Gardening to Nurture the Planet - Videos
A series of short gardening videos for the low-down on everything from worm farming and composting to saving water, reducing your food miles and growing incredible edibles. Whether you’re a first time gardener or a seasoned green thumb, these bite-sized, fast-paced, funny little flicks will get you growing in no time. You’ll find it all in these compact episodes of gardening wisdom. Gardening videos like you've never seen before.
Episode 1 - Lord of the Bins (Part 1)
Lord of the Bins is a hard-hitting, 2 part expose of the relationships in your compost bin. In part one Helen reveals the uncensored story of decomposition that's smouldering in the backyard compost bin. Capture carbon, improve your soil, feed a worm, reduce household waste and discover why a hot and healthy relationship with your compost is an essential part of being a planet conscious gardener.
Episode 2 - Lord of the Bins (Part 2)
Things really start to warm up in part two as we delve deeper into the compost heap. Helen shares her own special family recipe for sweet smelling compost, no science degree required. Find out what makes your compost sing and what should go in the rubbish bin, it’s all about the balance in this relationship. Who would have thought that reducing your carbon footprint could be so steamy!
Episode 3 - Mulch Ado about Nothing
Wrap your soil up in a blanket of mulch to conserve water use, add nutrients, suppress weeds and enhance habitat. But what to use where? Meander through a multitude of mulches with Helen as she show us what to goes where, what’s sustainable, what’s not and how to avoid common problems when mulching. From straw, to stone, to living mulches, this flick makes mulch ado about mulching and will have your garden beds snug and warm in no time.
Episode 4 - Renter's Guide To Sustainable Gardening
If you only ever venture into your garden for a quick hack before property inspection, then this film's for you. Find out how to grow plants in a pot, up a wall, in a shoe and on a budget... without jeopardizing your bond. Create a moveable vegie patch and cultivate much more than couch potatoes. Tips and tricks for low cost, temporary and mobile gardening that all gardeners can use. There's even something for the indoor gardener in this priceless pic.
Episode 5 - We Love Tools
The behind-the-scenes tour of where it all happens – the toolshed. Get to know the colourful characters who make your garden dream a reality.
Episode 6 - Grow Your Own Incredible Edibles
Turn your food miles into metres with a backyard full of brag-worthy produce all home grown by you. Produce in pots or bountiful plots, Helen makes it easy to grow fruit, herbs and vegies no matter where you live. Prepare and mulch your soil, planting from seed and seedling, companion planting, organic pest controls and more. Everything you need to know to get growing your own.
Episode 7 - Trees, not just for hugging
Think like a Koala and take a look at trees from a whole new perspective. The home of our famous Aussie icon can also add significant value to our homes, reducing energy use, improving air flow, building soil health, and more. Our friendly neighbourhood koala (who resembles a certain horticulturalist we know), gets enthusiastic about the many sustainable benefits of trees at home and how to maximize their value in the backyard. And if you have never seen a koala ride a bike, watch on...
Episode 8 - Weeds, not in my backyard
Prevent a triffid-style invasion of the worst kinds of weeds. Not just in your backyard but into the bush and beyond. Be alert and be very alarmed!
Episode 9 - Return of the weeds
So they’ve made it past your defences and past your bio-controls. They are running rampant threatening to take over. Fear not, help is at hand with these tried and tested and very sustainable garden weed remedies.
Episode 10 - Wheeley good green waste solutions
Ever felt like the third wheel? Now you know how the green bin feels. It’s here for good and not for evil, so treat it right and feed it nice. One of our most misunderstood and intriguing bins.
Episode 11 - Tank Girl
You are about to embark on a relationship that will be long and lasting. And as there is no ‘d-i-v-o-r-c-e’ in tank world, let us help you get it right the first time. Relationship training for you and your tank that will bring everlasting bliss and satisfaction.
Episode 12 - OMG I’m going grey!
Just be thankful you’ve got any water at all, even if it has been around the block once or twice before. But treat it with caution and ensure that you follow the ‘Do’s and Don’ts’ of greywater use to ensure happy soil, plants and neighbours!
Episode 13 - DIY water tank
So you want to store water but you don’t have the big bucks for a glamorous tank? Fear not, you can still have water. Learn how to turn and old wheelie bin into a portable water carrier. So ingenious!
