Paul McMorran

Sep 182010
 

A rainwater conservation system involves collecting rainwater from the roof and storing it in a tank for later use as irrigation water. Recycling rainwater for use on garden beds is an excellent way of reducing household water that must otherwise be purchased from water companies. Due to the fact that a considerable amount of household water goes on the garden, this is a great way of saving money whilst conserving the amount of water in our storage dams.

Using rainwater in the garden

Rainwater can be applied from the tank to the garden by any of the following methods:

  • Gravity-fed hose irrigation
  • With a watering can – most useful to water pots and containers
  • Pumped from the tank to irrigation systems within the garden

Will a system work at my house?

The type of rainwater system you choose will be determined by your water use requirements, the space you have available for a tank, the collection area of your roof, and the cost of each system.

For a small or inner city garden where tank size is limited, a tank connected to a gravity-fed hose and supply for hand watering is most appropriate. The minimum tank size recommend for use with a pump-fed irrigation system is 2000 litres. Mains water can be linked into the system and accessed by an automated switch-over mechanism, as a backup water source if tank water runs out.

Choosing a tank

To calculate the water that a tank is able to capture off your roof multiply the length by the width of the roof and then multiply this figure by the amount of rainfall over a particular time.

For example, Melbourne averages approximately 50 mm of rainfall each month, on an average rainy day (4.5 mm of rainfall) a roof of 150m2 will catch 675 litres of water. In order to collect all of this water, your tank will have to be at least this big. During the wetter months of the year, you may not use your tank at all, in this instance the same size roof has the potential to catch more than 7,500 litres over the month.

Roof area (m2) = roof length x width

Water captured (litres) = roof area x rainfall over time period

Below is a guide to how far particular sized tanks will go when full.

1700 L rainwater tank

  • 120 metres of Gravity-fed dripline (8 litre per hour drippers) for 30 minutes
  • Hand-held garden hose
  • Pumped sprinkler system for 50 minutes

2250 L rainwater tank

  • 190 metres of Gravity-fed dripline (8 litre per hour drippers) for 30 minutes
  • Hand-held garden hose
  • Pumped sprinkler system for 65 minutes

4500 L rainwater tank

  • 350 metres of Gravity-fed dripline for (8 litre per hour drippers) for 30 minutes
  • Hand-held garden hose
  • Pumped sprinkler system for 130 minutes

For tanks that carry 10,000 litres or more we recommend that you seek the assistance of a qualified staff member or professional consultant to tailor a system to suit your water needs.

Lawn sprinklers can use at least 800 – 1200 litres of water in a week. It is not practical to use tank water to irrigate a lawn unless you have a large tank. Also lawns usually require watering during the driest part of the year when the tank is least likely to be full.

Other Considerations

  • Check with your local water authority on watering restrictions as sprinklers may not be used in some areas of Australia. Click here for a list of Australian Water Links.
  • Suitable site: aesthetic, space required, and access to supply from stormwater and overflow drainage point
  • Potential for gravity feed or the need for a pump
  • Installation requirements
  • Stable base

The range of tanks available is ever increasing, systems are available that can go underneath the house or decking, under the ground, become a wall or are ornamental in their own right. If you have looked at installing a tank in the past but found that nothing was suitable, you may find that today’s range might include something that is perfect for you.

Installation

Please note that many rainwater systems require a licenced plumber to install them.

Rebates

Many Australian Water Authorities have introduced a rebate system for rainwater tanks, greywater systems, irrigation systems and mulches. Click here for a list of Australian Water Links.

Sep 182010
 

When water hits a non-permeable surface it will follow gravity to the lowest point, normally a drain. The water then flows down through the storm water pipes into channels and rivers and streams. In heavy downpours the speed this may occur can be quite rapid causing flash flooding, erosion and great levels of damage. A wide variety of pollutants including oils, fertilisers, pesticides and detergents can be washed into the catchments causing a range of environmental problems. Commonly, toxic blooms arise in our rivers and streams after heavy rain events making them unsafe for the native fauna, pets and humans.

Continue reading »

Sep 112009
 

Escape the mundane uniformity of an artificial vegetative mat and enjoy some of the visual and aromatic delights the natural world has on offer!

Less maintenance

Mowing, edging, fertilising and weeding of a lawn requires more time and maintenance than well chosen ground covers or garden beds / pavers.

A well selected group of ground covers are less prone to pest attack and diseases than a single lawn species.

Less water

A mulched garden bed with well chosen plants requires less water to look good year round than even the toughest lawn species.

Increase biodiversity

Larger garden beds allow for tiered plantings of increasing heights, which in turn creates a greater sense of depth and space to a garden.

Attract native wildlife into your garden with many butterfly, bird and insect attracting varieties available.

Reasons you may not need a lawn at all

  • Shady dry areas under trees
  • Areas unlikely to be walked over
  • Small or awkward areas
  • Areas with significant slopes

Lawn Alternatives

If you like the open feel of a lawn but don’t want the maintenance or water requirements. Consider the following options…

No Traffic

No traffic open spaces allow for some of the greatest flexibility in style and plant choices. Areas that are traditionally difficult to establish lawn perform well with many alternatives. Regions such as under large trees of near eves can be given a new lease of life with the addition of low water and light requiring lawn alternatives.

Light Traffic

In areas of light traffic it is necessary to choose plants that are tolerant of small levels of disturbance. Plants that are used should be flexible low lying. This will allow them to bounce back when trodden on. For Heavy Traffic use the same varieties as those for areas with light traffic, but with the addition of stepping stones.

Meadow “Lawn” areas

A mixture of grass, lilies, wildflowers and ground covers. Don’t mow… often. To encourage flowering and growth of the meadow it is recommended that the area be cut twice a year using a brush cutter. The optimal times to cut the meadow is in early summer after spring flowering and late autumn. The cut material should then be removed and composted.

No Traffic

Variety Position Maintenance requirements Size of area suitable Weed Potential Availability
S = seed
P= pot
V = viro-cell
T= turf
Marjoram Medium Medium Low S, P
Myoporum parvifolium Low Large Low P
Oregano Medium Medium Low S, P
Parthenocissus sikkimensis Medium Large Low P
Prostrate Grevilleas Low Large Low S, P
Prostrate Rosemary Low Medium Low P
Prostrate Sedum varieties Low Small Low P
Sutera Low Small Low P

Light Traffic

Variety Position Maintenance requirements Size of area suitable Weed Potential Availability
S = seed
P= pot
V = viro-cell
T= turf
Convolvulus sabatius Low Medium Low P
Corsican mint Medium Small Medium P
Dwarf Mondo grass Low Medium Low P, V
Dianthus Low Small Low P
Dichondra Medium Medium Low S, P, V
Lawn Chamomile Medium Medium Low S, P
Penny Royal Medium Small Low S, P
Pratia / Isotoma Medium Small Low P
Prostrate pigface Low Large Low S, P
Sagina Medium Small Low P
Scleranthus Medium Small Low P
Thymus varieties Low Medium Low S, P
Viola hederacea Medium Medium Low S, P

Outer “fringe” grassed areas

These are areas of clumping grasses and can border a lawn area. Ideal for people with children and/or dogs.

Suitable species of “fringe” grasses

Festuca glauca
Deschampsia
Carex species
Poa species
Lomandra tinika