WiseGardening Aims

WiseGardening aims to show the risks of garden chemicals to bees, birds, frogs and other species when we try to control pests, disease and weeds and help you make informed choices.

Why Use WiseGardening?

The broad community which uses chemical garden products has a right to know risks associated with their use.  These products can affect:

  • Users if they come into contact with the product or breathe in vapours – some products are quite toxic.
  • Species that visit or live in our gardens – birds, bees, fish, worms, frogs and a range of mammals, such as pets, especially if the chemicals persist in the soil.
  • Aquatic species as well as fish – if the chemicals can be washed through the soil winding up in streams and other waterways they may harm not only fish, but also other aquatic organisms.

So knowing which product to select, when faced with a plethora of ‘plantastic products’ in the local garden centre, or knowing if we should still use old products with stained labels stored in our garden sheds, can be very daunting. In order to minimise these risks we all need to know what they are.

WiseGardening has been developed to help all of us achieve international sustainable development goals through reducing some of the impacts that our society has had on the planet. This Australia-first guide aims to be rigorous in its ratings so it is based on publicly available evidence-based, scientific information from university and government sourcesSGA has assessed then rated over 850 garden chemical products commercially available in Australia. Because SGA prefers to avoid using chemicals, we also present alternative non-chemical methods which we recommend as the first line of defence for garden problems, but we recognise that there are times when a chemical product is a necessary choice.

Similar guides are available for specific areas overseas, such as Europe or the USA (www.growsmartgrowsafe.org) but these are not tailored for products and formulations used in Australia.

As you might expect, since these products are termed pesticides and weedicides where the suffix “icide” means “kill”, many chemical products, as well as killing their targets, carry risks to users and other species on our amazing planet – even when they are used very carefully.

Manufacturers alert users to these risks on their product labels, instructions for use and Safety Data Sheets.  However, when consumers buy products they may not consult these sources in-store to compare products and may not even read or understand the advice provided before using the products.  WiseGardening provides an easy way of comparing products for their impacts on humans and other species on the planet.

WiseGardening does not:

  • Provide comment on product effectiveness in achieving its purpose, or
  • Endorse, or condemn any product, manufacturer, brand or supplier.

Principles Underpinning WiseGardening

  1. Transparency – We aim to augment the availability of information that manufacturers provide about their garden products. To this end, WiseGardening uses publicly available information from many sources. (See Our Ratings and Assessment Process)
  2. Accuracy – This means that assessments are systematic and based on robust scientific research from reputable sources. However, sometimes this information is unavailable due to commercial considerations and sometimes due to out of date or incomplete information. Where little or no information about a product or ingredient is available this is indicated in WiseGardening.
  3. Independence and objectivity – No preference to any products or for any manufacturer is given.
  4. Comprehensiveness and inclusiveness – We aim to include all chemical garden products available in Australia for non-agricultural use. Products available in other countries are not included since, elsewhere, they mostly differ in names and ingredients. We have also not restricted assessments to commercially manufactured products and have included alternative mostly non-chemical approaches. If a product is missing it is not intentional; we aim to include all relevant products.  We have not considered home-made mixes of household chemicals since it is not possible to obtain any accurate information about ingredients used in these preparations.
  5. Currency – The assessment is routinely updated and products are frequently assessed to determine if their ingredients, or details in the product description, have changed. Information sources for ingredients are also frequently checked to ensure the latest publicly available scientific assessments are used. As products are often discontinued by manufacturers, we retain these products in our database so that assessments can be made of new products against discontinued products across product types. Sometimes, new products have the same name as a discontinued product but have a different composition.  We aim to ensure that assessments of current products are no older than 1 year.
  6. Ease of Use – The rating system should provide users with data that is accessible, able to allow comparison and easy to use. Data entry for WiseGardening has been structured so that assessment is performed automatically, drawing on ingredient information within the database.
  7. Compatible with UN Sustainable Development Goals –
    • Goal 3: Ensure healthy lives and promote well-being for all at all ages
    • Goal 12: Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns
    • Goal 13: Take urgent action to combat climate change and its impacts
    • Goal 15: Sustainably manage forests, combat desertification, halt and reverse land degradation, halt biodiversity loss
  8. Fostering productive change – encouraging the community and industry, through education, to engage with the change required to achieve a safer and more sustainable world.

Who are We?

Sustainable Gardening Australia (SGA) is a not-for-profit, non-government organization with a strong interest (passion) for enabling gardeners to grow their own food, protect their health and that of the planet and all that is naturally on it.  It has charitable status under the federal government’s Register of Environmental Organisations and is registered with the Australian Charities and Not-for-Profit Commission (ACNC).

WiseGardening was initiated over 20 years ago as a collaboration between SGA, Paul Gibson-Roy from Burnley Horticultural College (now part of the University of Melbourne), the garden centre Bulleen Art and Garden and local government.

Since 2016, our SGA team has further developed and refined WiseGardening to make it available as part of our web presence. Development has been supported by a 1 year grant from the Telematics Trust as a project to provide community education.

The Team

Dr. Sharron Pfueller (biochemistry, cell biology, environment, sustainability),  Dr. Colin Allison (chemistry, environment, climate change, database development), Angelo Eliades (horticulture, permaculture, toxicology), Bridey Oliver (horticulture), Jane Rollinson (horticulture, information mapping), Michelle Dyason (natural methods of pest control).

For full details of our methodology please see Our Assessment and Rating Process.

Who Might use WiseGardening?

Intended users of WiseGardening include home gardeners, managers of Parks and Reserves such as local government, those who maintain public green space, community gardeners, those concerned with human health and natural life on the planet.

Go to WiseGardening ratings

WiseGardening Assessment and Rating Process

The WiseGardening Assessment and Rating Process is dedicated to continuous improvement of methodology to accurately assess risks of chemical garden products and to openly and honestly inform users of them.

What Risks Do We Assess?

Products and their ingredients are assessed for risks to:

  • Humans and other mammals
  • Bees and other beneficial insects
  • Birds
  • Fish and other aquatic organisms
  • Frogs
  • Earthworms

Other properties of the ingredients are assessed for:

  • Mobility i.e. the likelihood that they will be transported into streams or other waterways during irrigation or rainfall
  • Persistence in soil
  • Whether they have been reported as carcinogenic, endocrine disruptors or genotoxic.

What data have we used?

Criteria for use of data

To be used in the rating system, data needed to be:

  • Evidence-based, i.e. scientifically assessed or estimated
  • Publicly available via websites and other documentation
  • Independent and impartial
  • Reputable, i.e. academic research institutions and government instrumentalities whose task it is to ensure registration of products, setting safety standards and protecting public and environmental standards.

Sources

Date is obtained from a wide variety of publicly accessible sources, including (but not limited to):

Assigning Scores

Our assessment of products uses a “point score” system to assess the risks of both overall product features and of ingredients. Higher risk levels yield higher numerical point scores. A final assessment converts these scores into a range of stars starting at one star for the highest numerical score, increasing to six stars for products with the lowest risk scores (see below).

Overall product features

These are assessed from the answers to the questions in table 1.

Table 1

Questions about Product Features Interpretation
What is the Uniform Scheduling of Medicines and Poisons (SUSMP) rating? i.e. Schedule 5, 6 or 7* Higher Schedule ratings indicate more toxic chemicals
Is the product made from non-synthesised materials? Products that contain natural ingredients are given lower risk scores than those that are produced by chemical synthesis, often from fossil fuels.
Is the product pre-mixed and ready to apply? Pre-mixed products minimize the risk of inadvertent spills i.e. less chance of exposure to high concentrations of ingredients and encourage the storage and use of more manageable quantities of chemicals
Is the product an aerosol formulation ? Delivery as an aerosol increases the risk of exposure to toxic material
Is the product a dust formulation? Delivery as a powder increases the risk of exposure to toxic material
Is packaging well designed and robust in relation to its Schedule Heading? An indicator of the capacity of the packaging to prevent inadvertent exposure
Is the product a repellent or deterrent in its action? These have lower risk due to lower toxicity of such chemicals
Is the product a biological control? These are living organisms and do not involve manufacture requiring use of energy possibly of fossil fuels.
  • Poisons with a rating of S7 cannot be sold for domestic use.

Ingredients

The scoring system for ingredients is based on the assessment used in the Pesticide Properties DataBase (PPDB) created by the University of Hertfordshire, Hertfordshire, UK. Each ingredient is assessed as either no or low risk, medium risk or high risk as shown in Table 2 and points are allocated to these risks.

Table 2

Question None or Low Moderate High
What is the level of risk associated with this ingredient? No symbol Open Symbol Solid Symbol

Note: for soil mobility, persistence and if an ingredient has been reported as a human carcinogen, endocrine disruptor or genotoxic compound, it is shown without a quantitative rating, i.e. with a closed symbol.

Risk is assessed for each item shown in table 3 below:

Table 3.   Risks and their Symbols

Risk to Species or Property High Risk Moderate Risk
Humans H h
Other mammals (e.g. pets) A a
Bees & other beneficial insects B b
Worms C c
Birds D d
Fish E e
Frogs F f
Other aquatic species (Invertebrates, Crustaceans, Plants) G g
Other Characteristics
Mobile in soil M
Persistent in soil P
Carcinogenic, an endocrine disruptor, or genotoxic S
Poison S7 Z
Biological Control W
No ingredients were listed for the product  O
No risk information available for ingredients from currently available data sources

The product is discontinued !
Other Choices: A Wise Gardening option Y
The ingredients are still under investigation  ?

