radish, swedes, turnips and spring onions for a steady supply of winter harvests. And if you’ve got the space, an artichoke is a beautiful (and tasty) addition to the patch.

Herbs – Keep the herb garden ticking along with parsley, coriander (slow-bolting varieties are your friend), thyme, oregano and chives.

Flowers – Brighten things up with dianthus, cornflower, pansy, viola, verbena and lupins. These not only look lovely but will also attract beneficial insects to help keep your patch in balance.

Mulching – Top up mulch across veggie beds, herbs and ornamentals to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Aim for about 7cm deep, and always mulch after watering. Keep it clear of plant stems, especially young seedlings, and choose a sustainable, low-impact option that will feed your soil as it breaks down.

Fertilise – Give new plantings a gentle boost with a seaweed tea or low-impact liquid fertiliser. Apply in the early morning and follow the recommended rates on the label.

Weeding – Weeds love this time of year, so stay on top of them! Reducing competition now means healthier, happier crops. Bonus points for turning weeds into a nutrient-rich weed tea.

Green manure – Got an empty bed? Sow oats, wheat, faba beans or field peas to improve soil structure and fertility ahead of spring planting.

Planning ahead – Bare-rooted fruit trees are just around the corner, so start preparing your beds now with plenty of compost, moisture and mulch. Do a bit of research into varieties and suppliers—especially if you’re chasing something a little unusual or heirloom.

In the shed – Cooler days are perfect for a bit of garden admin. Set up a simple tracking system (a chalkboard or notebook works a treat) to record what you’ve planted, when, and how it performs—your future garden planning will be much easier for it!

Temperate Areas

Edibles to plant now – Still some great planting time left, so pop in Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli. Peas and broad beans can also go in, along with radish, turnips, swedes and spinach for a steady cool-season harvest.

Herbs – It’s time to get happy with herbs! Try chamomile and lemongrass, and give mint and lemon balm a go too—but keep them contained, as they can take over if left unchecked.

Flowers – Add a splash of colour with cornflower, calendula, dianthus, pansies, viola, snapdragons, stock, ageratum and marigolds. These beauties will attract pollinators and beneficial insects while making your patch look the part.

Mulching – Top up mulch on veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds—especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. Apply to a depth of about 7cm after watering, and keep it clear of plant stems, particularly young seedlings. Choose a low-impact mulch that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.

Fertilise – Plants feel the need for a feed now, especially new seedlings. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect. Apply in the early morning and follow the recommended rates on the label.

Weeding – Weeding is an awesome job to tackle this month. Reduce competition between your crops and these space invaders and give your patch a tidy-up—it’s well worth the effort!

Water smarter – Water first thing in the morning, and go for a deep soak a couple of times a week rather than frequent light watering. Always check soil moisture before watering—don’t waste water if nature has already stepped in.

Green manure – Consider a green manure crop to revive an overworked patch. Try faba beans, field peas, oats or wheat to boost soil structure and fertility ahead of the next growing season.

Planning ahead – Bare-rooted fruit tree time is just around the corner, so start preparing beds now. Work in plenty of rich organic matter, add moisture and mulch well—your soil will be in top shape when planting time arrives. Have a think about the varieties you’d like and do a bit of research, especially if you’re after heirloom or unusual options.

Of course, this is just a rough guide, and many of you will find your situation varies from the above due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather (Mother Nature does like to keep us on our toes) and garden type.

by SGA

September In Your Patch

Across much of Australia, blossoms are bursting, bees are back on the job, and gardeners everywhere are feeling the urge to buy "just one more" punnet of seedlings.

September is one of the most exciting months in the patch. The soil is warming, the days are getting longer and suddenly there seems to be a million gardening jobs to do. Don't panic. You don't have to do everything this weekend.

A little preparation now, especially improving your soil and getting on top of weeds, will set you up for months of productive harvests and fewer gardening headaches as summer starts knocking on the door.

This Month's Priorities

Prepare Your Soil
Spring planting success starts below ground. Before planting, improve garden beds with quality compost, well-rotted manure and other organic matter to boost soil health and water-holding capacity. Healthy soil supports stronger root systems and helps plants cope with periods of heat, wind and dry weather later in the season. Once planted, top beds with a layer of mulch to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Stay Ahead of Weeds
Unfortunately, it's not just your veggies that are excited about spring. Weeds have been waiting patiently all winter for their moment in the spotlight. Get them while they're small and save yourself from future headaches.

Rather than sending weeds to waste, turn them into nutrient-rich weed tea. This homemade liquid fertiliser can provide seedlings with a gentle boost and support healthy root growth throughout spring.