Episode 14 - Don’t be a drip!
Take the irritation out of irrigation and go sub-surface. It’s fast, efficient and it makes the most of every precious drop. Go on your garden will love you for it!
Episode 15 - Wicking beds
Loved by many, enjoyed by few. The ultimate 'How-to' guide for creating and enjoying your very own garden wicking bed. And once the plants have been tucked in for the season, blissful self-watering takes over.
Episode 16 - How to be a good parent to your worms
Parenting worms demands a certain amount of attention to their voracious vegan appetites. However they are rarely seen and constantly produce wondrous liquid fertilisers and worm castings. Really, like any family member, they're more than worth their weight in gold.
Catching and Storing Water with Contour Banks
Catching and storing water with contour banks is an important aspect of creating a garden which contributes to a sustainable planet.
Author Jane Frost from Jane Grows Garden Rooms in south-east Queensland writes:
When I started studying permaculture and sustainable gardening, I thought managing water was just about having rainwater tanks, a dam and conserving use in the home. My understanding of the concept of catching and storing water was simplistic. Now I feel I have a much better understanding and I have applied this new understanding to not only benefit my garden but to also improve the local ecosystem and manage what I “send downstream”. In managing water effectively I am also managing nutrients more effectively.
The greatest change in my garden has come about with the building of contour banks. This has helped me to slow the water on my sloping block when it rains and also to capture nutrients that previously ended up in our creek and ultimately our local river system and potentially the sea. It was a relatively simple process to build these banks. I also used elements of hügelkultur to make sure my banks were fertile and ready to feed the plants that would straddle them.
What is a contour bank?
A contour bank is an earthen structure that follows the ridges or contours on a cultivated slope. They are used to channel and slow water as it heads downhill. In the process, sediments and nutrients tend to build up on the uphill side of the structures.
What is Hügelkultur?
Hügelkultur is a German word associated with the practice of building raised garden beds filled with wood. The wood under the soil slowly decomposes releasing nutrients into the soil. The wood also acts like a sponge holding water for plants to access as they need it.
Contour Banks on My Property
We started by laying down old wood and sticks along a contour downhill from our chicken pen. Next we emptied the compost bins on top of the wood and also added manure purchased from a nearby horse farm. After this we used a small excavator to cover the pile generously with purchased topsoil. This was necessary as the slope has been grazed in the past and very little topsoil remained on the property when we purchased it. The final step was planting. I chose a native olive (Olea paniculata), a native elderberry (Sambucus australisica), anise myrtle (Syzigium anisatum), bay tree (Laurus nobilis), Bolwarra or native guava (Eupomatia laurina) and peanut tree (Sterculia quadrifida). Eventually these will form the canopy of our garden. I then scattered a permaculture mix of pak choi, radish, rocket and peas. These would be both for harvest and green mulch.
When the first heavy rains came we held our breath and observed. Success! The water reached the contour bank, slowed and pooled before slowly draining down the slope. The plants were thriving, apart from the Anise Myrtle which would eventually perish and be replaced with a Blood Orange Tree. I have collected some seeds from the mix I sowed, but also allowed it to self-seed. Two years later we are on our third crop from these plants.
About six months after the first contour bank was built, we built another about three metres below the first. It has been planted with mango trees, stone fruit trees and a lime tree as well as green mulch and cucurbits. It is growing as well as the first and showing a good capture of sediment.
In the coming months we are planning to put in a third downhill from the first two. Both contour banks show signs of excellent water retention and nutrient capture. I have not had to fertilise either bank and we are now getting regular harvests of tomatoes, cucumbers, nasturtium leaves and flowers, pumpkins and elderberries, as well as the crops from the permaculture mix.
The banks are alive with butterflies, bees and other bugs. I refuse to control the pests and take heart in the Butcher Birds, Kookaburras, Eastern Bearded Dragons and frogs that I regularly see snacking in that part of the garden. We are happy to check our salads for caterpillars and to eat holey leaves if it means a healthier crop and a contribution to our local ecosystem. The integrated crops are working well to isolate the rare occurrence of disease and prevent it impacting the whole crop of a particular species.