If a product contains multiple ingredients that have different levels of risk for any of its properties the score for the ingredient with the highest risk is assigned.  For example, a product with 3 ingredients, one with High impact, one with Low impact and one with no impact, is considered to have High impact. In order to avoid inaccurately assigning a “No risk” score to a product when information about ingredients is not available, both High and Moderate impacts increase the product “score” while Low or No impact do not affect the product score.

Some products with similar ingredient compositions may achieve different ratings because the chemical forms of ingredients may differ and have different associated risks.

Once an overall score is assigned to a product, the score is converted to a simple-to-visualize Star rating where products with a low numerical scores receive a greater number of stars. One star is assigned to products with the highest scores and 6 stars to products with the lowest scores.

Where the product is an S7 poison, 0 (zero) stars are assigned to indicate the product is outside our normal rating system.

If no ingredients are listed for a product (symbol “O”) or no risk information for ingredients is available (symbol “-“), a valid star rating cannot be assigned because of lack of information upon which a rating can be based.  For these products, a star rating is replaced by the symbol for a question mark “?“.  We are working on obtaining this information from manufacturers and chemical databases.

Where a product is discontinued, if we have existing ingredient information from before the product was discontinued, we provide a risk score.

The assessment system, at this stage, does not include Life Cycle Analysis (e.g. detail of how much energy was used in making the product) including product packaging and whether the product is natural or synthesized from chemical ingredients.

Note about the concentration of ingredients

The manufacturer considers the concentrations of ingredients in their assessment of the product, for example in determining the SUSMP (Poison) rating, however in our assessment we do not consider the concentrations because no assumptions can be made about how much of the product is used, how carefully it is used or whether it has become degraded or has been concentrated by evaporation during storage. WiseGardening considers the risk of the pure ingredients and is thus a conservative assessment.

Disputed ingredient risks

The risks associated with some ingredients are disputed by different studies around the world.  Glyphosate is an example of particular interest – see our article on this subject.  In such cases SGA has used the current scientifically accepted data, but is recognizes that as further investigations of these ingredients are done, our ratings may change as we regularly update WiseGardening.

Inclusion of non-chemical approaches

SGA has included a range of non-chemical approaches to address problems with garden pests, disease or weeds – these are included as “products”.  All information on these approaches has been obtained from publicly available sources. We identify these as “Better WiseGardening Choices” for particular product types.

Updating

All products are periodically re-assessed to ensure that any changes to formulations, packaging or active ingredients have been accounted for.  Information about ingredients is updated quarterly through the PPDB database and by literature searches for missing ingredient information as required.

Please remember: the risks documented here and used for rating are important if products are used unwisely.  Always use products strictly according to manufacturers’ instructions on labels and associated documentation. If you have further questions about a specific product you should contact the manufacturer and/or retailer.

SGA does not endorse the use of any particular chemical garden products, whether or not they are included in WiseGardening. This information is provided to you so you can make your decisions wisely.

Go to WiseGardening ratings

WiseGardening

WiseGardening rates garden chemical products for risks to human health, bees, birds, frogs, pets, earthworms, fish, other aquatic species, soil mobility and persistence. Where information is available, final Star Ratings go from 0 to 6.

Data on products and ingredients used to create WiseGardening are the scientifically estimated and publicly reported risks to the health of humans and a range of other living organisms.  Also shown are other important chemical properties.  For details of how ratings are derived see Our Assessment and Rating Process

Remember: these risks are very important if products are used unwisely.  Always use products strictly according to manufacturers’ instructions on labels and associated documentation.

Notes on Using WiseGardening

WiseGardening is sortable using the Search and Filter boxes.  The Search function can show information not visible on this page e.g. particular susceptible pests.  For some searches a full word such as “fungus” may not find many choices, but the beginning “fung” will show more because many entries might be for “fungicide”. Therefore, for some searches fewer letters may be more effective.

Note that the ingredient risks are based on pure ingredients so the risks are independent of the amount of ingredient in the product.

Some products with high star ratings still show some ingredient risks or other undesirable product characteristics. These products have received a high star rating because aspects of product packaging or being pre-mixed (i.e. not requiring dilution before use, or having robust packaging) reduce the likelihood of spills which could be harmful.

There are a few products which have ingredient risks about which there is conflicting international opinion.  Examples are those containing glyphosate, chlorpyrifos or dicamba.  Because we have only used data which is scientifically widely agreed on, these products may have achieved a higher star rating than some people might expect, especially if their containers and mode of delivery render the likelihood of inadvertent exposure unlikely.

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WiseGardening Overview

WiseGardening shows risks of garden chemicals to humans, birds, bees, frogs and other species when you use them to control pests, diseases and weeds and helps you choose wisely.

As estimates of the number of synthetic chemicals in the world continues to grow by 2000 each year from around 144,000,  it is worth knowing more about garden chemical products.  Many may cause harm to:

  • Users – if they spill or ingest them or breathe in the aerosols
  • Species that visit or live in our gardens – birds, bees, fish, worms, frogs and a range of mammals such as pets especially if the chemicals persist in the soil
  • Aquatic species – if the chemicals can be washed through soil and windup in streams and other waterways they may harm not only fish, but also other aquatic organisms.

In this Australia-first initiative, WiseGardening assesses and rates commercially available garden chemical products (currently over 850 which together contain 413 ingredients) and alternative non-chemical options to help you make informed choices about dealing with garden problems.

If you would like to see what choices there are, WiseGardening is for you!

Go to WiseGardening ratings

Better WiseGardening Choices

When trying to address problems with garden pests, weeds and diseases in the garden there are other better WiseGardening choices which don’t require the use of chemical products.  We have assembled a range of them below.

 

Pests – Insects, Snails and Slugs

Diseases

Weeds

Pests – Insects, Snails and Slugs

There are many options available to reduce pest numbers apart from using manufactured chemicals that have various risks associated with them. Here are a number of better choices.

Traps

Sticky Insect Traps

Commercial ones are available, but you can make your own following instruction/s on many websites.  Hang in locations with problem pests and monitor or replace when necessary.  However, some of these may trap beneficial insects.

Snail/Slug (Gastropod) Traps

For snails/slugs, place cardboard/wooden/plastic board or flowerpot on ground in damp spot in garden. After 1 or 2 days lift and remove snails/slugs congregated underneath.

For slaters and earwigs as well as snails ad slugs make a container with holes near the top. Place it so that the bottom of holes is level with  the ground – cover to keep rain out. Add beer or sweet liquid and vegetable oil to drown pests. Clear out trap regularly.

Bug Zappers

Plug in to 240v power point to attract and then electrocute insects. Locate these away from food preparation/cooking areas.  Please note that the environmental impacts of these are not clear.  Although they do not involve spraying chemicals, they may kill beneficial insects and they may use carbon-emitting electricity.

Provide Habitat for Predators

Increase Plant Diversity

Grow a large variety of plant species, herbs and ornamentals, especially those with brightly coloured flowers and those that are umbrella-shaped.  This will create an ecosystem of interdependent species which keep each other in balance.

Insect Hotels

These can be home-made and are also available commercially.

Nest Boxes

These can be for birds or bats which use insects as food.

Frog Ponds

If you build a frog pond, the frogs will come and they are voracious insect eaters.

Lizard Sun-bathing Rocks

Smooth rocks in the sun attract lizards which eat insects.

Barriers

Wood Ash

Mounded around the plants you want to protect, wood ash can be an effective barrier. Create a thick layer around plant for protection. Replace when damp or depleted.  But make sure that the ash was a result of an essential wood burning activity, otherwise it could be the result of an unnecessary carbon-polluting activity.

Netting

Use 5mm x 5mm (or smaller) netting pulled taut over a frame/structure around the plant.

Corrugated Cardboard

Wrap a corrugated cardboard collar around base/trunk of tree/plant and secure with tape or string. Replace periodically over pest breeding season.

Fruit Bags

Bag fruit individually or in clusters on trees to exclude pests.

Wobbly Fences

Put wobbly wire around plants you wish to protect from possums.

Corrugated Iron on Paths

This deters deer which don’t like walking on  surfaces that are unstable and make noise when trodden on.  Try to use old recycled iron.

Repellents and Attractants

Companion Planting

This approach aims to use nature to attract, repel, enhance plant health and flavour. For example, planting Winter Cress Barbarea verna effectively attracts beneficial insects and entices the cabbage white butterfly to lay its eggs on the leaves.  But the plant kills emerging caterpillars as they try eating it. Marigolds deter the cabbage white butterfly from laying eggs on brassicas as well as repelling root nematodes.

Decoys

Decoy plants may be planted earlier than the main crop to entice insects.  They can then be removed and the main crop planted. They can also be planted around the outside of a crop as insects usually start from the outside.

Artificial cabbage white butterflies can deter live ones for some time.  They should be moved regularly.

Visual Bird Deterrents

Try hanging moving or reflective materials in trees such as lights, mirrors, reflectors, reflective tape, flags, rags, streamers, lasers, dog/human/scarecrow/large hawk models. These will need to be replaced or alternated since birds quickly become used to them and will resume normal activities such as eating fruit.

Manual

Removal by Hand

Look for pests and use your fingers to squash or remove them.

For snails and slugs pick them up and put in a bucket of water containing soap or detergent.  This kills any eggs inside the snails and they can later be composted.

Water Jet or Hose

Hose pests off affected plants – e.g. Aphids can be easily removed and will not return.

Fly Swat

Use swat to squash insect against a hard surface.

Pruning

If it is possible, remove the heavily infested section of the plant.

Beneficial Agents

Domesticated Birds

Allowing ducks, chicken or geese to browse in areas of the garden infested with pests can help control their numbers. Such birds are effective predators of snails, slugs, insects and spiders.

Introduce Predatory Insects or Parasites

It is possible to purchase insects and other organisms which will attack pest insects in your garden from a number of suppliers.