Plan for Smarter Water Use
With rainfall becoming less predictable in many parts of Australia, now is an ideal time to think about capturing and storing water before summer arrives. Even a small rainwater tank or rain barrel can provide valuable backup water for veggie patches and container gardens. Consider options such as downpipe diverters, first-flush devices, swales or rain gardens to slow, store and make better use of rainfall around your property.

Support Pollinators and Wildlife
Spring brings gardens alive with bees, butterflies, birds and other beneficial creatures. Add flowering annuals such as nasturtiums, marigolds, snapdragons, phlox, petunias and celosia to provide nectar and pollen while adding colour to your patch. Leave shallow dishes of water available for visiting wildlife and avoid using chemical sprays that may harm beneficial insects.

Watch for Pests
Aphids will inevitably turn up to the spring party without an invitation, clustering on the fresh new growth of roses, fruit trees, herbs and vegetables. While they can seem alarming, they also provide an important food source for beneficial insects including ladybirds, lacewings and hoverflies. If numbers become excessive, squash them by hand, hose them off or use a homemade soap spray rather than broad-spectrum pesticides.

What to Plant in Your Region

Warm Areas

Rarely experience frost, or only very light frost. Includes northern coastal and inland regions, generally north of Coffs Harbour across to Geraldton.

Spring has arrived and there is plenty to plant.

Edibles to plant now: Rocket, silverbeet, spring onions, Chinese cabbage, mizuna, lettuce, tatsoi, zucchini, pumpkin, leeks, capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, tomatoes and watermelon.

Herbs: Parsley, sweet basil, chamomile, dill, coriander, marjoram, oregano, catnip and thyme all thrive at this time of year. Mint can also be planted but is best grown in a container.

Fruit: Passionfruit, pawpaw, avocado, banana, citrus, macadamia and guava can all be planted now.

Soil Builders: Green manure crops such as millet, lablab, amaranth and mung bean are excellent choices for improving soil health and fertility.

Cool to Cold Areas

Frequent frosts and cooler conditions. Includes Tasmania, the ACT, southern Victoria, southern NSW highlands and parts of southern South Australia.

Spring is beginning to make itself felt, but frost may still be a consideration in some locations.

Edibles to plant now: Leeks, onions, parsley, parsnips, cauliflower, peas, radish, silverbeet, lettuce, swedes and turnips.

A note of caution: It may be tempting, but it's still a little early for tomatoes in most cool-climate areas. Wait until frost danger has passed.

Herbs: Chamomile, dill, coriander, echinacea, catnip and thyme can all be planted after the last frost. Lemon balm is another excellent option but is best contained in pots.

Soil Builders: Faba beans, barley, lupins, wheat and field peas make excellent spring green manure crops.

Temperate Areas

Occasional winter frosts. Includes much of inland Australia, southern NSW, Victoria, South Australia and parts of Western Australia.

September is one of the busiest planting months of the year in temperate gardens.

Edibles to plant now: Celery, silverbeet, lettuce, leeks, spring onions, climbing beans, cucumber, sweet corn, tomatoes, carrots, radishes and Jerusalem artichokes can all be planted once frost risk has passed.

Herbs: Parsley, chives, catnip, sage, oregano, rosemary, thyme and marjoram are all excellent additions to the spring garden.

Fruit: Blueberries, passionfruit, pawpaw, avocado, banana, citrus, olives (non-weedy varieties) and guava can all be planted now.

Soil Builders: Chickpeas and barley are useful green manure crops that can help rejuvenate garden beds before summer crops go in.

Seasonal Jobs

Check Citrus for Gall Wasp

September is your last chance to deal with citrus gall wasp before adults emerge. Prune affected growth well below the gall and dispose of it in the rubbish rather than composting. Cutting into the gall before disposal helps expose larvae to air and reduces survival rates. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers that encourage the soft new growth favoured by gall wasp.

Mulch Before Summer

Think of mulch as sunscreen, insulation and a water-saving outer layer rolled into one. Your soil will thank you later when those first hot northerlies arrive.

Maintain Your Tools

Clean, sharpen and oil garden tools before the busy growing season gets fully underway. Well-maintained tools last longer, perform better and can help reduce the spread of plant diseases.

Build Healthy Soil This Spring

September is one of the best times of year to invest in soil health.

Feed Your Garden

As plants come out of winter dormancy, many benefit from a gentle feed. Seaweed tonics help support root development and improve resilience to environmental stress, while worm tea can boost soil biology and nutrient cycling throughout the growing season.

Indoor plants will also appreciate some attention this month. Repot overcrowded specimens and follow up with a seaweed tonic to help reduce transplant stress.

Sow a Green Manure Crop

If you have empty beds waiting for summer vegetables, consider sowing a green manure crop. Fast-growing plants such as millet, mung bean, lablab, barley, field peas and faba beans help improve soil structure, suppress weeds, support beneficial microbes and build organic matter for future crops.