The contour banks almost take care of themselves. Of course, the fertility of the soil means that I have to manage the weeds and our climate means that we need to water sometimes, but the organic nature of the gardens is pleasing and rewarding. When we do water we use hoses attached to a fire pump in the dam. This water is full of nutrients (and sediment after rain) and it makes sense to return those nutrients to the slope rather than letting them flow downstream to impact on the water quality of our local river.
All in all contour banks have become an integral part of catching and storing water on our slope. With flowers, vegetables and trees sharing the space, it is a source of food
and joy for our whole family as we witness the different species of plants, insects and animals benefiting from managing one of our most important resources.
After all, water is life.
Irrigation Systems - Video
Take the irritation out of irrigation and go sub-surface. It’s fast, efficient and it makes the most of every precious drop. Go on your garden will love you for it!
Keeping our Stormwater Clean
With the heavy rain we have been having in most states, the importance of site planning, not just at a commercial level but also at a residential home handy person level to protect our waterways is crucial. Litter, cigarette butts, excess nutrient, chemicals and sediment wash from our roofs, roads and other non-permeable surfaces down stormwater drains and this affects the health of our rivers and creeks and ultimately polluting the bays and oceans.
Site Planning
Where is the lowest point on the site?
Water always runs to the lowest point. It will affect where you put stockpiled material. It should always be stored as far away from the lowest point as possible.
Where should you build your sediment control fences?
Sediment control fences should be built on the lowest side or sides of the site Gravel socks should also be fitted to nearby stormwater pits.
Retain as much of the existing vegetation as possible.
Rope or fence off the areas you are going to retain. Retaining the vegetation including trees and grassed areas help to prevent damage to the surface of the site later on.
Keep litter contained on site.
Many building site contain both building rubble and other forms of rubbish spread across them. Bins with lids should be kept on site and should be emptied on a regular basis. Erecting fences around the site will also keep litter from being carried off site by wind or water.
Rainwater & Tanks
A rainwater conservation system involves collecting rainwater from the roof and storing it in a tank for later use as irrigation water. Recycling rainwater for use on garden beds is an excellent way of reducing household water that must otherwise be purchased from water companies. Due to the fact that a considerable amount of household water goes on the garden, this is a great way of saving money whilst conserving the amount of water in our storage dams.
Using rainwater in the garden
Rainwater can be applied from the tank to the garden by any of the following methods:
- Gravity-fed hose irrigation
- With a watering can - most useful to water pots and containers
- Pumped from the tank to irrigation systems within the garden
Will a system work at my house?
The type of rainwater system you choose will be determined by your water use requirements, the space you have available for a tank, the collection area of your roof, and the cost of each system.
For a small or inner city garden where tank size is limited, a tank connected to a gravity-fed hose and supply for hand watering is most appropriate. The minimum tank size recommend for use with a pump-fed irrigation system is 2000 litres. Mains water can be linked into the system and accessed by an automated switch-over mechanism, as a backup water source if tank water runs out.
Choosing a tank
To calculate the water that a tank is able to capture off your roof multiply the length by the width of the roof and then multiply this figure by the amount of rainfall over a particular time.
For example, Melbourne averages approximately 50 mm of rainfall each month, on an average rainy day (4.5 mm of rainfall) a roof of 150m2 will catch 675 litres of water. In order to collect all of this water, your tank will have to be at least this big. During the wetter months of the year, you may not use your tank at all, in this instance the same size roof has the potential to catch more than 7,500 litres over the month.
Roof area (m2) = roof length x width
Water captured (litres) = roof area x rainfall over time period
Below is a guide to how far particular sized tanks will go when full.
1700 L rainwater tank
- 120 metres of Gravity-fed dripline (8 litre per hour drippers) for 30 minutes
- Hand-held garden hose
- Pumped sprinkler system for 50 minutes
2250 L rainwater tank
- 190 metres of Gravity-fed dripline (8 litre per hour drippers) for 30 minutes
- Hand-held garden hose
- Pumped sprinkler system for 65 minutes
4500 L rainwater tank
- 350 metres of Gravity-fed dripline for (8 litre per hour drippers) for 30 minutes
- Hand-held garden hose
- Pumped sprinkler system for 130 minutes
For tanks that carry 10,000 litres or more we recommend that you seek the assistance of a qualified staff member or professional consultant to tailor a system to suit your water needs.
Lawn sprinklers can use at least 800 - 1200 litres of water in a week. It is not practical to use tank water to irrigate a lawn unless you have a large tank. Also lawns usually require watering during the driest part of the year when the tank is least likely to be full.