Diseases

There are many options available to reduce plant diseases in your garden apart from using manufactured chemicals that have various risks associated with them. Here are a number of better choices.

Bacteria

Avoid Using Seed Which might be Diseased

Use either certified disease-free seed or, if saving seed from your garden, make sure that the plant you are taking it from is healthy.

Crop Rotation

Don’t grow plants of the same family in the same bed for at least 3 seasons to avoid a build up of pathogens in the soil.

Hygiene

Bacteria survive in infected plant debris/litter, seeds and in soils. They are spread by contact, rain splash, vectors and infected seeds.  Before and after harvest, dispose of infected plants/plant parts in sealed plastic bags in bins  – do not compost them.

Disinfect gardening equipment (bleach/methylated spirits).

Fungus

Avoid Moisture on Leaves, Especially at Night

Moisture persisting on leaves allows fungal spores to germinate.  Use drip irrigation rather than sprayers or employ overhead watering early in the morning so that moisture will evaporate.

Exclusion

Prevent pathogens from entering the landscape by only purchasing healthy, vigorous, undiseased plant material. Refuse to purchase any plants showing any sign of disease or poor health.

Hygiene

Completely remove any plants that are either heavily infested with untreatable diseases (remove as much of the plant & root system as possible as well as much infested soil as possible).

Solarisation

Fungus and other pathogens in the top layers of soil can be destroyed by covering the soil with thin, clear or black plastic film and leaving in place for a number of weeks in the summer/hottest months before planting crops. Try to use recycled plastic to avoid the extra pollution of plastic production.

Virus

Plants cannot be cured of viral infections, so prevention is required.

Hygiene

Cleaning of tools (especially cutting tools) with bleach or alcohol between uses and between plants will help prevent transmission of virus.

Some pest insects e.g. aphids can transmit viruses , so control of these pests can reduce the chance of viral infection of plants.

Removal and Destruction of Infected Plants

Place infected plants in plastic bags, seal firmly and dispose of in rubbish bins or burn them.

Crop Rotation

Since viruses can only grow in living organisms for which they are specific, transmission to subsequent plantings can be minimised by practising crop rotation.

Use Virus-Resistant Varieties

Weeds

There are many options available to reduce weed infestations in your garden apart from using manufactured chemicals that have various risks associated with them. Here are a number of better choices.

Heat

Solarisation

Cover soil/garden bed with black or clear plastic film. Leave plastic in place for several weeks during the hottest time of the year. This effectively ‘cooks’ the plants and seeds in the soil underneath. This can also reduce soil-borne pathogens.  Try to use recycled plastic to avoid the extra pollution of plastic production.

Steam

Apply water heated to close to boiling point or beyond boiling in some commercially available saturated steam weeding devices to create steam. When applied to a plant it causes the plant cells to rupture then wilt and die.  This treatment needs to be repeated on weed infestations in order to be effective.  Note that heating water to produce steam also requires use of carbon-polluting electricity unless derived from renewable sources.

Hot Water

Apply boiling/close to boiling point water to a plant. This method causes plant cell rupture, followed by plant death. This treatment needs to be repeated on weed infestations in order to be effective. Note that boiling water requires use of carbon-polluting electricity unless derived from renewable sources.

Direct Flame

Apply a direct flame using a fuel powered flame burner to a plant. The flame passes over the plant, increasing the temperature of the moisture in the plant causing cell rupture, followed by plant death.  This treatment needs to be repeated on weed infestations in order to be effective.  Note that this uses carbon-polluting fuel.

Heavy Mulching

Cover with overlapping layers of thick cardboard, ensuring no light can penetrate to the soil.  Then covered with a thick layer of organic mulch e.g. wood chips or bark.

Prevention

Know Your Weeds

Identify the problem plant in order to ensure the treatment is targeted and effective.

Limit Soil Cultivation

Use no-dig gardening methods.

Competition

Reduce the chance of weeds succeeding by using vigorously growing plants and plant close together to restrict light to soil and, therefore,  chances of germination. These plants can out-compete the weeds.

Mulch

Suppresses weeds by preventing light from reaching seeds. This prevents germination of seeds or causes the seed to use up reserves trying to reach surface. Organic and granular mulch has additional benefits of reducing evaporation from soil and capture of rainfall.

Hygiene

Control existing weeds around the garden regularly to reduce weed seed build up. Prevent weeds from being imported to your site/garden by choosing weed free plants from the nursery. Remove any weed seeds that might germinate in the top layer of the planting media. Keep tools and equipment clean.

Care with Fertilisation

Extra fertiliser can give weeds an advantage as many can grow quickly when there is ample nutrition available. Limit fertiliser use to only when necessary.  Use soil testing if possible to determine nutrient needs.

Manual

Removal by Hand

Remove individual weeds by hand pulling or using hand tools is a useful technique in small gardens or for low numbers of weeds. It is highly selective and is most effective on annual weeds and weeds which do not regrow from underground parts – care must be taken to ensure the entire plant is removed. This method is cheap, free and has little to no impact on surrounding plants and animals.

Girdling or Ringbarking

For large or woody weeds too large for hand removal, girdling (ringbarking) is a suitable option. Cut several centimetres of bark from the circumference of the entire plant. This will cause the plant to die.

Mechanical Cultivation (tillage)

Using powered devices e.g. rotary hoe or tractor.  This approach can have the disadvantage of requiring use of carbon-polluting fossil fuel unless the device is driven by human strength.

Go to WiseGardening ratings

Gardening to Nurture the Planet - Videos


A series of short gardening videos for the low-down on everything from worm farming and composting to saving water, reducing your food miles and growing incredible edibles.  Whether you’re a first time gardener or a seasoned green thumb, these bite-sized, fast-paced, funny little flicks will get you growing in no time.  You’ll find it all in these compact episodes of gardening wisdom. Gardening videos like you've never seen before.

Episode 1 - Lord of the Bins (Part 1)
Lord of the Bins is a hard-hitting, 2 part expose of the relationships in your compost bin. In part one Helen reveals the uncensored story of decomposition that's smouldering in the backyard compost bin. Capture carbon, improve your soil, feed a worm, reduce household waste and discover why a hot and healthy relationship with your compost is an essential part of being a planet conscious gardener.


Episode 2 - Lord of the Bins (Part 2)

Things really start to warm up in part two as we delve deeper into the compost heap. Helen shares her own special family recipe for sweet smelling compost, no science degree required. Find out what makes your compost sing and what should go in the rubbish bin, it’s all about the balance in this relationship. Who would have thought that reducing your carbon footprint could be so steamy!


Episode 3 - Mulch Ado about Nothing

Wrap your soil up in a blanket of mulch to conserve water use, add nutrients, suppress weeds and enhance habitat. But what to use where? Meander through a multitude of mulches with Helen as she show us what to goes where, what’s sustainable, what’s not and how to avoid common problems when mulching. From straw, to stone, to living mulches, this flick makes mulch ado about mulching and will have your garden beds snug and warm in no time.


Episode 4 - Renter's Guide To Sustainable Gardening

If you only ever venture into your garden for a quick hack before property inspection, then this film's for you. Find out how to grow plants in a pot, up a wall, in a shoe and on a budget... without jeopardizing your bond. Create a moveable vegie patch and cultivate much more than couch potatoes. Tips and tricks for low cost, temporary and mobile gardening that all gardeners can use. There's even something for the indoor gardener in this priceless pic.


Episode 5 - We Love Tools

The behind-the-scenes tour of where it all happens – the toolshed. Get to know the colourful characters who make your garden dream a reality.


Episode 6 - Grow Your Own Incredible Edibles

Turn your food miles into metres with a backyard full of brag-worthy produce all home grown by you. Produce in pots or bountiful plots, Helen makes it easy to grow fruit, herbs and vegies no matter where you live. Prepare and mulch your soil, planting from seed and seedling, companion planting, organic pest controls and more. Everything you need to know to get growing your own.


Episode 7 - Trees, not just for hugging

Think like a Koala and take a look at trees from a whole new perspective. The home of our famous Aussie icon can also add significant value to our homes, reducing energy use, improving air flow, building soil health, and more. Our friendly neighbourhood koala (who resembles a certain horticulturalist we know), gets enthusiastic about the many sustainable benefits of trees at home and how to maximize their value in the backyard. And if you have never seen a koala ride a bike, watch on...


Episode 8 - Weeds, not in my backyard

Prevent a triffid-style invasion of the worst kinds of weeds. Not just in your backyard but into the bush and beyond. Be alert and be very alarmed!


Episode 9 - Return of the weeds

So they’ve made it past your defences and past your bio-controls. They are running rampant threatening to take over. Fear not, help is at hand with these tried and tested and very sustainable garden weed remedies.


Episode 10 - Wheeley good green waste solutions

Ever felt like the third wheel? Now you know how the green bin feels. It’s here for good and not for evil, so treat it right and feed it nice. One of our most misunderstood and intriguing bins.


Episode 11 - Tank Girl

You are about to embark on a relationship that will be long and lasting. And as there is no ‘d-i-v-o-r-c-e’ in tank world, let us help you get it right the first time. Relationship training for you and your tank that will bring everlasting bliss and satisfaction.


Episode 12 - OMG I’m going grey!

Just be thankful you’ve got any water at all, even if it has been around the block once or twice before. But treat it with caution and ensure that you follow the ‘Do’s and Don’ts’ of greywater use to ensure happy soil, plants and neighbours!


Episode 13 - DIY water tank

So you want to store water but you don’t have the big bucks for a glamorous tank? Fear not, you can still have water. Learn how to turn and old wheelie bin into a portable water carrier. So ingenious!


Episode 14 - Don’t be a drip!