September is a month of possibility. As gardens burst back to life, it's the ideal time to prepare beds, improve soil and get planting. A little effort now will reward you with healthier plants, bigger harvests and a more resilient garden as the warmer months arrive.

Remember that every garden has its own unique microclimate. Use this guide as a starting point, observe what works in your conditions, and adapt your gardening to suit your local environment. Enjoy watching your patch wake up after winter!

Further reading:

by SGA

December In Your Patch

Life really starts ramping up festive wise at this time of year, so it is important to know some December gardening tips! Hopefully you’ve already put in loads of produce plants but it’s not too late to get some more growing, especially if you’ve had the pleasure of already harvesting some plants. Keep up the good work in the garden - despite the rising heat there’s still plenty to do this month in your patch. And with Christmas coming, there are plenty of ways you can create gifts for family and friends. Get some tips!

And if you’re heading off on a trip this break, read our tips on preventing “holiday-itis” in the garden. It’s an all too common occurrence that can turn the most beautiful backyard into a garden grave in a matter of weeks! Give your garden the gift of a bit of your time this December… you’ll be so pleased you did!

Warm Areas

Frost free or occasional light frosts (North from about Coffs Harbour and all the way across to the west to Geraldton)

It’s pretty warm, and fairly humid this month, but there are a few things you could still pop into the patch. You can put in some capsicum, chilli, eggplant, carrots, lettuce, tomatoes and zucchini.
Too hot for most herbs, but you could try some lemongrass.
Still time to pop in some asparagus… just find a cooler spot in the patch.
It’s not too late for watermelon, bananas, mangos and passionfruit. Try a Bromaliaceae that fruits as well, sound crazy? Pop in a pineapple and see… perfect for summer Daiquiris!
Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings put in during November. They are probably in need of a bit of a feed by now. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
Try some companion plants as well as these pretties: marigolds, cosmos and sunflowers. Popping these in around your veggies will give some colour and interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year, try millet, lablab, or cow pea. This will improve your soil incredibly and for a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort! You just have to have a bit of forethought to what you want to plant in that space come the time to ‘dig over.’
Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important if you are heading off this holidays. A hot summer tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems. Especially young seedlings. Choose a sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
On non-gardening days head out to the shed and construct a couple of shade cloth tents. They don’t have to elaborate, just a simple, moveable structure that you can pop over the top of some of the sun sensitive veggies (like eggplant, capsicum and others) as the heat becomes more intense. Think of it as slip, slop, slap for plants! Pop these around where required, especially on high UV days, windy days, and during your holidays.
Going away? Consider installing a drip irrigation system in your patch before you leave. These systems deliver water where it is needed, the roots, and when covered by mulch, are invisible garden lifesavers! Install on a tap timer and you’re set! Make sure you choose one appropriate to the needs of your plants; they come with a variety of ‘drips per minute.’
Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your produce plants and the weeds and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding! Weeds use nutrients that you have set aside specifically for your produce plants, don’t let it leach away!
Protect your pot plants while you are away this summer. Mulch the top of the pots, sit them in a saucer of water (or the bathtub if it gets enough light) and you’ll be set! Or even run dripper lines to them from your main irrigation pipes.
Give the gift that keeps on giving. A productive pot plant! There are potted plants to suit every back pocket, and some awesome selections include chillies, cherry tomatoes, citrus, olives or a mixed herb pot. Get creative… and get giving!

Cool to Cold Areas

Low temperatures for extended periods of time (all of Tasmania, most of Victoria, the southern highlands of NSW, the ACT and a tiny southern bit of SA)

It’s a great time of year in the garden in this part of the world, and it’s not too late to pop these into the herb patch: dill, basil, chives, parsley, rosemary, pyrethrum, sage and thyme. Pop some mint into a couple of pots - good to grow now but it can take over if planted in the patch!
Add some of these highly productive plants to your patch this month; carrots, cucumber, eggplants, lettuce, french beans, leeks, pumpkins, silverbeet, squash, sweet corn and zucchini.
It doesn’t all have to be all edible, flowering plants assist to attract insects for pollination as well as making the area look great. Plant out some of these; celosia, petunias, snapdragons, phlox, marigolds and verbena.
Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important if you are heading off this holidays. A hot summer tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems. Especially young seedlings. Choose a sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
Green manure crops, including soy bean, wheat, millet and mung beans are good to go now. Improve that veggie patch that may be a bit nutrient deficient. Doing this will ensure that you are ready for the next seasons heavy feeding plants.
Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings planted in during November. They are probably in need of a bit of a feed by now. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
On non-gardening days head out to the shed and construct a couple of shade cloth tents. They don’t have to elaborate, just a simple, moveable structure that you can pop over the top of some of the sun sensitive veggies (like eggplant, capsicum and others) as the heat becomes more intense. Think of it as slip, slop, slap for plants! Pop these around where required, especially on high UV days, windy days, and during your holidays.
Going away? Consider installing a drip irrigation system in your patch before you leave. These systems deliver water where it is needed, the roots, and when covered by mulch, are invisible garden lifesavers! Install on a tap timer and you’re set! Make sure you choose one appropriate to the needs of your plants; they come with a variety of ‘drips per minute.’
Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding! Weeds use nutrients that you have set aside specifically for your produce plants, don’t let it leach away!
Protect your pot plants while you are away this summer. Mulch the top of the pots, sit them in a saucer of water (or the bathtub if it gets enough light) and you’ll be set! Or even run dripper lines to them from your main irrigation pipes.
Give the gift that keeps on giving. A productive pot plant! There are potted plants to suit every back pocket, and some awesome selections include chillies, cherry tomatoes, citrus, olives or a mixed herb pot. Get creative… and get giving!