Other Considerations
- Check with your local water authority on watering restrictions as sprinklers may not be used in some areas of Australia. Click here for a list of Australian Water Links.
- Suitable site: aesthetic, space required, and access to supply from stormwater and overflow drainage point
- Potential for gravity feed or the need for a pump
- Installation requirements
- Stable base
The range of tanks available is ever increasing, systems are available that can go underneath the house or decking, under the ground, become a wall or are ornamental in their own right. If you have looked at installing a tank in the past but found that nothing was suitable, you may find that today's range might include something that is perfect for you.
Installation
Please note that many rainwater systems require a licenced plumber to install them.
Rebates
Many Australian Water Authorities have introduced a rebate system for rainwater tanks, greywater systems, irrigation systems and mulches. Click here for a list of Australian Water Links.
Which Tank Should I Get?
As summer becomes a distant memory and the weather begins to cool, many of us have been privy to an unusual phenomenon... rain! With all the wet stuff about, and some governments altering their water restrictions, we do tend to forget about water conservation and rain water harvesting... but, let me assure you, this is THE time to think about it, not just in the warmer months! In fact, autumn and winter are excellent times to seriously consider installing rainwater tanks. If you have a rainwater tank in place now, think of all the H2O you’ll have ready to go come spring ... it’s kind of like a 'layby lifeline' for your patch!
But with the huge range of tanks out there, heading out to buy a tank can be incredibly daunting. Luckily, SGA have come to the rescue, and have put together a 'Sustainable Shoppers Guide' to help you make the right rainwater decision for your place. So here is a swag of information on a number of commonly used, currently available rainwater tanks and their features, be they good, bad and ugly. Bear in mind that new products are released all the time, so, if the tank you are interested in ain't on the list, just let us know.
Oh, and remember, with all tanks, it is recommended that you get a licensed plumber to install your tanks... it’s the only way to claim any Government rebates on the purchase price of your water holding wonder!
Buyers Guide to Tanks
Bladder Tanks
Size/Capacity Range: 300L – 20,000L
What's it made of? Flexible re-inforced PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) geomembrane
What's the deal? Essentially, bladder tanks are like large, water filled wine casks. These inflatable tanks are designed to be located on top of the ground, under the floors or decks of houses, and are essentially long and thin, perfect for sitting between stumps and foundations. Many of these types of tanks are enclosed in a steel or metal frame (a good thing!), and storage capacity can be increased by installing a number of these tanks in sequence (space permitting of course).
Why we like it: They are fairly cost effective, and are more easily transported from one location to another. Bladder tanks are also a great option for people who have difficulties with access for larger, rigid tanks (bladders can be rolled up and carried through the house!). They slot away nicely 'out of sight' under the house, which has the added bonus of making it easier to direct downpipe water to them.
Why we don't: Look, they are pretty tough, but they are definitely not unbreakable (or untearable), and you run the risk of voiding the warranty on a few brands of these if they are exposed to direct sunlight too long. All of them need an under house clearance of 750mm as a bare minimum, and, whatever you do, make sure that the tank is NOT blocking access to utilities (like S bends and underfloor piping), otherwise you’ll need to empty the tank to fix the problem! Oh, and for some reason, kids love to bounce on these... it’s kind of like a water filled jumping castle, so some serious kid-control is required with these!
Environmental footprint and overall sustainability: Like all tanks, it’s important to have a look at the warranty period. Many bladder tanks have fairly limited warranty lengths (about 3 yrs), which isn’t great, and means there is the potential for a great deal of PVC to end up in landfill in a relatively short space of time. This is made more significant by the fact that PVC can take a really, really long time to degrade, and even then it just 'granulates' (that is, big bits become smaller bits). In fact, PVC is often regarded as a contaminant in many waste streams, and less than 1% of PVC is recycled, or able to be recycled. The manufacturing process for PVC is another issue altogether, with key ingredients involved in the manufacture of PVC being oil and chlorine... two products with really big environmental footprints. It has to be said, while these tanks are cheap, the long term cost to the planet may far outweigh the initial savings you make.