Take the irritation out of irrigation and go sub-surface. It’s fast, efficient and it makes the most of every precious drop. Go on your garden will love you for it!


Episode 15 - Wicking beds

Loved by many, enjoyed by few. The ultimate 'How-to' guide for creating and enjoying your very own garden wicking bed. And once the plants have been tucked in for the season, blissful self-watering takes over.


Episode 16 - How to be a good parent to your worms

Parenting worms demands a certain amount of attention to their voracious vegan appetites. However they are rarely seen and constantly produce wondrous liquid fertilisers and worm castings. Really, like any family member, they're more than worth their weight in gold.


Weeds

Nothing gets on a gardener’s goat more than a vista marred by weeds! Weed control is often simple, involving not much more than hard work, mulch, patience and time, but, if your patch of paradise has turned into a prickly, icky problem, you may need to call in the big guns!  But, before you declare weed war at your place, make sure you correctly identify the weed in question, and find out exactly how to treat it (your local Garden Centre or images on the internet should be able to help). If you choose to use a chemical, select one of the 6 Star-rated solutions from WiseGardening – Choices to Protect You and the Planet.

If you do use any chemical product, please read the label VERY carefully.  And to understand what the chemical terms on labels, it’s worth looking here.

More information about weeds and weed control is found on links below:

Weed Control

Several different approaches are needed for weed control since eradication is difficult and can be expensive. Preventing weeds from establishing and…

Read More

Low Impact Pest Management 101 Video

Sustainable Gardening 101 Video Series PART 3: Low Impact Pest Management Gardens are the natural habitat for all types of insects – the good, the…

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All About Weeds

Let’s find out more about why we call some plants weeds and why they are not all really bad.  So that we can think usefully about removing unwanted…

Read More

Carbon Emissions from Gardening

In a previous article we explored ways that gardeners can lock up carbon in the soil.  Although increasing soil carbon is important, it doesn’t…

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Wheeley Good Green Waste Solutions – Video

    Ever felt like the third wheel? Now you know how the green bin feels. It’s here for good and not for evil, so treat it right and feed…

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Return of the Weeds – Video

  So they’ve made it past your defences and past your bio-controls. They are running rampant threatening to take over. Fear not, help is at…

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Are glyphosate products safe to use?

Unless you follow the news in detail you might not know about current debates regarding the weed killer, glyphosate, widely used in garden products…

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Reducing Weed Spread

"Garden plants are the biggest source of weeds in this country totalling 70% of Australia’s combined agricultural, noxious and natural ecosystem…

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Pesticides in Fruit and Vegetables

We are all aware that fruit and veggies produced commercially, unless they are certified organic, have been exposed to pesticides at some stage in…

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Weeds: Not in my backyard – Video

Prevent a triffid-style invasion of the worst kinds of weeds. Plants taking over your garden and worse, escaping into our natural areas to create…

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Weed Control

Several different approaches are needed for weed control since eradication is difficult and can be expensive. Preventing weeds from establishing and early intervention is much easier and much cheaper. Let’s look at approaches to weed management which begins with prevention.

It is best to identify the target weeds. By doing this the method for control can be more specific and potentially much more effective.  Know whether the weeds are annual or perennial and how they spread, such as by seed or by underground plant parts.

While there are plants that are formally classified as weeds, there are others that are common garden plants that we may regard as weeds because of their invasive nature e.g. violets and the Australian native plant Dichondra.  In some circumstances they are lovely, but not so in others.

Prevention

  • Check through the plants you already have in your garden and make sure they are not weedy
  • Remove any weedy plants from your garden
  • Be careful about disposal of plant material/green waste - if removing weedy material it can be left in a plastic bag in the sun  - effectively cooking (solarising) them before disposal.
  • Minimise disturbance of soil to decrease the opportunities for weed seed to reach the surface and germinate (e.g. No Dig gardening)
  • Choose plants that are not likely to become weedy in your area
  • Always work from areas of low infestation of weeds to more infested areas because:
    • It is quicker and easier to start with and should be able to achieve canopy cover more quickly to reduce further weed growth.
    • this minimises disturbance in the least disturbed areas and avoids taking more weeds/seed from the worse areas into areas with lesser weed growth.
  • Avoid unnecessary fertilising which can favour weeds. Often weed species grow quickly utilising available resources better than chosen landscape species so they can out-compete them in some circumstances
  • Prevent weeds from being imported to your site/garden by choosing weed-free plants from the nursery. Remove any weeds that might germinate in the top layer of the planting medium.
  • Seeds can persist in soil for a very long time. Minimise disturbance of soil to decrease the opportunities for weed seed to reach the surface and germinate (eg. No-dig gardening)

Suppression

  • Competition - Select vigorous plant species to cover open ground.  This shades/prevents light from reaching soil and allowing germination of weed seed.
  • Mulch - Suppress weeds by preventing light from reaching seeds. This prevents germination or causes the seed to use up reserves trying to reach surface. Mulch has additional benefits of reducing evaporation from soil and captures rainfall,  as well as its potential aesthetic value.
    • Sheet mulches: They must be kept in good condition. However, this can reduce the ability for water and oxygen to reach the soil dependent on mulch used.
    • Granular mulches: Should be 75-100mm deep and coarse in texture. Thicker than 100mm reduces the ability of oxygen and water to get into the soil. Mulch can potentially increase frost damage to plants by preventing soil from warming. Carbon-rich mulches can cause a temporary reduction in soil nitrogen as soil microbes use it to break down the mulch.
Organic Inorganic
Sheet Mulch Paper, cardboard, jute Old carpet, plastic film, weed mat, woven plastic
Granular Mulch Bark, wood chips, straw, recycled Timber, hay, leaves, grass clippings, compost pebbles, rocks, crushed bricks,

Eradication/removal

Control existing weeds around the garden regularly to reduce weed seed build up i.e. cut down or pull weeds before they flower and can produce seed.

Manual

This involves removal by hand or hand-held tools such as a hoe, fork or spade.

It is a highly selective method and very useful on small scale or in very high value landscapes. It is most effective on annual weeds but not as effective on perennial weeds that regrow from fragments left behind. It is a labour-intensive strategy.

  • Weed Pulling Technique - This method is partly dependent on root systems of weeds. Initial pulling of the weed must be gentle and tentative to establish how firmly the plant is rooted, being careful not to break the roots.
  • Use a gentle steady movement and pull in the direction of the root growth (which is the line of least resistance).
  • Wedge a weed knife or trowel into the soil under a weed at an angle of approximately 45deg. Hold the top section of the weed taut and then use the tool to lever the weed out.

Tools for Hand Weeding

  • Short handled such as trowel, hand fork, hand hoes, hori-hori Japanese garden knife or hand weeder tools which come in a variety of shapes, sizes and weights for either cutting or levering out weeds.
  • Long handled such as a Dutch hoe and a range of push-pull hoes for slicing weeds off just under the surface of the soil. This works best for annual weeds or weeds that do not regrow from underground parts.
  • Tree Poppers - for removal of woody weeds with stem diameters of up to 60mm.

Girdling or Ringbarking

This is suitable for large woody weeds or weedy trees and involves cutting several centimetres of bark from the entire circumference of the weed or tree. This prevents the upwards flow of water and nutrients from the roots of a plant to the canopy. It also stops the flow of sugars, the products of photosynthesis, from reaching the roots effectively starving the weed and causing it to die.

Mechanical Cultivation (tillage)

This method uses powered devices (eg. rotary hoe or tractor) and can chop up and bury weeds. It is of most use for site preparation and pre-planting. Can cause structural damage to the soil and may damage roots of non-target plants.

Thermal Treatment

All such approaches require repeated treatments at varying intervals in order to keep weed density at an acceptable level. The frequency of treatment depends on weed species, initial weed cover/density, climate, type of soil surface.   It may involve up to 11-12 treatments per year to control weeds to an acceptable level.

Solarisation

This uses a plastic film to cover soil and trap enough heat to kill weeds, weed seeds and other soil-borne pests or pathogens. It relies on high levels of heat and solar radiation to be successful.

Plastic film must be thin and can be either clear film or black.  It must be left in place for a number of weeks in the summer/hottest months. This technique has been shown to kill weeds, reduce soil-borne pathogens, seed germination and increase yields of productive crops (where used in productive horticultural or agricultural settings).

It is particularly useful in reducing annual weeds. A number of the studies found that approximately 30 days was very effective for the soil/weeds to be solarised¹.

Steam

This is generated from water heated to close to or beyond boiling point in some commercially -available saturated steam weeding devices. When applied to a plant/weed via a nozzle/head it causes the plant cells to rupture then wilt and die. It is more effective on very young or just emerging seedlings. As the plants get older and plant tissues thicken, its effectiveness is lowered. Germination of seeds may be stimulated in some species if they require higher temperatures. Unfortunately, this method requires a high energy input.

Hot Water

Application of hot water has effectiveness similar to glyphosate for annual weeds and young perennial weeds. But like steam it requires a high energy input (during manufacture) and repeated applications.

Direct Flame

A hand-held fossil fuel-powered burner (usually fuelled by propane, butane or LPG) can be used to control woody weeds in sensitive or riparian areas. Flaming is a technique where a hot flame is passed over the vegetation in order to increase the temperature of the moisture in the plant cells causing the liquid to rapidly expand and rupture the cells causing death. This can be used effectively on hard surfaces (paths, gravel, concrete etc.) but poses a fire risk if used in areas where combustible material such as mulch or dry vegetation is present.

Some research suggests that flamers should have a shield which keeps the combustible gases close to the ground for a more effective treatment. Many plants require frequent/repeated treatment to keep weeds at acceptable levels.