Temperate Zones

Occasional winter frosts (pretty much the rest of Australia, most of the inland, some areas of Victoria, most of SA and the southern area of WA)

It is pretty warm, so if you are heading away for a while, it’s probably best to avoid planting at this stage. If you are hanging around at home, why not try some of these favourites; silverbeet, lettuce, leek, beans, corn, squash (summer), leek, eggplants, beetroot, carrots, chilli, cucumber, pumpkin and zucchini.
For some super herbs in the temperate areas, try basil (both sweet and purple), parsley, pyrethrum and lemongrass. Mint can be planted now but you might want to keep it in a nice sized pot, just to prevent serious mint invasion!
Why not try some lovely flowering stuff in your patch as well. Nasturtium, verbena, petunias, marigolds, phlox and celosia are great at attracting pollinators and beneficial insects to your patch. They add a touch of pretty to your patch too.
Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year, try cow pea, mung bean, soy bean and millet. This will improve your soil incredibly, and return some nutrients that are needed for healthy vigorous growth. With a bit of forward planning you’ll find it well worth the effort!
Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings planted in during November. They’ll be ready for a bit of a feed by now. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important if you are heading off this holidays. A hot summer tip is to mulch after watering the patch; to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems, especially young seedlings. Choose sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down like pea or lucerne straw.
On non-gardening days, why not head out to the shed, and construct a couple of shade cloth tents. They don’t have to elaborate, just a simple, moveable structure that you can pop over the top of some of the sun sensitive veggies (like eggplant, capsicum and others) as the heat becomes more intense. Think of it as slip, slop, slap for plants! Pop these around where required, especially on high UV days, windy days, and during your holidays.
Going away? Consider installing a drip irrigation system in your patch before you leave. These systems deliver water where it is needed, the roots, and when covered by mulch, are invisible garden lifesavers! Install on a tap timer and you’re set! Make sure you choose one appropriate to the needs of your plants; they come with a variety of ‘drips per minute.’
Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding! Weeds use nutrients that you have set aside specifically for your produce plants, don’t let it leach away!
Protect your pot plants while you are away this summer. Mulch the top of the pots, sit them in a saucer of water, or the bathtub if it gets enough light, and you’ll be set! Or even run dripper lines to them from your main irrigation pipes.
Give the gift that keeps on giving. A productive pot plant! There are potted plants to suit every back pocket, and some awesome selections include chillies, cherry tomatoes, citrus, olives or a mixed herb pot. Get creative… and get giving!

Of course, this is just a rough guide, many of you will find your situation varies from the above listing, due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather and garden type.

But the one thing that remains the same for all zones and regions is this: the festive season is better outdoors! So, grab a cool beverage, slip, slop slap, and spend some time under your favourite tree, admiring your patch!

The SGA team would like to wish all of our readers (and their gardens) a safe and happy holiday season… see you back here next year!

Information sources: Bagnall, Lyn, Easy organic gardening and moon planting, published by Scribe Publications, VIC. McFarlane, Annette, Organic Vegetable Gardening, published by ABC Books, Sydney, NSW.

Photos: Joanne Bate, Elaine Shallue, Mary Trigger

by SGA

All About Weeds

Let’s find out more about why we call some plants weeds and why they are not all really bad. So that we can think usefully about removing unwanted species we need to get a full picture of their negative and, dare I say it, positive impacts.

There are many interpretations of what a weed is, dependent on, amongst other things, personal preference for plants and their particular role, use or contribution to a home, person or landscape. We thank Bridey Oliver for research and draft of this article.

What is a Weed?

“….a weed is simply a plant which in a particular place at a particular time arouses human dislike…”

William Stearn -Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society 1956¹.