Poly (Plastic) Tanks
Size/Capacity Range: 600L – 50,000L
What's it made of? Food Grade High Density Polyethylene (HDPE)
What's the deal? In a nutshell, these tanks are... well... plastic tanks! Available in a massive range of colours, shapes and sizes, these tanks are essentially the plastic equivalent to the traditional Aussie corrugated tank. There are a load of companies manufacturing these tanks around the place, both in Australia and overseas, so be sure to ask where your tank was made, and what the warranty period is.
Why we like it: The flexibility in colour and size of these poly tanks is astonishing, and there is one available to suit just about every property. Don’t think you can come around to a round tank? Gone are the days of a big round tank taking up valuable space in the yard, poly tanks are now available as flat, 'wall' type tanks, designed to run along property boundaries, or along the side of the house, shed or garage. Carefully read installation instructions BEFORE placing one of these tanks, it’s not as easy as you think! The price of some of these tanks is pretty decent as well, although round tanks will always be cheaper than a wall type tank in the same capacity.
Why we don't: While a great number of these poly tanks can be really cost effective, if the price seems TOO cheap, it probably is. Some unscrupulous operators are flogging inferior foreign tanks, manufactured to a different (much lower) food grade level than Aussie made tanks. Inferior plastic moulding + two tonnes of water = potential disaster! Read warranties carefully with plastic tanks, and, for your peace of mind, as well as the well being of our economy, buy an Aussie made poly tank with a nice long warranty!
Unlike bladder tanks, poly tanks need a base specially prepared before they are installed. Generally, a crushed rock and sand base is recommended for the round poly tanks, while the wall style tanks can normally sit on a flat, stable concrete or tiled base. Freestanding wall tanks often need to be braced to something to prevent them tipping over when full, so check the strength of the bracing structure (eg: the fence or shed) before attaching. The only thing worse that a tank tipping over is one tipping over and taking the shed or fence with it! Oh, and for folks in bushfire areas, an added issue is that plastic tanks do not perform well in the heat of a fire event.
Environmental footprint and overall sustainability: Well, let’s be honest here, HDPE tanks have a pretty negative environmental impact, due to their high embodied energy and the greenhouse gas emissions from the manufacturing process. Non-renewable fossil fuels are used in the manufacture of plastics (including HDPE), which also gives them a bit of a thumbs down. That said, their embodied water (the amount of water used to make them) is pretty low, especially in comparison to some other types of tanks. Can these tanks be recycled at the end of their useful life? Well the jury is still out at the moment, mainly due to the possibility that long exposure to sunlight has the potential to render these tanks un-recyclable. SGA will keep you posted on this as more info and credible research becomes available.
Steel Tanks
Size/Capacity Range: 300L – 20,000L
What's it made of? Corrugated Steel (often lined with a polymer)
What's the deal? These are the quintessential Aussie tank, the corro number that many of us grew up with at Grandad’s farm. They have had a serious facelift in the last few years, and are now available in a range of colours, sizes and even shapes (smaller oblong steel tanks are now available). Although there size range can be somewhat limited, they are a good looking tank, and the range of colours allows them to fit quite nicely into most domestic settings.
Why we like it: In short, these tanks look great! Instead of being hidden away behind the back of the shed, steel tanks can make a great (and useful) feature in gardens. Due to their smaller size, they are easier to manoeuvre, and loads of them come with their own stand, negating any need for preparation of a special base (as long as you place them on a level surface). If you have an awkward space or size requirement, shop around for a local manufacturer who may be able to custom make one of these babies for you!
Why we don't: Like all things steel, these tanks can corrode over time. Smaller sizing means that, in order to be useful, you may need to install a couple of them at once to be a true water wizard. And be warned, they can be fairly expensive when compared to other tank options.
Environmental footprint and overall sustainability: Steel tanks have the lowest environmental impact of any type of modern tank, due to the low embodied energy, greenhouse gas emissions, embodied water and nitrous oxide emissions during manufacture. To be truly sustainable, choose a locally manufactured steel tank, and really cut down on transport related emissions. The planet will thank you for it!!
Concrete Tanks
Size/Capacity Range: 3,700L – 500,000L
What's it made of? Concrete (with internal steel re-inforcement)
What's the deal? They’re big, they’re heavy, they’re (generally) built onsite and they can have a massive capacity... concrete water tanks may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but if you are after big and tough, these guys will do the job.