Biological Control

There are various biological controls for weedy plants. Introduction of specific pathogenic organisms or species is more the domain of government rather than home and community gardeners. A well-known example is the introduction of the Cactoblastus moth introduced to control prickly pear.

Goats

Control of weeds by goats is an approach that gardeners can use, but really only where the weed is more attractive to goats than other surrounding vegetation. It can help stop the weed from flowering, therefore reducing seed dispersal. It can also achieve ringbarking of woody species which will structurally weaken or kill the weed.

Some weeds are highly palatable to goats including scotch broom Cytisus scoparius, sweet briar Rosa rubiginosa, blackberry (Rubus fruticosus agg.) and wild turnip Brassica tournefortii. These species can be grazed all year round. There are many other species of weed that goats find palatable many of them weeds².

Integrated control of heavy infestations of blackberry, sweet briar and scotch broom can take several years and is best done using approximately 30 goats per hectare of fenced-in weed infestation. Goats should be stocked from early spring to allow them to defoliate, browse and ringbark the weeds and should be de-stocked over winter. This cycle should continue over two successive years. However, for this to be fully successful, spraying with strong weed killer in February is recommended followed by burning in April.

Chemical Control

Chemical control is the last resort in weed management.  Herbicides work in different ways:

  • Some herbicides kill plants by blocking enzyme activity that is required for plant cell activity.
  • Non-selective herbicides kill /damage almost all plants
  • Selective herbicides kill/damage some plants but not others - much of the time selectivity is achieved by applying the herbicide to specific plants.

Herbicides may be classed as:

  • Contact - affects parts of plant directly contacted by the herbicide
  • Translocated - applied to plant surfaces and then moved around the plants vascular system to damage the entire plant.
  • Residual - the herbicide is applied to the soil and is absorbed by germinating seeds or plant roots. Such herbicides can remain in the soil for long periods of time.

All herbicides must be registered in Australia by the APVMA and are registered (permitted) for use on particular plants in particular situations. Directions for use are detailed on the instruction sheet and product packaging. It is essential that the instructions on any label are followed exactly. Even then, they pose risks to human health and that of other species - SGA’s WiseGardening app provides comprehensive information on potential side effects of herbicides available to the home or community gardener.

Any use of a herbicide which does not comply with directions is considered ‘Off-Label’ use and is then not covered by any warranty, so that the user becomes responsible for all environmental safeguards, occupational health and safety, animal welfare and any potential herbicide/chemical residues.

Bioherbicides

There is ongoing research on development of herbicides whose active ingredient is a living organism³.

There is, however, another type of product also termed "bioherbicide" which is very different.  An example is Beloukha Garden Herbicide made from sunflowers to yield nonanoic acid where the active ingredient is a product derived from a living organism. However, the chemical nonanoic acid is used in some other herbicide products which are NOT bioherbicides, to increase effectiveness of low concentrations of glyphosate.

We are very grateful to Bridey Oliver for the research and first draft of this article and to financial support from the Lord Mayor's Charitable Foundation.

References

  1.  Paiman,  Yudono P, Sunarminto, BS, Indradewa D.  2020. Soil Solarisation for Control of Weed Propagules. Journal of Engineering Science and Technology Vol. 15 (1) 139 - 151.
  2. NSW Department of Primary Industries. Meat and Livestock Australia. 2007.  Weed Control using Goats: A guide to using goats for weed control in pasture.  Appendix.
  3. Kremer RJ.  2019. In Nano-Biopesticides Today and Future Perspectives,

January In Your Patch

Wondering what to do in January in your patch? What vegetables and herbs should you plant? It's the start of the New Year and whether it's time for a little rest and relaxation after a manic December, or you have a New Year's resolution to spend some quality time with your garden; it's  time to get out in your patch!  While we have been distracted with festive things, our patches have probably suffered a little and are in need of some serious loving right now. We have loads of  tips that will encourage your garden to flourish in the sunshine of Summer.

Warm Areas

Frost free or occasional light frosts (North from about Coffs Harbour and all the way across to the west to Geraldton)

It’s pretty hot out there at the moment, and it definitely isn’t the ideal time to be planting much. That said, you can try eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, capsicum, chillies and tomatoes; towards the end of the month.

  • Lettuce can be grown at the tail end of January, but consider popping them under a shade cloth tent.
  • Try Lemongrass if you haven’t already. Its woody nature helps prevent too much damage from the heat. Though wait until things cool down for any other herbs.
  • Still time to pop in some asparagus, just find a cooler spot in the patch.
  • It’s not too late for watermelon, rockmelon and pineapple. Mangos can go in this time of year also.
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect. Throughout the growing period diluted worm teas can be added to your garden every couple of weeks. This will help keep up the growth and fruiting capabilities of your plants. Apply to the soil early in the morning, in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • Pretty up the patch with these flowering fancies: marigolds and sunflowers. Popping these in around your veggies will give some colour and interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
  • Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year, try millet, lablab, or cow pea. This will improve your soil incredibly. For a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Our fact sheet Irrigation In An Arid Nation has loads more info on smart water habits.
  • If you haven’t done already, look into drip irrigation. This will put the water where it is needed as well as reducing the risk of powdery mildew when the leaves get wet.
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important if you are heading off this holidays. A hot summer tip is to mulch after watering the patch to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • On non-gardening days, why not head out to the shed, and construct a couple of shade cloth tents. They don’t have to elaborate, just a simple, moveable structure that you can pop over the top of some of the sun sensitive veggies (like eggplant, capsicum and others) as the heat becomes more intense. Think of it as slip, slop, slap for plants! Pop these around where required, especially on high UV days, windy days, and during your holidays.
  • Protect your pot plants while you are away this summer. Mulch the top of the pots, sit them in a saucer of water (or the bathtub if it gets enough light) and you’ll be set!  Or even run dripper lines to them from your main irrigation pipes.

Cool to Cold Areas

Low temperatures for extended periods of time (all of Tasmania, most of Victoria, the southern highlands of NSW, the ACT and a tiny southern bit of SA)

  • It’s cool inside (hopefully) and pretty warm outside, but there is still a lot of things you can pop in the patch at this time of year. Tasty herbs that are ready to roll include basil, parsley, watercress, sage and dill. You could give mint a go as well, but be careful to contain it in a pot, otherwise it can take over! As tempting as it is to plant coriander, that screams summer. It will not do well this time of year and will head straight to seed.
  • Tasty vegetables to plant this month: spring onions, leeks, lettuces and zucchini!
  • Add some colour and movement to the patch, and pop in some of these little pretties: stock, verbena and ageratum.
  • Time to pop in some sunflower seeds. Find a sunny spot where you would like to see some happy sunflowers later in the year and plant the seeds to double the depth of the seed. Cover lightly with dirt and be patient, they’ll be popping their heads up in no time!
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important if you are heading off this holidays. A hot summer tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Green manure crops, including millet and mung beans are good to go now. Improve that weary veggie patch, and get ready for next seasons heavy feeding plants! Check out the Crop Rotation article on the SGA website for a bit of information why and how Green Manure crops can help
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings planted in at the tail end of last year. Throughout the growing period diluted worm teas can be added to your garden every couple of weeks. This will help keep up the growth and fruiting capabilities of your plants .Apply to the soil early in the morning, in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • On non-gardening days, why not head out to the shed, and construct a couple of shade cloth tents. They don’t have to elaborate, just a simple, moveable structure that you can pop over the top of some of the sun sensitive veggies (like eggplant, capsicum and others) as the heat becomes more intense. Think of it as slip, slop, slap for plants! Pop these around where required, especially on high UV days, windy days, and during your holidays.
  • Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Our fact sheet Irrigation In An Arid Nation has loads more info on smart water habits.

Temperate Zones

Occasional winter frosts (pretty much the rest of Australia, most of the inland, some areas of Victoria, most of SA and the southern area of WA)

  • It is pretty warm in this part of the world, but there are a couple of things you could pop in to the patch this January. Why not try leek, sweet corn, beans, cucumber, spring onions and zucchini.
  • Still too hot for most herbs, but lemongrass will take the heat if planted out now.
  • Time to pop in some sunflower seeds. Find a sunny spot where you would like to see some happy sunflowers later in the year and plant the seeds to double the depth of the seed. Cover lightly with dirt and wait. They’ll be popping their heads up in no time!
  • Why not try some lovely flowering stuff in your patch as well, like: nasturtium, verbena, petunias and marigolds. These guys are great at attracting pollinators and beneficial insects to your patch, they look attractive and fresh as well.
  • Consider a green manure crop to add some life and nutrients to an overworked patch. At this time of year try cow pea, mung bean, soy bean and millet. This will improve your soil incredibly. For a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort! Check out the Crop Rotation article on the SGA website for a bit of information why and how Green Manure crops can help
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important if you are heading off this holidays. A hot summer tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings planted at the tail end of last year. Throughout the growing period diluted worm teas can be added to your garden every couple of weeks. This will help keep up the growth and fruiting capabilities of your plants .Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the  morning, in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • On non-gardening days, why not head out to the shed, and construct a couple of shade cloth tents. They don’t have to elaborate, just a simple, moveable structure that you can pop over the top of some of the sun sensitive veggies (like eggplant, capsicum and others) as the heat becomes more intense. Think of it as slip, slop, slap for plants! Pop these around where required, especially on high UV days, windy days, and during your holidays.
  • Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Our fact sheet Irrigation In An Arid Nation has loads more info on smart water habits.

Of course, this is just a rough guide, and many of you will find your situation varies from the above listing, due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather (quite possible at this time of year) and garden type.

But the one thing that remains the same for all zones and regions is this: start out the year as you mean to go on, and give your patch some much needed love!

Have a think about what you want to get out of it. Make a list ( if you don’t already have one). Due to the heat this may be the time where you sit back and plan what you want to achieve so that when the weather does cool somewhat, you’ll be full steam ahead.