However at the environmental and agricultural level there is less room for personal preferences as weedy plants can have serious impacts.

Various bodies have deﬁned what a weed is. Whilst not dissimilar, they are not exactly the same.

A weed is plant that is growing where it is not wanted²
A plant that requires some form of action to reduce its harmful effects on the economy, the environment, human health and amenity³.
A species that adversely affects biodiversity, the economy or society⁴.

A useful overview was provided in a University of Melbourne course handbook⁵. “Weeds are plants that grow where they are not wanted, can cause health problems in humans (hayfever, contact dermatitis etc), cause health problems in livestock, reduce the aesthetics of an area and can compete with desired plants for light, water and nutrients. A successful weed is a plant that can have high levels of seed production, seed dormancy, can propagate from other plant parts such as bulbs, rhizomes and can live a long time in the soil. Some weedy plants propagate by both seed and vegetative parts. They tend to establish quickly and can quickly occupy disturbed land areas. Many successful weeds can tolerate conditions that may be more challenging for non-weedy species. I.e, drier or wetter sites, hotter or shadier places. “

Many of our worst pest plants (weeds) are escapees from gardens. In fact, around 65% of pest plants that naturalised (became established) in Australia between 1971 and 1995 were imported as ornamental plants for gardens⁶. For example some of the worst weeds include plants like agapanthus and arum Lilies. Let's not forget, though, that native Australian plants can also become weeds.

Impacts of Weeds

Bearing in mind that a plant’s classification as a weed can be quite subjective, many plants considered as weeds can also quite useful. Potential benefits or drawbacks depend on a number of factors including species of weed, the location and the needs or desires of the user.

POSITIVE	NEGATIVE
Provide a cheap/free source of food containing high levels of vitamins and minerals if correctly chosen.	Weeds provide competition for nutrients, light, water and space and can reduce those available for the desired species.
Can provide food or habitat for species of fauna (eg. Bees)	Weeds can provide a breeding ground or home for a number of garden pests and diseases.
Important medicinal plants	In the broader environment invasive plants can displace native species, having a serious negative effect on native habitat (i.e. reducing food or nesting sites) potentially leading to extinctions.
Weeds, like many other plants, can give an indication of soil condition.	In Agriculture weeds can be costly, through herbicide use to reduce or remove them and through reduced yields, through injury or illness to livestock (in the case of toxic plants), or contamination
	Some weeds are also poisonous or irritating to people

Know your weeds

Being able to identify the common weeds in your garden allows you to take effective action for reducing them (if you want to of course). The State of Victoria, under the Catchment and Land Protection Act 1994 has declared a number of plants as noxious weeds. This means that they are harmful or have the potential to be harmful to the environment or cause economic harm or be harmful to humans. Plants classified as noxious weeds are placed into one of four categories; State Prohibited Weeds, Regionally Prohibited Weeds, Regionally Controlled Weeds, Restricted Weeds.

Classification of Weeds⁷

Classification		Description	Example
State Prohibited Weeds		Are either not yet present in Victoria or present in very low numbers but present a significant threat if allowed to invade. The State Government of Victoria is responsible for eradicating these weeds, but may direct landowners to take action on them.	Mexican Feather Grass - Nassella tenuissima Water Hyacinth Eichhornia crassipes
Regionally Prohibited Weeds	P	Not widely spread through a region (catchment area defined within the CaLP 1994) but have the potential to do so. They must be managed with eradication the goal. Landowners (private and public) must take all reasonable steps to eradicate these weeds on their land	Artichoke Thistle - Cynara cardunculus if prohibited in the Goulburn, North East and West Gippland Catchments.
Regionally Controlled Weeds	C	Usually widespread in a region. Control measures must be undertaken by landowners to prevent growth and spread of weeds on their land	Hawthorn - Crataegus monogyna in the Goulburn and Port Phillip and Western Port Catchments
Restricted Weeds	R	Plants that post a very high risk of spread within Victoria and also pose a threat to another state or Territory. It is prohibited to trade seeds, plants of these species.	Hawthorn - Crataegus monogyna in the Mallee, North Central, Corangamite and Glenelg Catchments

Many local government areas (LGA) and Catchment Management Authorities provide identification resources for plants considered weeds or problem plants in the local area and management methods. These lists can usually be found online at the LGA websites or sometimes in hard copy in council offices, information stands/centres in parks and gardens. For example the Mornington Peninsula Shire Council produce a brochure that is available in hard copy and online to help identify invasive/pest plants in that area⁸.

Online weed databases such as Weeds Australia⁹ which is a website run by the Centre for Invasive Species Solutions (a research and extension partnerships between Australian Federal and State Governments, CSIRO, Government bodies and Universities).