Why we like it: Then biggest advantage to concrete tanks is generally their larger capacity. Essentially, concrete tanks can be hand built (or pre cast) to just about any size, from about 3,700L to 500,000L... that’s a massive amount of water. Concrete tanks can be installed either underground or above ground (and can be painted to make them look less like concrete). They are wind, vermin, sun, fire and rust proof, and the concrete keeps the water cool, clean and algae free. Often, concrete tanks can be repaired if they are damaged.
Why we don't: Well, admittedly they are pretty ugly, and, even when installed underground, the large access area and tank roof is still quite visible. Being concrete, they are porous and can occasionally crack, allowing tree roots to penetrate and things to go pear shaped! They have a pretty limited warranty period all things considered (about 15 to 20 years), and, if they are to be used for drinking water, they may need to be flushed out several times to get rid of the 'taste' of concrete.
Environmental footprint and overall sustainability: Concrete tanks are generally considered to be a bit of an environmental nightmare, based on a number of lifecycle assessments conducted by respected universities and organisations. For one, concrete tanks are manufactured with both concrete and steel, meaning their inputs are pretty high. In fact, a 5000L concrete tank has about 160kg of steel re-inforcement (and weighs about 2 600kg all up). This means that, of all the commonly available tanks, concrete tanks have the highest embodied water, embodied energy and greenhouse gas emissions. There is often a large environmental impact associated with the transportation of pre-cast concrete tanks, due to their weight and the fact that they cannot be stacked in transit. On the flipside of this, there is the potential to recycle elements of the tank at the end of its useful life, particularly the steel framing.
Stormwater Runoff
Gardening practices have an important influence on the quality of water in our streams, creeks and bays. Australian soils and waterways are generally low in nutrient content, and consequently the organisms living in our waterways have adapted to low nutrient conditions. If nutrient levels increase above normal, Australian aquatic plants and animals can be affected in several ways.
Nutrients
Sources of nutrients in our waterways related to gardening can come from:
- Plant matter (cuttings, leaves, grass clippings)
- Garden fertilisers
- Ash from fires
When it rains a certain amount of water is absorbed into your garden, but a significant amount ends up in our drains and waterways as stormwater runoff. As it moves through your garden, runoff picks up fertilisers and ash and carries plant matter into our waterways. Anything that you sweep into the gutter: leaves, grass clippings etc. washes directly into our waterways via drains. The plant matter rots to release nutrients and utilises oxygen at the same time. Fertilisers sprayed and sprinkled around your garden are picked up in a dissolved state and are readily absorbed by aquatic plants, potentially leading to excess growth and algal blooms.
Too many nutrients in a waterway, particularly nitrogen and phosphorus, can lead to:
1) Excessive Plant Growth: which can lead to the choking of waterbodies. Fluctuations in dissolved oxygen levels can affect oxygen-consuming fish. Reduction of light penetration can affect other plants. If the plants die, this can threaten the survival of planteating fish and other organisms.
2) Blue-green Algal Blooms: although this type of algae (cyanobacteria) occurs naturally in our waterways, excessive nutrients can be a major contributing factor to an outbreak. Many blue-green algae release toxins that can be fatal to wildlife, stock and domestic animals and affect human health.
Toxins
Toxins are substances, which at certain concentrations are poisonous to living things. Some toxins can accumulate hundreds or thousands of times in fish, shellfish and fish-eating birds, even though the concentration in water is not directly toxic or detectable. Toxicants can kill organisms, weaken an organism’s ability to fight disease or interfere with life cycle development and reproduction.
Sources of toxicants in stormwater related to gardening can come from:
- Garden pesticides
- Garden insecticides
- Garden herbicides
- Garden fertilisers
- Treated timbers
Pathogens
Pathogens are microscopic organisms and include viruses, bacterium, fungi and parasites. They are common and widespread with some occurring naturally in soil and water. Pathogens can cause disease in plants, animals and humans. To gauge water quality we measure levels of the bacteria E.coli as an indicator of the presence of human gut pathogens in water.
Sources of E. coli relating to gardening include:
- Garden fertilisers
- Garden manure
Sustainable Gardening Australia asks you to consider chemical alternatives or use low environmental impact chemicals, slow release fertilisers and use only the amount recommended by the manufacturer. Try not to apply these chemicals before heavy rain or on windy days.