Otherwise be smart about the time you spend in the garden, avoid the heat and direct sun and remember to hydrate. Early mornings and evenings can be a blissful time to spend in your garden.

Information sources:
Bagnall, Lyn, Easy organic gardening and moon planting, published by Scribe Publications, VIC.
McFarlane, Annette, Organic Vegetable Gardening, published by ABC Books, Sydney, NSW.


February In Your Patch

Because it is warmer than summers 10 years ago, you might need to change what you normally do your garden.  Maybe in February in your patch some of  your summer crop is having a little bit of a last hoorah, you may find the tomatoes, eggplant and capsicum and still chugging along.  In any case, it’s time to start thinking about preparing your garden for autumn planting. This month's guide has loads of tips and ideas of what to do NOW that will ensure your patch is ready to go. Wait until the heat of the day is off and then spend some lovely time in the garden.

Weeding

Weeding is a great job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!

 Mulching

Top up the mulch on your vegetable patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds.  This is especially important if you are heading away or caught up in the bustle of back to school.  A hot summer tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems, especially young seedlings. Choose sustainable, low environmental impact mulch (this means different things in different areas), one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.

 Planning
Time to think about what wonders you will whack into your patch come April. Preparing beds and plots now means that when autumn planting time rolls around, your garden will be ready and waiting. Removing spent plants, clearing areas of weeds and topping up organic matter is an excellent February job. A nail rake, some good organic compost and lovely sustainable mulch is the perfect recipe for productive patches of the future.

 

 Shade for your plants
On non-gardening days, why not head out to the shed, and construct a couple of shade cloth tents. They don’t have to elaborate, just a simple, moveable structure that you can pop over the top of some of the sun sensitive veggies (like eggplant, capsicum and others) as the heat becomes more intense. Pop these around where required, especially on high UV days, windy days, and during your holidays.

Watering
Water smarter at this time of year and always first thing in the morning. A nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial than frequent, short watering.

 Green Manure
Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year try lablab, cow pea, mung bean, soy bean and millet. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, for a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!

 Warm Areas

Frost free or occasional light frosts (North from about Coffs Harbour and all the way across to the west to Geraldton)

  • Give leeks, capsicum, chillies, cabbage, silverbeet, lettuce, sweet corn, cauliflower, broccoli and tomatoes a go towards the end of the month.
  • It’s too hot for most herbs, but you could try some lemongrass. Wait until the end of the month to plant some basil varieties, including our old favourite sweet basil, and the always-stunning purple basil.
  • Want a super summer smoothie… for years to come? Then plant some banana, pineapple and mangos!
  • Pretty up the patch with some marigolds and sunflowers. Planting these around your veggies will give some colour and interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors.
  • The recent heat in the warm areas may have caused a bit of grief to many plants in the garden, with some foliage looking less than fancy. Don’t be too tempted to tidy these guys just yet – cruddy looking leaves will protect the new, young, sensitive shoots underneath from a serious case of sunburn. Wait until the evenings cool down in about a month or so to get your Edward Scissorhands to your scorched shrubs.

 Cool to Cold Areas

Low temperatures for extended periods of time (all of Tasmania, most of Victoria, the southern highlands of NSW, the ACT and a tiny southern bit of SA)

  • It is still fairly warm around these parts, but there are a number of incredible edibles ready to go in now. Try lettuce, spinach, leek, silverbeet, and some Asian greens towards the tail end of the month. Broccoli, leeks and spring onions could be worth a shot when the nights get cooler.
  • Add some colour and movement to the patch, and pop in some of these little pretties: stock, dianthus, viola, pansy, verbena and ageratum.
  • Give most herbs a miss just now, but, if you’re really keen, get rolling with parsley and watercress.
  • Garlic is good to go once the weather cools a touch.
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds. A hot summer tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems….especially young seedlings. Choose sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings shoved in at the tail end of last year. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.

 Temperate Zones

Occasional winter frosts (pretty much the rest of Australia, most of the inland, some areas of Victoria, most of SA and the southern area of WA)

  • It’s still pretty warm outside, but there are some tasty treats you can plant out this month. Try silverbeet, leeks, spring onions, Brussels sprouts, bush beans, broccoli, cauliflower and celery… but wait until the end of the month.
  • Lettuce is lovely at the end of February, but, because the days are still quite hot, consider popping the seedlings under some shade cloth, or a more established plant to protect its sensitive foliage form the sun.  Even try growing in partial shade.
  • Still too hot for most herbs but lemongrass will take the heat if planted out now. Basil is happy to go in now as well, so why not mix it up and try some purple, Thai and lemon basils, as well as our old favourite, sweet basil.
  • Why not try some lovely flowering stuff in your patch as well, like nasturtium, verbena, petunias and marigolds. These guys are great at attracting pollinators and beneficial insects to your patch, and they look great as well.
  • Want to save some money? Avocados are relatively expensive at the moment, but in a few years time that won’t worry you. Towards the tail end of February try planting an avocado.

Of course, this is just a rough guide, and many of you will find your situation varies from the above listing, due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather and garden type.

One thing that remains the same for all zones and regions is this: start out the year as you mean to go on, and give your patch some much-needed love. So, grab a cool beverage, slip, slop slap and spend some time under your favourite tree, admiring your patch!

Information sources:

Bagnall, Lyn, Easy organic gardening and moon planting, published by Scribe Publications, VIC.
McFarlane, Annette, Organic Vegetable Gardening, published by ABC Books, Sydney, NSW.

Photos:
Elaine Shallue - Basil and Zucchini


March In Your Patch

March is the month named after Mars, the Roman God of War.  So March in your patch is an excellent time to wage war on it. Be it ripping out the weeds, mulching up a storm, or popping in a plethora of plants, March is the ultimate time to launch a full scale (but well planned) attack on you patch! So, all you weekend warriors … March into action!

Warm Areas

Frost free or occasional light frosts (North from about Coffs Harbour and all the way across to the west to Geraldton)

  • Okay, it’s still pretty warm out there, but you could certainly consider popping in the following incredible edibles, especially towards the tail end of the month. Consider cabbage, Asian greens, rocket, silverbeet, cauliflower, beans, peas, spring onions, leeks, radish or cucumber.
  • Whack some lettuce in but consider popping them under a shade cloth tent if the days are still quite warm.
  • Hop into the herb patch with coriander (try a slow bolting variety if it’s still very warm), sweet basil, lemon grass and oregano.
  • Feeling fruity? Go Carmen Miranda with some strawberries, watermelon, citrus, rockmelon, pineapple and passionfruit!
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser, is perfect for giving them a kick start as they establish. Apply to the soil early in the morning and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • ‘Ave a go with an avocado!
  • Begin to prepare your potato beds now….you’ll be glad you did come April!
  • Pretty up the patch with these flowering fancies- marigolds, sunflowers and pansies, cornflowers, violas, snapdragons, stock, verbena and lavender (non-invasive varieties of course!). Popping these in around your veggies will give some colour and interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
  • Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year, try millet, oats, lupins or field peas. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, as a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial!
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems….especially young seedlings. Choose a sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Weeding is an important job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!

Cool to Cold Areas

Low temperatures for extended periods of time (all of Tasmania, most of Victoria, the southern highlands of NSW, the ACT and a tiny southern bit of SA)

  • Yup… it’s a touch warm, but there is still a whole heap of things you can pop in the patch at this time of year. Tasty herbs in the ‘burbs that are ready to roll include coriander and basil. You could give mint and lemon balm a go as well, but be careful to contain them, otherwise they can take over!
  • Whack these tasty wonders into your Yummy Yard this month: Chinese cabbage, spinach, tatsoi, rocket, silverbeet, broccoli, leeks and lettuces!
  • Add some colour and movement to the patch, and pop in some of these little pretties- dianthus, cornflower, pansy, viola, echinacea, stock, verbena and lupins. Having these around your veggies will give some interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose a low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Green manure crops, including oats, wheat, faba beans and field peas are good to go now… improve that dormant veggie patch, and get ready for next seasons heavy feeding plants!
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser, is perfect for the seedlings you’ve just popped in. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial!

Temperate Zones

Occasional winter frosts (pretty much the rest of Australia, most of the inland, some areas of Victoria, most of SA and the southern area of WA)

  • It is still a little warm in this part of the world, but there are a heap of things you could pop in to the patch this March. Why not try cabbage, Asian greens, lettuce, rocket, tatsoi, silverbeet, spring onions, spinach, carrots,
  • It’s time to get happy with herbs, so try some parsley, basil, coriander (try a slow bolting variety if it’s still pretty warm), rosemary, marjoram and thyme. You could give mint and lemon balm a go as well, but be careful to contain them as they can take over!
  • Why not try some lovely flowering stuff in your patch as well, like: cornflower, calendula, dianthus, pansies, viola, snapdragons, stock, nasturtium, verbena and marigolds. These guys are great at attracting pollinators and beneficial insects to your patch, and I reckon they look tops as well.
  • Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year try faba bean, field pea, oats and wheat. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, for a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems….especially young seedlings. Choose a low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings shoved in this month. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial!
  • Of course, this is just a rough guide, and many of you will find your situation varies from the above listing, due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather (Mother Nature does like to keep us on our toes) and garden type.

But the one thing that remains the same for all zones and regions is this: start out the year as you mean to go on, and give your patch some much needed love! So, grab a cool beverage, slip, slop slap, and spend some time under your favourite tree, admiring your patch!

 

Information sources:
Bagnall, Lyn, Easy organic gardening and moon planting, published by Scribe Publications, VIC.
McFarlane, Annette, Organic Vegetable Gardening, published by ABC Books, Sydney, NSW.