For other sources of information relating to weeds, identification and management see our reference and resources lists at the end of this article.

Weed Categorisation

It is possible to categorise weedy plants a number of ways; by life cycle, life form, by survival strategies, by impact, amongst others. Categorising weeds can inform the most effective way to deal with them or if removal is necessary. The two easiest, therefore most useful to most people are life cycle and life form.

LIFE CYCLE	LIFE FORMS
ANNUAL - Complete their lifecycle in one growing season. They need to ﬂower and then set seed each year in order to continue the next generation.	BROAD LEAF (DICOTYLEDON) - emerge and develop two seed leaves, ﬂat and broad leaves and the veins resemble a spreading network and a taproot system.
BIENNIAL - These plants complete their lifecycle in two years. In the ﬁrst year they germinate and develop leaves and in the second year they ﬂower and set seed.	GRASSES (MONCOTYLEDON) - emerge and develop with one seed leaf, has long and narrow leaves that are characterised by parallel veins and a ﬁbrous root system.
PERENNIAL - These live for many years and ﬂower and set seed each year. Perennials may be ﬁxed in position, generally only reproducing by seed, or spreading. Perennials which spread do so by the development of their vegetative parts including stolons, runners, rhizomes, corms, tubers, bulbs and bulbils as well as reproduction by seed.

Of course, if you’d like to learn to identify weeds for other uses (e.g. edible weeds) there are books to assist with identification and, in most Australian states, weed walks/foraging walks with experts who show you some of the edible and easily identifiable weeds.

http://www.edibleweeds.com.au/

https://www.eatthatweed.com/

https://pfaf.org/user/Default.aspx

We are very grateful to Bridey Oliver for the research and first draft of this article and to financial support from the Lord Mayor's Charitable Foundation.

References

Stearn 1956. Review of Weeds by W.C. Muenscher. Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society. p285.
Richardson, DM,Pyšek P,Carlton JT. A compendium of essential concepts and terminology in invasion ecology. Fifty years of invasion ecology. The legacy of Charles Elton (ed. by D.M. Richardson), pp. 409–420, Wiley-Blackwell, Oxford.
Department of Environment and Water Resouces 2007. The Australian Weed Strategy. p. 21.
Groves RH, Boden R, Lonsdale WM 2005. Jumping the Garden Fence. CSIRO Report prepared for WWF.
University of Melbourne Burnley Lectures - 2016. NRMT20016. Plant Protection - Weed Management
Commonwealth of Australia 2017. Australian Weeds Strategy 2017 – 2027.
Agriculture Victoria. Invasive Plant Classifications. 2020. https://agriculture.vic.gov.au/biosecurity/weeds/invasive-plant-classifications
https://www.mornpen.vic.gov.au/Your-Property/Environment/Flora-Fauna-Biodiversity/Environmental-Noxious-Weeds
Weeds Australia. 2021. Centre for Invasive Species Solutions. Identify a Weed in Your Region. https://weeds.org.au/identify/

Other Useful Resources

Grubb, A Raser-Rowland A. 2012. A Weed Forager’s Handbook.

Aldous D. 1991. Weed Control for the Home Gardener. Lothian Australian Garden Series.

Herrera PJ, Dorado J, Ribeiro A.2014 A Novel Approach for Weed Type Classification Based on Shape Descriptors and a Fuzzy Decision-Making Method. Sensors14, 15304-15324.

http://www.edibleweeds.com.au/

by SGA

Gardening Fun

This story from Stephanie Tulai is a wonderful example of gardening fun.

While listening to my favourite James Blunt playlist through the “buds” on my phone as I watered my winter veg in SE Qld, I peered closer at one of my “broccolini” plants. Now I bought these seedlings as the sprouting kind so I was a bit disappointed to find they were actually the classic broccoli plants. I’m a single gal, so it makes sense to plan for picking smaller portions rather than one large one. Then I spied what was boldly peeking up at me, and my heart flipped as I saw how big one of my broccoli heads had become. ‘It’s bigger than my own brain,’ I thought. So I picked that big mother.

She weighed in at 634grams. Although it was under half the weight of an adult brain I was still impressed and, after all, I’m sure there’s isn’t much going on in a “broccoli brain.” After all nature lives and creates by other means than we do. Ironically though, it did match my current weight in kilos: 63.4 and my age is 63 also and when I first planted it I would have been 63 & 4 months ….just sayin’.

I had no idea it was even there as my raised beds are covered in bug-proof netting and I’m gazing in other places as I water and the mind wanders through loving repetition. Also none of its punnet friends were even close to this one’s unexpected magnificence as it sneaked above and beyond it’s call of duty. It wanted to be different. Perhaps it was getting back at me for my unkind thoughts when I realised they were not what I paid for.

In honour, I named it Peter as I’m a racing car fan and Mr Peter Brock was my favourite driver when he was hot in his Holden. It deserved nothing less than a star’s name for the star it was in my world regardless of its motives.

Once in my kitchen after I had finished watering the rest of my garden, I danced with “Peter” around the kitchen to a James Blunt song called When I Find Love Again (that happened to pop up on my playlist at the time). It was like I was holding the vegetable’s version of the head of my favourite super car star (lol). Perhaps he is destined for a hot lap or two around my wok in the not too distant future. A fitting end I would say.

But as with success, even unexpected ones like that, I must also share my recent bitterness of failure, a failure to pay more attention to the seed packet details, like the actual name of it and not just looking at the picture. I bought what I thought was broccolini. As they grew I noticed they had different leaves to any broccolini I had grown before. With watering and fertilizing they quickly flourished into tall but robust plants with heaps of sprouts and I clasped my hands together at the prospect that these could feed me for many weeks, perhaps longer. In reality they were Broccoletti Raab Rapini. They were a mystery to me.

Before I go on to explain how the Rapini tasted there was another memorable experience of personal tastes not to die for. It was when an ear disease, that I still have some 27 years later, first began to manifest. I went to see a Chinese herbalist on the Gold Coast. He took my pulse as a form of diagnosis and I described my symptoms. Behind the counter were rows upon rows of massive jars of “ weird things”. It was like a scene in Rosalee and Monroe’s exotic cures shop in the Grimm tv series. But at least I didn’t feel like I had to poke anything to make sure it wasn’t alive.

I watched him weigh some of those curiosities and place them into a paper bag. I was to make a tea out of the concoction of bark, roots and well I had no idea what half of it was and drink a cup morning and night. After the first slug it took me a while to clean up the mess. It was like one of those moments at a dinner table when you take a drink and end up spraying it all over someone after they said something outrageously funny before you could swallow it. But there was nothing funny about this moment, nothing funny at all. If someone handed me this stuff as I died of thirst in the Sahara Desert I would croak through cracked and crusted lips, ‘do you have anything else?’ Yes it was that bad. If someone took a photo of my face the moment I tasted it and froze it in time as the only image that there ever was on record of me I would not be a happy vegemite about that either that’s for sure. And so all this is leading a trail back to my short taste experience of the Raab Rapini‘s -Taste of the Mediterranean.

I steamed a couple of stems to have with my dinner (for those familiar with it in this now diverse country of ours… remember I am thinking it’s broccolini ) and after the first mouthful the bitterness was so overwhelming my liver almost had a heart attack. I have learned since that there is a particular way to cook them with pasta that makes them more palatable and they are in the same subspecies as the turnip, hence they have the characteristic bitter taste of this group.

If I had planted a whole heap of them I would have shoved them all down the throat of my garden mulcher just so I could watch it spit it out as well. But like coriander you are either a lover or a hater and apparently there is a gene if you have it that causes cilantro aversion. Perhaps it is the same for bitterness, some like it and some don’t but for me I have to say, I will certainly take a second look at those labels on seed packets from now on.

by SGA

Green Manure

If you have a bit of space in your garden, growing green manures or cover crops is a great way to improve soil fertility and add organic matter to your soil. They can also be used as weed suppressants, and assist in the control of pest and diseases. So what are they, and where and when can you use them?

What is green manure?

Green manures or cover crops describe a range of temporary, fast growing leafy plants which are sown from seed generally in autumn or spring, grown through the next few weeks or months (depending on the season), and then, just before they begin to flower and set seed, they are slashed and turned in to the soil, or used as mulch for whatever's to be planted next.

Why is it grown?

You might consider growing a green manure crop in a new garden area to supress weeds, improve drainage, reduce compaction, stabilise the area to limit erosion, and improve the soil before you put in permanent plantings. Green manure crops are often used in vegetable gardens, in beds, or parts of beds which are given a break from vegetable production for a season to improve the soil and set the bed up for the next crop.

Vegetable gardeners might have some space to spare after the summer harvest, and if you have a crop rotation system, you could think of incorporating a green manure crop into the rotation – check out our guide to crop rotation incorporating green manure crops here.

When to plant

There are different green manure crops that will thrive in different climates and different seasons.
If you want to plant a cool/cold season crop and you live in:

• an area with cool/cold winters (Tasmania, Victoria and southern New South Wales, southern South Australia and southern Western Australia), the best sowing time is early autumn. If it's been very dry, wait for a bit of autumn rain before sowing. You can also sow cool/cold season crops in these areas in early spring;
• a warmer area (northern New South Wales and southern Queensland, warmer parts of South Australia and Western Australia) plant cool/cold season crops a little later – in April or May;
• in a frost free area, cool/cold season crops can be planted from autumn until the end of winter.