April In Your Patch

The perfect month for chocolate lovers and practical jokers alike, April is also a top time to get into the patch! There is a little bit of rain around, the weather is cooling down, and shed loads of stuff is ready to plant! So, don’t be a bunny, get into gardening this April! Hop to it!

Warm Areas

Frost free or occasional light frosts (North from about Coffs Harbour and all the way across to the west to Geraldton)

  • It’s time to love your leafy greens! Whack in the following this month: Asian greens, lettuce, mizuna, cabbage, silverbeet, rocket and spinach!
  • Keep the bunnies happy and pop in some carrots during April. Check out the Yummy Yards info sheet on carrots for all the tips!
  • Hop into the herb patch with coriander (try a slow bolting variety if it’s still warm), parsley, lemon grass, chamomile and oregano.
  • Stick in some spuds… home grown is easy, and incredibly rewarding. The potato page is here!
  • Go veggie crazy with artichoke, beetroot, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cauliflower, tomatoes, chilli, garlic and radish.
  • If you are in the tropical north (anywhere north of Rocky) you could try some cucumber, pumpkin, sweet corn, squash, tomatoes, sweet potatoes and zucchinis.
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser, is perfect for giving them a kick start as they establish. Apply to the soil early in the morning and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • Pretty up the patch with these flowering fancies – marigolds, sunflowers and pansies, cornflowers, violas, snapdragons, stock, verbena and lavender (non-invasive varieties of course!). Popping these in around your veggies will give some colour and interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
  • Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year, try millet, oats, lupins or field peas. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, as a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering at this time of year… don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose a sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!

Cool to Cold Areas

Low temperatures for extended periods of time (all of Tasmania, most of Victoria, the southern highlands of NSW, the ACT and a tiny southern bit of SA)

  • There is still a whole heap of things you can pop in the patch at this time of year. Tasty herbs in the ‘burbs that are ready to roll include our old favourite, coriander. You could give mint and lemon balm a go as well, but be careful to contain it, otherwise it can take over!
  • Try these tasty wonders into your Yummy Yard this month: Chinese cabbage, most Asian Greens, spinach, rocket, broccoli, spring onions, asparagus, celery, endive, squash, onions, silverbeet, leeks and lettuce. Don’t be a bunny, remember to plant some carrots during April!
  • Set aside a bit of space and pop in an artichoke! These are gorgeous additions to the patch, look amazing, and taste pretty good too!
  • Add some colour and movement to the patch, and pop in some of these little pretties- dianthus, cornflower, pansy, viola, Echinacea, stock, verbena and lupins. Having these around your veggies will give some interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose a low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Green manure crops, including oats, wheat, fava beans and field peas are good to go now… improve that dormant veggie patch, and get ready for next seasons heavy feeding plants!
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser, is perfect for the seedlings you’ve just popped in. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering at this time of year… don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!

 Temperate Zones

Occasional winter frosts (pretty much the rest of Australia, most of the inland, some areas of Victoria, most of SA and the southern area of WA)

  • Top time to plant in this part of the world, especially now that is has cooled down a bit! Why not try cabbage, Asian greens, lettuce, rocket, tatsoi, spring onions, spinach, carrots, celery, cauliflower, broad beans, leek, onions, radish, turnips and swedes.
  • It’s time to get happy with herbs, so try some parsley, basil, coriander (try a slow bolting variety if it’s still pretty warm), rosemary, marjoram and thyme. You could give mint and lemon balm a go as well, but be careful to contain them as they can take over!
  • Why not try some lovely flowering stuff in your patch as well, like: cornflower, calendula, dianthus, pansies, viola, snapdragons, stock, nasturtium, verbena and marigolds. These guys are great at attracting pollinators and beneficial insects to your patch, and I reckon they look tops as well.
  • Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year try fava bean, field pea, oats and wheat. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, for a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose a low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings shoved in this month. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering at this time of year… don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!

Of course, this is just a rough guide, and many of you will find your situation varies from the above listing, due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather (Mother Nature does like to keep us on our toes) and garden type.

April is often a time that we overindulge, and often end up regretting it! Same deal with our Yummy Yards… don’t overfeed and over-fertilise at this time of year, while your plants may look as though they’re enjoying the extra food, you are probably doing more harm than good.


May In Your Patch

While the southern parts of Australia have donned winter pyjamas and flannelette sheets, the northern states are still revelling in warm, and mostly sunny autumn days. Regardless of the conditions in your little patch of paradise, there is still loads to do in May in your patch. Get set for those produce plants that need the cooler weather to grow.

May sees a lot of Australia experience the first damaging affects of frost, so why not spend cold or rainy days in the shed making some nice little frost covers from shade cloth offcuts? A couple of old garden stakes, some nails and a bit of (not too) hard yakka will see these covers ready to go when the temperature plummets. Your seedlings will thank you for it!

Cool to Cold Areas

Low temperatures for extended periods of time (all of Tasmania, most of Victoria, the southern highlands of NSW, the ACT and a tiny southern bit of SA)

  • It’s almost time for bare rooted fruit trees, so start preparing beds now;
    • Lots of lovely rich organic matter, a bit of moisture and some mulch will see the soil absolutely gorgeous by the time your trees are ready to go in!
    • Have a think about what tree varieties you are after, you may need to do some research into the best supplier. Especially if you are after an heirloom or unusual variety.
  • Give Brassicas a blast this month, and pop the following into your patch:
    • broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. Plant some sage with these guys as a great, caterpillar and moth-repelling companion!
  • By putting in peas and broad beans now, you are giving them the winter to extend their roots deep. This means that when the weather does start getting warmer and the frosts disappear you are ahead of the game.  Radish, Swedes, turnips and spinach will also crop well if planted now. Don’t forget spring onions either this month.
  • Set aside a bit of space and pop in an artichoke! These are gorgeous additions to the patch, look amazing and taste pretty good too!
  • Add some colour and movement to the patch and pop in some pretties;
    •  dianthus, cornflower, pansy, viola, verbena and lupins. Having these around your veggies will give some interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. Mulch to a depth of about 7cm after watering the patch. Keep mulch clear of plant stem, especially young seedlings. Choose a low environmental impact, locally sourced mulch that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Green manure crops, including oats, wheat, faba beans and field peas are good to go now… improve that dormant veggie patch, and get ready for next seasons heavy feeding plants!
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect for the seedlings you’ve just popped in. Apply to the soil early in the morning and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • Weeds run rampant this time of year.  Cut down the competition between your produce plants and these space invaders. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!   Try making a weed tea to feed your winter crops.
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering at this time of year….don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!
  • Cold days mean a bit of shed time… why not build yourself a nice blackboard for the shed, to keep track of what has been planted in your patch where and when? This makes crop rotation a load easier, and allows you to keep track of feeding times and dates, what worked, what didn’t and what’s happening in the veggie garden.

Temperate Areas

Occasional winter frosts (pretty much the rest of Australia, most of the inland, some areas of Victoria, most of SA and the southern area of WA)

  • Still some good planting time left in this part of the world, so pop in some Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli. Peas and broad beans can also go in, as well as radish, turnips, swedes and spinach.
  • It’s time to get happy with herbs, so try some chamomile and lemon grass. You could give mint and lemon balm a go as well, but be careful to contain them as they can take over!
  • Why not try some lovely flowering stuff in your patch as well, like: cornflower, calendula, dianthus, pansies, viola, snapdragons, stock, ageratum and marigolds. These guys are great at attracting pollinators and beneficial insects to your patch, and the flowers look good as well.
  • Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year try faba bean, field pea, oats and wheat. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, for a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!
  • Bare rooted fruit tree time is almost upon us, so start preparing beds for these guys now.
    • Lots of lovely rich organic matter, a bit of moisture and some mulch will see the soil absolutely gorgeous by the time your trees are ready to go in!
    • Have a think about what tree varieties you are after, you may need to do some research into the best supplier. Especially if you are after a heirloom or unusual variety.
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. Mulch to a depth of about 7cm after watering the patch. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose a low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings shoved in this month. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.
  • Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering at this time of year….don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!

Warm Areas

Frost free or occasional light frosts (North from about Coffs Harbour and all the way across to the west to Geraldton)

  • Time to plant some winter wonders – think about some leeks, beetroot, celery, lettuce, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, turnips, onions, kale, kohl rabi, spinach and silverbeet.
  • Give peas a chance this May; they are a top addition to any patch. Just keep them away from onions and garlic.
  • Herb it up with lemon grass, spring onions, chamomile, thyme, mint, rosemary and lemon balm. Why not try the lemon balm in a pot around the outdoor area? It will stop it spreading, and keep away mozzies!
  • Stick in some potatoes, home grown is easy, and incredibly rewarding. The potato page is here! Don’t forget about sweet potatoes, they are great fun to grow as well!
  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser, is perfect for giving them a kick start as they establish. Apply to the soil early in the morning and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet. Don’t forget to give the fruit trees a bit of a feed as well (particularly paw paw).
  • Pretty up the patch with these flowering fancies- marigolds, lupins, pansies, cornflowers, violas, snapdragons, stock, verbena and lavender (non-invasive varieties of course!). Popping these in around your veggies will give some colour and interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!
  • Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year, try millet, oats, lupins or field peas. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, as a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!
  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering at this time of year… don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!
  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. Mulch to a depth of about 7cm after watering the patch. Keep mulch clear of plant stems… especially young seedlings. Choose sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.
  • Weeding is an awesome job to do at this time of year. Cut down the competition between your tasty treats and these space invaders, and tidy up your patch. It may sound tedious, but it’s incredibly rewarding!