If you want to plant a warm season crop, and you live in a colder area, plant in spring, once there's no risk of frost. In warmer areas, plant in summer whenever you can rely on rainfall, or are able to irrigate. If you live in a tropical area, you can plant warm season crops throughout the year, so long as there's moisture available.

What plants to grow

Cool/cold season crops:
Fava beans, broad beans, tick beans, fenugreek, lupins, oats, subclover, woolly pod vetch, ryecorn, yellow and black mustard seed, other brassicas, feed oats, wheat or barley.

Warm season crops:
Buckwheat, cowpea, French white millet, Japanese millet, lablab, marigolds, mung bean and soybean

Benefits of Particular Plants

Different crops have different benefits, and can be grown in combination. Seed sellers will often sell individual seed types and green manure mixes. Some examples:

Biofumigants, like marigolds (Tagetes patula) planted in spring, brassicas (Brassica napus and Brassica campestris) and mustard, planted in autumn help to control root knot nematodes and root rot fungal pathogens. These crops must be dug in to release beneficial gases as they decompose.

Legumes, like lucerne, clover, beans and peas, which fix nitrogen and will make it available to whatever follows the green manure crop.

Weed smotherers include lablab, cowpea, lucerne and buckwheat.

Establishing your crop

it's usually as simple as choosing your seed mix, clearing the bed of weeds, broadcasting the seed and raking to cover, but check the seed packet to see whether your seeds have any special requirements. Most green manures will need moisture to germinate and while they're growing, so depending on rainfall, you might need to water the seeds in when you sow them, and to give them a hose as they grow.

Harvesting

For maximum benefit, harvest as your crop starts to flower – once the crop has fully flowered (and then set seed) the nitrogen content decreases, and, if the plant goes to seed, you'll likely see it pop up all over the place next season. You can either dig the crop in, or cut it and use it as mulch on the bed where it grew, or around the garden. If you decide to dig the crop into the soil, it will break down faster if you mow or chop it up a bit first. Allow 4 to 6 weeks after you dig the crop in before planting new seeds in the bed. If you need to plant seeds sooner, use your green manure crop as a surface mulch.

Obtaining seeds

Some garden centres supply mixes of different seeds or sell them individually. However, you can make your own selection quite cheaply by buying seeds of many individual species from bulk food stores which sell nuts, grains and pulses. These normally germinate well, but it might be wise to buy only a small quantity first and test their viability. This can be easily done by placing a few on moist tissue paper in a small container and watching for root formation.

by SGA

SGA

Prevention

Use of appropriate plants

Garden hygiene

Good Gardening (Horticultural) Practices 1

Provide Habitat for Beneficial Organisms 2

Some useful items to add to your garden

References

Manual Removal

Picking Off/Fly Swat

Water Jet – Hose

Pruning

Barriers and Traps

Copper Tape

Netting

Horticultural Glue

Corrugated Cardboard

Dry/Powder Barriers

Traps

Sticky Insect Traps

Snail/Slug (Gastropod) Traps

Bug Zappers

Repellents and Attractants

Companion Planting

Visual Bird Deterrents

Pheromone Lures

Reduce Use of Chemical Pesticides

Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series

PART 4: Water Smart Gardening

Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series

PART 3: Low Impact Pest Management

Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series

PART 2: Soil Farming

Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series

PART 1: Composting and Worm Farming

What's happening in the garden this Month?

This Month's Priorities

What to Plant in Your Region

Warm Areas

Cool to Cold Areas

Temperate Areas

Build Healthy Soil This Summer

Feed Your Garden

Grow a Green Manure Crop

This Month's Priorities

What to Plant in Your Region

Warm Areas

Cool to Cold Areas

Temperate Areas

Build Healthy Soil & Garden Resilience

Feed Soil, Not Just Plants

Consider a Green Manure Crop

Keep Compost Working

Save Garden Resources

Plan for Autumn Success

Climate-Resilient Garden Tips for April

Cooling & Greening

Support Biodiversity

Food-Growing Resilience

Pests & Diseases

Garden Tasks & Planting Guides by Region

Warm Areas

Cool to Cold Areas

Temperate Zones

Climate-Resilient Garden Tips for May

Cooling & Greening

Food-Growing Resilience

Watering

Pests & Diseases

Garden Tasks & Planting Guides by Region

Warm Areas

Cool to Cold Areas

Temperate Areas

This Month's Priorities

What to Plant in Your Region

Warm Areas

Cool to Cold Areas

Temperate Areas

Seasonal Jobs

Check Citrus for Gall Wasp

Good Gardening (Horticultural) Practices ¹

Provide Habitat for Beneficial Organisms ²

Classification of Weeds⁷