Of course, this is just a rough guide, and many of you will find your situation varies from the above due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather (Mother Nature does like to keep us on our toes) and garden type.

 


June in Your Patch

Ok, it’s official, winter is upon us. And while it may seem easier to curl up on the couch with a cup of tea and a good book, it is the perfect time to get amongst it in the patch! There is a sense of hibernation for a lot of us but wherever you are in this nation it’s time to don the boots and get to it.

Warm Areas

Frost free or occasional light frosts (North from about Coffs Harbour and all the way across to the west to Geraldton)

  • Time to plant some winter crops – think about some leeks, rocket, beetroot, celery, lettuce (oak leaf), broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, onions, kale, kohl rabi, spinach and silverbeet.

  • Pop in some coriander and chamomile… perfect for warming winter curries and cups of tea!

  • Stick in some spuds, home grown is easy, and incredibly rewarding.  Don’t forget about sweet potatoes, they are great fun to grow as well!

  • There are a load of fruity favourites ready to go in, including kiwifruits and figs! Remember that kiwi fruits need to cross pollinate, so ensure you pick up one of each sex so that they can cross pollinate.

  • Nuts such as pistachio or pecan can also be planted. Beautiful trees in their own right, these nuts are number one in the garden!

  • A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect for giving plants a kick start as they establish. Apply to the soil early in the morning and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet. Don’t forget to give the fruit trees a bit of a feed as well (particularly paw paw).

  • Much needed at this time of year is colour.  Marigolds, lupins, pansies, violas, phlox, verbena and lavender (non-invasive varieties of course!). Popping these in around your veggies will give some colour and interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!

  • Consider a green manure crop to add some life and love to an overworked patch. At this time of year, try millet, oats, lupins or field peas. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, as a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!

  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering at this time of year….don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!

  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems, especially young seedlings. Choose sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down. Also look for one that has done the lest amount of travel to get to you.

  • Weeding is still needed at this time of year. Most plant growth has slowed down though so it will not have to happen as often. But it also means that it is also a time of year to try and remove as many competitors as possible before the weather starts warming up again.

Cool to Cold Areas

Low temperatures for extended periods of time (all of Tasmania, most of Victoria, the southern highlands of NSW, the ACT and a tiny southern bit of SA)

  • You should start seeing bare rooted fruit and deciduous trees starting to appear in your local nursery. This is the cheapest and easiest way to purchase. The stress is less for the tree as it is dormant.  Pick trees with a nice shape, and don’t forget to prune them back before you plant them out (best thing to do is ask the local nursery to do it for you). Remember to make sure you have the correct pollinators to ensure a good crop. Some stone fruit trees will not fruit until they have been in the ground for a few years. So be patient.

  • Give Brassica’s a place in your patch, pop in the following: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. Plant some sage with these guys as a great, caterpillar and moth-repelling companion!

  • For plants that will settle in over winter, so that when spring comes along, they will go gang busters are: peas, beans, radish, Swedes, turnips and spinach. Oh, and some spring onions would go a treat this month as well.

  • Set aside a bit of space and pop in an artichoke! These are gorgeous additions to the patch, look amazing, and taste pretty good too!

  • Plant some rhubarb crowns. Set aside some space in the patch.

  • Add some colour and movement to the patch, and pop in some of these little pretties- dianthus, cornflower, pansy, viola, verbena and lupins. Having these around your veggies will give some interest to the patch, and act as beneficial insect attractors!

  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems, especially young seedlings. Choose low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down. Also look for one that has done the lest amount of travel to get to you.

  • Green manure crops, including oats, wheat, faba beans and field peas are good to go now. Improve that nutrient deficient veggie patch, and get ready for next seasons heavy feeding plants!

  • A seaweed tea, or any low environmental impact liquid fertiliser are perfect for the seedlings you’ve just popped in. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.

  • Weeding is still needed at this time of year. Most plant growth has slowed down, so it will not have to happen as often. But it also means that it is also a time of year to try and remove as many competitors as possible before the weather starts warming up again.

  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering, don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!

  • Cold days mean a bit of shed time… why not build yourself a nice blackboard for the shed, to keep track of what has been planted in your patch where and when? This makes crop rotation a load easier, and allows you to keep track of feeding times and dates, what worked, what didn’t and what’s happening in the veggie garden.

Temperate Zones

Occasional winter frosts (pretty much the rest of Australia, most of the inland, some areas of Victoria, most of SA and the southern area of WA)

  • Great time to plant in the temperate zones, so pop in some Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli. Peas and beans can also go in, as well as radish, turnips, Swedes and spinach.

  • It’s time to get happy with herbs, so try some chamomile and lemon grass. You could give mint and lemon balm a go as well, but be careful to contain them as they can take over.

  • Why not try some lovely flowering stuff in your patch as well, like: cornflower, calendula, dianthus, pansies, viola, snapdragons, stock, ageratum and marigolds. These guys are great at attracting pollinators and beneficial insects to your patch, and I reckon they look tops as well.

  • You should start seeing bare rooted fruit and deciduous trees starting to appear in your local nursery. This is the cheapest and easiest way to purchase. The stress is less for the tree as it is dormant.  Pick trees with a nice shape, and don’t forget to prune them back before you plant them out (best thing to do is ask the local nursery to do it for you). Remember to make sure you have the correct pollinators to ensure a good crop. Some stone fruit trees will not fruit until they have been in the ground for a few years. So be patient.

  • Consider a green manure crop to add some nutrients back into your patch, especially before planting heavy feeders in spring. At this time of year try faba bean, field pea, oats and wheat. This will improve your soil incredibly, and, for a bit of forward planning, you’ll find it well worth the effort!

  • Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds, especially important for weed suppression at this time of year. A hot tip is to mulch after watering the patch, to a depth of about 7cm. Keep mulch clear of plant stems, especially young seedlings. Choose low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down.

  • Plants feel the need for a feed at this time of year. A seaweed tea or low environmental impact liquid fertiliser is perfect, especially for the seedlings planted this month. Apply to the soil early in the morning, and in the concentrations mentioned on the packet.

  • Weeding is still needed at this time of year. Most plant growth has slowed down, so it will not have to happen as often. But it also means that it is also a time of year to try and remove as many competitors as possible before the weather starts warming up again.

  • Water smarter at this time of year. Water first thing in the morning, and instead of quickie irrigation, a nice, deep drink a couple of times a week is far more beneficial! Always check soil moisture before watering, don’t waste your precious drinking water if Mother Nature has already done all the hard work for you!

Of course, this is just a rough guide, and many of you will find your situation varies from the above listing, due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather (Mother Nature does like to keep us on our toes) and garden type.

Information sources:
Bagnall, Lyn, Easy organic gardening and moon planting, published by Scribe Publications, VIC.
McFarlane, Annette, Organic Vegetable Gardening, published by ABC Books, Sydney, NSW.


July In Your Patch

When you look outside this time of year the last thing you feel like doing is standing out in the cold, wet and windy weather, especially if you live in the cooler areas. Don’t let this put you off. There is so much to do in the garden and a lot more to do in the garden shed. Get off the couch and put on the thermals, the beanie, a coat and your gumboots and warm yourself up with some winter garden love.

Of course, the following is just a rough guide, and many of you will find your situation varies from the above listing due to microclimates created in your garden, location in relation to your nearest major city, extremes of weather and garden type. But the one thing that remains the same for all zones and regions is this: improve your soil by adding organic matter, mulch and no matter the season, we can all garden more sustainably all year round.

Tool Time
Why not head out to the shed, and sharpen, clean, oil and maintain your garden tools. Sounds tedious, but it’s really rewarding, and will save you cash in the long run. Practicing tool hygiene will prevent the spread of disease.

Mulch your beds
Top up mulch on your veggie patches, herb gardens and ornamental beds. Choose sustainable, low environmental impact mulch, one that will enrich your soil as it breaks down. If in the southern states try to avoid Sugar Cane as it would have a high carbon footprint due to transport.

Green Manure
Green manure crops are good to go now... improve that dormant veggie patch. In cooler to temperate areas you can use crops like like faba beans or field peas and for warmer areas try mung beans. Remember to chop and drop them before they flower.

Pruning & Weeding
Pruning and weeding is a great job to do at this time of year. Deciduous fruit trees love a big old haircut now, except your apricot!

Cool to Cold Areas

Low temperatures for extended periods of time (all of Tasmania, most of Victoria, the southern highlands of NSW, the ACT and a tiny southern bit of SA)

It’s bare root season! Get your deciduous fruit trees in now, including apples, pears, plums, peaches and nectarines. Deciduous exotic trees can also be planted now.

There’s still a bit happening in the veggie patch, especially if you love your brassicas, you could try spinach, carrots, sweet peas, broad beans, coriander and peas.

Temperate Areas

Occasional winter frosts (pretty much most of the inland, some areas of Victoria, most of SA and the southern area of WA)

There’s not too much happening in the veggie patch, but you could try lettuce, celery, broad beans, Jerusalem artichokes (put them in a pot or they can take over), potato, garlic, radish and spinach.

Many ornamental and fruit trees are ready to plant now, so try figs, pistachios, bare-rooted roses and vines (non-invasive of course)

Warm Areas

Frost free or occasional light frosts (North from about Coffs Harbour and all the way across to the west to Geraldton)

Plant out some tasty winter treats, like Chinese cabbage, rocket, silverbeet, mizuna and tatsoi.

In warmer areas pop in beans, sweet corn, leek, pumpkins, tomato and watermelon.

You can also plant some some coriander, chamomile and nasturtiums in the herb patch.

Many ornamental and fruit trees are keen to get in the ground now. Try figs, pistachios, bare-rooted roses and vines (non-invasive of course)